Posts by Casey_SS

    If you are talking about the red fenders, you are absolutly correct, these fenders are more of the Sport bike, or bar hopper design, not so much for practical use as they are for cool factor. But they can be adjusted or even cut differently for more coverage as seen by what other customers have done such as @FunCycle or @Shatneyman or even @lrobbi . I have found that now selling almost 40 sets of fenders over the last three months, that the most popular cut or size fender is the "Street fighter", that is our roughly 26" to 28" long fender, the "bobber", like my red ones, is the second most popular at 20" long and the third style was the GT or Grand touring fender, which I no longer sell unless specifically requested becaue the longer fender tends to get damaged much easier and the "street fighter" will not work as well with the 22" or larger wheels and tires and the "bobbers" are the best for the larger or taller wheels or those with air ride.

    Can you provide or tell me in the pictures you sent which one is which by color in the pics like street fighter is the red/white one?


    I want a size that looks good but also stops debris / water from coating the inside of the hood, also the bathtub in the rear

    Pics look great! Thank you


    I see the front area from like 9 o'clock to 2 o'clock portion of the tire is not covered by the fender...


    How much spray off the tire ends up inside the underside of the hood panel? If the fender started around the 9 or 10 o'clock position would that eliminate that?


    Same with the rear fender, having it lower on the front side of the tire maybe almost down to the swing arm, would stop the bathtub from getting so dirty?


    Thanks

    I have the intake as part of the turbo and port fueler.... which is the intake with additional injectors so I'm running 2 injectors per cylinder.


    It's amazing the power... and the tune still needs to be refined because I'm getting so pretty rich AFR's under full throttle... like 9.5 / 10
    Once the tune gets tweeked it'll be even faster.

    Lets see how many of each are actually out there?


    Seems like when you try to find out how many from each manufacturer there are, nobody knows.


    So lets find out, please select your turbo.
    If you have one or multiple ( @rabtech ) please post what you've had and your impression of each.

    Interesting article regarding tire size: http://www.onallcylinders.com/…/14/drag-slicks-traction/


    Probably most people that have gone the route of SC / TC have most likely upgraded their shocks...
    Anybody have a recommendations for setting up JRi 2 way adjustable shocks for click (ride adjustment) as well as height front to rear to have a nice weight transfer, but also to not adversely effect handling in the twisties?


    Would love to know how some of the big boys like @rabtech gets his major muscle motor to hook up?

    I've be scouring around looking for what people consider great combinations of tire / rim to hook that extra power up to the pavement.


    The consensus for tire seems to be the NITTO 555 as listed in this poll


    What size rims fit well and perform well for the people that have added the extra horsepower that doesn't throw codes?


    I've seen some people go with a smaller rim in the rear with a higher sidewall on the tire. Some shoehorn a wider tire on a stock rim that may not be safe.


    I don't think going to a huge rim 22" + with an ultra low profile tire is the answer but I might be wrong. I will say I've seen some rather large rear rims damaged with ultra low profile tires by just going down the highway and hitting the seams in the road. Dented the hell out of the rim.


    I'm going to reserve the 2nd post in this thread to be able to summarize the responses for later reference.

    @rabtech Maybe edit the 1st post to include the SLR tire size info?


    Front Tire Size 225 / 45R18
    Front Tire Type Kenda SS-799
    Front Wheel Size 18x7.5 J
    Front Wheel Type Forged Aluminum


    Rear Tire Size 305 / 30R20
    Rear Tire Type Kenda SS-799
    Rear Wheel Size 20x11.0 J
    Rear Wheel Type Forged Aluminum

    Thanks!!!
    I'm considering logging some stuff and thought if I can get throttle position in a log, maybe get brake as well, but if there was a sensor for brake application to grab that instead of just the brake on/off.


    I was not sure if the brake light switch was a position or on/off because of the traction control. Thought maybe it took into account the drivers force application in its calculations.


    It's not worth it to me to read the pressure, just thought if the switch was already there I could pull it and log it.


    Thank you!

    Does anybody know if there is a way to determine brake position or pressure? I know there is a switch for the brake light with is on/off.


    But I'm looking for some way to monitor brake pressure or position. Kind of line Throttle position.


