If you've got the Pro-Charger Supercharger, you're one of the few who has one... Before changing the exhaust, I'd check with the guy who did the ECU reprogram to see if there's enough fuel to cover the flow change. Most supercharger maps run rich, so there should be enough margin, but I'd check just in case. I'd also check the MAP sensor (typically changed to a 2-bar MAP sensor) to make sure that it's a secure mounting. DDM sells clips to hold these securely in the Slingshot manifold to avoid leaks or detachment.
Posts by gearhead
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There's a nice cool place to the left of the steering column with nice holes through the firewall for wire bundles or tubing.
The holes in the firewall are behind the instrument cluster. You can easily see the routing path from the engine compartment by placing a flashlight up behind the instrument cluster.
This location stays nice and cool. If your boost controller has buttons for quick-spooling or boost defeat, you'll be able to reach them from your seat. This is the closest "cool" location to the intake manifold -- so you can keep your vacuum sense line as short as possible.
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There's an unused manifold hose bib covered with a vacuum cap on the stock manifold. These can be used for BOV's or anything needing manifold pressure. I've attached a pic with it circled in red below.
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Just my 2 cents... I'd contact Bob at http://mefiburn.com/slingshottune.asp as he did the tunes for Alpha. You might also check that the MAP sensor (a 2-bar sensor which was adapted to fit in the stock location) is secure and not leaking. DDM sells a plastic bracket which will secure 2-bar map sensors in the Slingshot manifold.
I've got an Alpha supercharger, and I used Brisk RR14S spark plugs gapped down to 18 thousanths to prevent spark blow-out at high RPMs and boost.
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A particularly good reason to avoid engine braking is that the rods are under greatest stress (tension) when braking, especially at higher RPMs. To offset additional loading on the brakes, you can use cooling deflectors:
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There are safety equipment choices -- and then there are insurance choices... If anyone were to take a ride with me in my Slingshot, they'd probably be the most insured they've ever been... I've got a $4M policy. For good reason. Out here in Kalifornia, most of the Hospital ER's have been closed (guess why). An acquaintance of mine had a solo accident on a bicycle in Irvine/Costa Mesa and he had to get med-evac'd out in a damned helicopter. That short copter ride set him back $10K+ and that's before the doctors even got started... An accident at higher speeds in a Slingshot or car involving multiple people -- the costs can get staggering quickly. Not to mention that many cities like Huntington Beach charge a hefty fee for accidents in their city, to cover the costs of their first-responders.
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I've used a HANS device, along with 5-point restraints... This is probably OK if you're on a racetrack -- where you're not going through intersections... A HANS device prevents you from swiveling your head to check cross-traffic. And you can forget about leaning out and taking a quick glance at what's behind you. I tried using a mirror strapped to the wrist of my left hand -- but it was simply too awkward.
The standard 3-point safety belt on a Slingshot does allow your upper torso to pivot inwards (towards the center console) on high-G deceleration. This will avert neck snaps as your head stays in-line with your upper torso. But it also allows your helmet to smash into the steering wheel. I figure, as long as it's my helmet and not my head it's something I can live with.
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Bob's MEFI tunes raise idle a tad... I've used NA tune and now use his Supercharged tune.
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Being a Kalifornia Slingshot, there's an outside chance it's the PCV valve... See this thread:
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I believe Loctite 641 is used to seat the sprocket on the axle shaft. To remove mine, I slowly heated the sprocket with a giant heat gun while rotating the axle/sprocket slowly... Eventually, the 641 lets go and you can get the sprocket off. I rigged a large gear puller with pads to yank the sprocket off when the it got hot enough.
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Just my 2 cents, check one of my prior posts:
This tire will keep the rear end planted better than most anything. Note, that this is the ET-Street-R, not the ET-Street-SS... No same-same. If you want grip, you need a pliable tire. Running this tire on a Forgestar Deep Dish 12x18 +45mm wheel. This tire was originally designed for the Dodge Hellcat/Demon -- and on the drag strip, the sidewalls get a nice wrinkle (see pic).
