Posts by Casey_SS

Quote from TravAZ

@Casey_SS You need to find a company that specialized in fuel injectors. I think Dave is still recommending the place I use by my house called AUS Injection.

http://www.ausinjection.com/

It is around $80 to send them off and have them tested. Honestly, it is much better to send out yours and a buddies and have 8 tested at the same time. Then, determine if you want them cleaned and match two pairs of 4 to the closest flow rates.

Another company that gets good reviews is Fuel Injector Clinic. Good reading at their website below...
http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-testing

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Thanks " TravAZ for the info, maybe this winter we can get a few people from the "Group " to combine our injectors and get them flow matched. Maybe send in 3 or 4 sets at once. Probably a better change of getting more close together.

I wonder how expensive it is to just by 4 flow matched injectors? I'll have to look into that.

Quote from sharps4065

Casey_SS I was able to download the data files from the failsafe gauge thanks to SaltyClownNY. I just need to figure out how to use the AEM data software. I am not to interested in the FIC data.
I appreciate the offer to help.
I fell hook,line and sinker for Bill's b/s on the portfueler. I should have done my homework. With his lack of customer service, any future problems with his portfueler could be troublesome to find someone to work on it. I have to admit it runs damn good now so just cross that bridge when I come to it.
Again, thanks for the offer to help.

I have a template I can post for you to make it easier to review the data.

I may possibly next year just bite the bullet and go with a Haltech and eliminate the FIC. I should have done more research into the FIC. It does run very good at this point but tuning might be a problem in the future.

Bill was a hell of a salesman, in constant contact prior to laying down the $$$$

In some ways I wish I followed the KISS technique to keep it simple. Having so many points of possible failure kind of scares me:

• FIC failure
• Power failure to FIC
• Vacuum line to FIC, which is "T" with WBFS get's a hole or comes loose the FIC will not know to add fuel for boost
• More of Bill's harness falls apart and the secondary injectors don't get a signal and goes lean

Now the FIC intake could still be used with MELFI Bob's tune, just move the secondary injectors to primary position and move the primary to secondary to block the hole and run Bob's tune. But you still have the problem of; are the secondary injectors really flow matched, Bill says they are. I questioned him and he was not able to offer proof other then saying they were / are for his word. I spoke to Bob in Maggie Valley about moving the injectors and running his tune.

I believe Haltech, but could be wrong will run 2 sets of injectors per cylinder, or just do as above for going Bob's tune.

@Dave@DDMWorks is there a way I can pull my injectors I got from Hahn to test them to make sure they are flow matched?

Quote from sharps4065

I apologize for bringing up the subject of Hanh Racecraft. I know everyone is tired of that name but I need some advice.
As you know, Bill did the install of the kit plus the portfueler and AEM failsafe gauge. I thought it would be cool to download the gauge logs and just see what is going on. I have no intention of messing with the portfueler but thought having the usb cable connected would be handy if for some reason down the road I would need a different shop to work on it.
I have been trying to get him to contact me since June 30th with no luck.
I found the usb for the gauge tucked behind the radio and routed it to the engine bay. I keep getting a logger not detected error message when connected to my laptop. So not even sure if either one is even enabled for data logging.
Anyway, I guess my question is, do I really need to data log anyway and should I just forget about it? I am so pissed that a company that has been in business for 30 years would treat customers this poorly. I spent nearly $6000.00 and waited almost 3 months for this.

@sharps4065 I would not apologize at all!

Read at your own risk

The WBFS has a USB connection, with the free software from AEM you can setup the gauge to display in different colors depending upon conditions. You an also hook up an alarm of sorts if the the AFR gets to lean (High number), or rich (Low number) This could be blowing a horn, flashing a light, you could even hook up a wire to shock you ass! Currently there is no good method that I"m aware of to cut boost.

The other thing you can to is do download the WBFS logs, again using AEM free software. After you download the log you can analyze it. Or post for someone here to take a look at.

There is a log that is in the AEM FIC/6 (PortFueler), the log as far as I know cannot be viewed. I tried. They do make software specifically for analyzing the log file from the FIC, but it's very outdated and a pain in the ass. I don't believe they sell many FIC's anymore, if you look over their forum regarding the FIC you'll see what I mean. I talked to them about the FIC and they've not really done anything with it in years. The FIC log and be reviewed in a spreadsheet format with Excel after you import it.

If I can be of any assistance to you or anyone else, I'll be happy to help. But please don't apologize about a business that does not respect you and the $6,000 dollars you spent with him, to nor even get back to you to answer a simple question.

Quote from FunCycle

No, because you can use the stock pieces for the install

What is the advantage of the new brackets and end links?

@Dave@DDMWorks I'm interested in upgrading my stock sway bar.
I'm curious why the mounting brackets and end links are not included.

Are they not required???

Quote from FunCycle

I think if you start at page one you will find all of the info for DIY and pictures. That is why I started this thread so that all the info would be in one place.

I did start at page 1, post 1 and those orientation pictures were not anywhere in this thread

PS we need @StickerDick fender icons to use in our signature!

Got my fenders, which I'll be posting pictures of.

I was unable to find pictures of the orientation of the brackets and how they mounted. I did 2 screen captures from @StickerDick videos that I've posted below.

The 1st picture shows the orientation of the bracket. You have vertical 3 holes in a row that face the front of the sling. The top hole mounts one of the fender support arms. The 2 lower holes mount to the spindle / hub assembly with a spacer between.

The 2nd picture shows the spacers that are between the spindle and the bracket.

Regarding the PCV valve, mine is loud as a MF, at idle it chatters. I can hear the ball bearing inside it rattling around. If I put my hand on it I can feel it vibrating, a cheap whore might actually enjoy it.