    Thanks,

    The failsafe has the ability to log the RPM along with boost and AFR, where is a good place to connect the AEM Failsafe to for RPM?

    Good to know this.
    I sometimes see AFRs at idle in the 19-20 range, but as soon as I start to give it any gas, the AFR drops down to the 12-14 range (usually at the lower end of that range). During engine braking, I sometimes see AFRs as high as 22, which does disturb me somewhat, but again, as soon as I return throttle pressure, the AFR drops down to a more acceptable range.
    I finally got around to hooking up the rpm readout on my SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge so I can cross-reference the AFR & Boost numbers to my engine rpm. Now if I can just find a better video capture tool than the Xbox recording capability in Windows 10.

    Where did you tap in to get the RPM to your AFR?

    Found the following information on AFR and thought I would share



    When it comes to doing anything performance-related to your car, you have to tune off of several different outputs to create the safest power. The biggest thing you will hear about is the AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio). This is a series of numbers that can determine how the engine is performing. The perfect ratio, or stoichiometric, is 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. This is the perfect ratio, but it isn’t what we tune to because other ratios create more torque. Stoichiometric means that the burn is theoretically perfect. No oxygen is remaining when the burn is completed. When the burn is stoichiometric there is no o2 and gasoline left, like I said it is a theoretically perfect burn that leaves no traces of the original ingredients in the exhaust. An AFR of 12.2 is best because even though the hotter a gas is the more it expands, there isn’t enough of the ingredients to make a higher pressure. For example, if you filled a balloon with stoic gas (14.7) products vs another balloon with an AFR of 12.2, the balloon with 12.2 actually fills the balloon up more than the stoic because there is more left over gasoline to create higher cylinder pressures.


    6.0 AFR – Rich Burn Limit
    9.0 AFR – Black Smoke / Low Power
    11.5 AFR – Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
    12.2 AFR – Safe Best Torque at Wide Open Throttle
    13.3 AFR – Best Lean Torque
    14.6 AFR – Stoichiometric AFR (Stoich)
    15.5 AFR – Lean Cruise
    The smaller the number the “richer” the burn is because there is more more fuel in the mixture. The bigger the number the “leaner” the burn is because there is less fuel. A rich burn is cold, it cant burn as much of the mixture due to the amount of the fuel in the ignition charge. It is safer to have a rich mixture rather then a lean mixture. When you have less fuel in the burn it becomes a violent explosion that creates a lot of heat. Running lean is what destroys engines. Once you reach stoichiometric and start to go past it, another reaction begins to occur. As the burn gets hotter the 02 will begin combining with itself and the nitrogen in the air to create O3 and NOx. That is why in the chart above there is a Safe Best Torque number. It is the perfect balance of fuel and air to create optimal SAFE power at wide open throttle with good cylinder pressures.


    Each vehicle uses sensors to run; one of these sensors measures oxygen. Your everyday vehicle’s oxygen sensor is a narrow band which only allows a narrow range of operation with a 0-1 volt range. It’s only function is to sense a stoic scenario. It can sense when it has gone lean or rich, and that tells the ECU to adjust for that setting to bring it back to stoic.


    When you add on a Wide band, it obviously has a wider range of operation, and functions using of a 0-5 volt range. This can sense the exact ratio to a tenth of a degree and is therefore much more accurate.


    However, stoic is different for every fuel. Some fuels may need 14.7 lbs of air some may need 9 lbs of air for a complete burn. Lambda is used to show the air fuel ratio of any fuel. Lambda 1.0 is always the perfect ratio for any fuel in use. A lot of tuners have the lambda converted to the gasoline 14.7:1 because of the common knowledge of that ratio. For those individuals running E85, as an example, their gauge would still read 12.2(.83 lambda) under WOT and full boost even though stoic for E85 is 9:1 which would mean there gauge would read 7.4 (.83 lambda) if set up to read E85.

    Is there a way to intercept the rev limiter built into the stock ECU and have the failsafe in effect fool the ecu into applying a rev limiter until the failsafe perceives "normal" conditions?


    As I was typing the above... it occurred to me that maybe the traction control limiter could be intercepted instead of the rev limiter. The traction control takes away engine power... does it limit power by basically kicking in the rev limiter? If so could that be used?