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I've got a 2015, which came with a group 26 battery... I was looking at ways to ditch some weight and the battery was high on the list. I found that a Braille B3121 would fit, but I had to fab an adapter plate. The Braille battery is 21 lbs with 550 CCA, 1380 A at room temp.... Here's a pic of the OEM group 26 flood filled battery and the Braille B3121.
Here's a pic of the adapter plate I milled from a slab of ABS...
Here's a pic of the Braille installed in the adapter plate...
And, a pic of it installed in the Slingshot:
Now, here's the best part... Rumor has it that the Braille B3121 (around $200 retail) is actually a rebadged Deka ETX-30L (around $100 retail):
I've had the Braille battery for 3+ years no problems. I keep it on a battery tender (AGM setting) when parked in the garage.
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Schuberth Concept Helmet. Integrated internal sunvisor which flips up/down with the flick of a switch. Anti-fog everything. Great adjustable ventilation by moving a slide, very little wind noise, designed in Schuberth's wind tunnel and has integrated turbulators. Convenient to use -- it's a flip-up helmet. The model I'm using is several years old, but if I had to replace it I'd get another:
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Niche vehicles don't need to "grow" to sell a bazillion units a year... The Morgan Auto Company has been making their niche vehicles since 1909 (including 3-wheelers)... They're still around.
Every person that's come up to me while refueling at a gas station has asked "where do you get these?"... That says a lot about the brand recognition (or the lack of it) and dealerships. They need to locate a few Polaris dealerships in auto malls where people can compare Apples to Oranges -- and "discover" the bargain priced Slingshots.
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My 2 cents...
The Slingshot right angle gearcase cover is a structural part, but it's also thin. This means that as the force is transmitted 90 degrees, lateral vibrations are created as the gear teeth mesh. This turns the gearcase cover into an 8" diameter convex speaker cone. This serves as a great impedence match with the surrounding air for transmitting sound. There are those who have sound insulated the trans tunnel and rear areas of the car to reduce sound levels to the driver/passenger. A better solution might be to find a way to brace the gearcase cover to either shift it's resonant frequency much higher (so that the plastic panels can deflect the sound) or have a compliant rubber contact to damp vibrations. Covering the gearcase cover with a sound absorbing mat would not be a good idea as that would retain heat.
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Down here in Kalifornia, I once saw someone in a modded Supra with the custom plate "GONAD" -- I guess that got past our DMV...
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Just my 2 cents... For those with vibrating mirrors, I say use SlingRazor's mirror glass removal technique of using a hot air gun with nylon spudgers to carefully loosen the double-sided stick tape attaching the glass to it's plastic frame. Then, once the glass is removed, you can adjust the screw (circled) which holds the plastic frame to it's "gimbal" mount (circled). Maybe the screw has come loose, there's not enough tension, or the fit between the plastic frame and it's mount needs some adjustment with a dremel or X-acto blade... The mount may also be loose -- but you'll be able to easily determine this once everything's apart...
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My 2 cents... The small ridges/texture on the "top" of the drive belt are completely abraded away... This leads me to believe that you picked up some road debris and it got "stuck" between the frame or in your belt-guard for awhile. Then, it dropped off after a few miles. That would have rubbed off the "top" ribs/texture off the belt. As for the wear on the cogs of the belt -- that might depend on how much dirt-road driving you do. I do not believe that this is caused by any belt misalignment. I'm using a All-Things-Chrome rear sprocket (the larger diameter one on the rear axle) and have no issues with it.
The only time I've seen this kind of wear on a drive belt was on a CNC mill drive belt... Some long chips spiraled up and around, rubbing the top of the belt. The smaller flying chip debris chewed the cogs on the drive side of the belt -- but in my mill application the cogs don't engage anything -- it acts more like a traditional V belt. It was easy and cheap to replace the belt on that mill (just a minute or two). The Slingshot's belt, on the other hand, is far more expensive and takes more time...
Maybe we need an underbody "diffuser" guard to deflect debris away from the belt...
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