Any way...

Anybody else have a noisy PCV valve?

I going to go to Napa and try another one.

I had the crap BOV valve, today I received the TurboSmart Supersonic. Hahn refers to it as the Billet Blow Off Valve

I only played with it for a short time as its getting to dark to be running around with the deer out there.

But at first it seemed to be set to hard. Free reeving in the garage I never go the woosh. I backed it off from the hard setting to softer settings. Then started getting some woosh. I noticed that the valve was staying open just a little prior to settling to ide. So I adjusted it a little harder. Now I get a little woosh and it seems to close at idl.

Quick road test... wow, it now stutters at full throttle which it did not do with the "stock" hahn BOV, but I got woosh.

Anybody know how to adjust it so I get smoothness back like I had with the "stock" BOV???

Thanks,

In light of the the installation.

I'm curious who still has stuff remaining to be received to complete there install??
If you're running with a workaround please also list that.

I myself if you recall, had Bills PortFueler wiring harness fall apart. I bypassed the plug that fell apart and directly soldered the wire around the plug.

Bill promised me a new wiring harness, that I"m still waiting for.

I'm very scared more wires will fall out of his wiring harness. If I had not caught it upon installation. My #1 cylinder injector would not have been working, which would have blown my motor.

Something came up recently and I would like to take a survey of Hahn turbo's and smoke???

Bill recently told me the following, here is the direct quote from Bill On Thursday, July 12, 2018 at 7:35pm
" Your exhaust system choice ultimately was why the PCV needed to be replicated to alleviate the smoking. We've now only seen this occur with Welter exhaust, and if you recall, the takeaway was that the use of the Welter exhaust with our turbosystem was why you'rs and @SaltyClownNY smoked."

I would like to review your setup if you are running Hahn turbo with the PortFueler intake system:

• Are you running WP Exhaust?
• Did you install the PCV modification?
• Did you get smoke?

I felt kind of blindsided when this was brought to my attention, it was referenced it was the combination of the WP Exhaust and his PortFueler setup that caused the smoke and only that specific setup smoked.

Therefore I would like to get feedback about this?

Quote from SaltyClownNY

Just a note, the plugs above have about 3K miles on them with the Hahn system. Think they look OK. Going to check to see if the 4th injector is just over injecting by moving it to Cylinder 3... maybe end of next week.

Reason why we are looking at this is more so to judge how well the air intake distributes the airflow into each cylinder. The thought was that if more air goes into cylinder 4, it will cause a lean condition. At the moment, it looks good to me and is more so running rich and not lean.

@SaltyClownNY Thanks for testing this for me!

Quote from SaltyClownNY

OK... John made me do it. Here is...

Hard pull in 2nd until 6500RPMs were hit and then hard pull in 3rd to 6K, then shut it off and coasted into driveway. Pulled the plugs. Now the picture is a "little" misleading, but essentially cylinder 4 was "wet", but not sure I understand why the wetness didn't dissipate that fast if it were gas, but not much more it can be. Very odd. Cylinder 1 looks a bit off from 2 & 3, but I think it may be the picture as they looked VERY close in real life. Cylinder 4 was the one that was questionable. You can see the pool coming off of it.

Cylinder 4 is on left, Cylinder 1 on right... in order.

And keep in mind this is just one test with one sling. Would be interesting to see how stock systems burn and or other systems / brands. This is using the FIC piggyback system.

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Amazon Pay might be a good option if Bill ever shows up around these parts again

How It Works | Amazon Pay

Welcome!!!

Quote from funinthesun

I must be the odd ball in the group since i really like the stock 2015 SL wheels. It's not a matter of cost since having the wheel shipped out, made 2 inches wider, shipped back, powder coated brings up the cost to almost double of what one new wheel would have been. But I'll tell you this; The look on people's faces (those who know slingshots and what the stock wheel looks like) is priceless when they see this big fat 345 tire on a stock appearing wheel. Even this past winter during Bike Week in Daytona, both Polaris people and a customizer of sports bikes were impressed to see that tire on a stock wheel. The small changes that yields huge results shouldn't be overlooked by the fact that there are other choices in wheels.

I also like the stock rims on my 17SL LE

@funinthesun who did use to widen the rim? Also what spacer did you use?

Thanks @BKL for the information

I'm wanting to go wider not sure if 11" or 12" wide

I'm also looking at widening the stock SL rim that I have to 11 or 12 inch

Rohana makes 2 rims that are similar to the stock rim
RFX5 which is 20x11 and the FRX11 which is 20x12

RFX5

RFX11

Quote from BKL

See this thread - REAR TIRE, my post # 15. While I haven't' found a specific formula describing the relationship between tire profile width and wheel width, based on the Budnik chart I copied the info from, as tire sidewall height increases the minimum required wheel width decreases. When matching wheel width to tire profile, always try to stay within the tire manufacturer's recommended sizes for safety and warranty reasons. Using a wider tire on a narrower than recommended wheel width increases the possibility of breaking the tire-to-rim seal with negative consequences and would probably void any manufacturer responsibility or warranty.
As I posted in a different thread, I have read about folks running 305 tires on 9.5" rims (Mustang forums, IIRC), but that is generally a smaller wheel width than most tire manufacturer's would recommend and probably wouldn't be recommended by the tire manufacturers.

@BKL thanks for the information. I know the recommended width for the 305 is on a 10" rim, vs the stock SL rim being 9.5" But it seems some people are running the 305

One of my questions above which has not been make clear is the height of the tire a 30 vs 35. The 30 is almost the same diameter as the stock 255/35/20

What material did you use?