Posts by BKL

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    IIRC, this forum now has a couple thousand members. $50/year should help eliminate some of your concerns!:thumbsup: I'd think most of us get enough from the forum to justify a modest yearly membership fee!

    Full disclosure here.... I'm not promoting the brand just letting him know what MiM used. I actually work at Rugged Ridge but I'm really not interested in what brand someone ends up with. Only that they do a little research on the brand they might buy through Amazon. The Rugged Ridge brand are a private lable LED supplied by a reputable manufacturer. Just do your research that's all. LED lights is one of the most copied and knocked off product you will ever find out if China.

    No problem. The reviewer stated that "You get what you pay for..." and reported disappointment with a cheaper brand.

    MiM got his lights from me. They are actually Rugged Ridge LEDs that have a heat rating of over 6000 so a very bright white.

    Just an FYI. You can find them out there for less money but you have to be careful with what you order off Amazon. With LEDs you really do have to worry about the old saying " you get what you pay for".

    I run the Rugged Ridge dual beams that have Amber running lights.

    IIRC, I read at least one review on LED lights where the reviewer pointed out the durability of Rugged Ridge LEDS. He replaced a different, cheaper brand with the RR units after the other lights ended up allowing water protection after a short exposure to rain.

    wife ordered on her phone so I don't have a link at the moment but I just searched 3.5 Inch round led light . Don't have any other pics yet but I can say they're brite. I still have halogen centers and when you hit the brights they light up higher but not farther

    Thanks for the size info. I found an 8 degree spot light matching the 3.5" diameter, 18W specs that looks like it might work - https://smile.amazon.com/6KLED…-Auxiliary/dp/B01CTG55TI/. Also found several other links to check out.

    Got an Amazon link for those lights? My Amazon search-fu didn't find anything like the ones in your pics. Also, do you have any driver's perspective pics showing how much the spot vs flood projects light down the road? I have the SlingshotOnly 6-LED headlight bulb set with SlingMods Canadian Headlights and would still like to get more light down-the-road. Lighting to the sides is OK, but I definitely want/need more light down-road for my night rides at speed.

    I'd be particularly interested in the 8 degree Spot lights to hopefully concentrate the light down-the-road. Back in the late 2000s, I remember seeing listings for 10 or 15 degree spots that cost around $150-300 each, which was outside my available budget, so I never tried them.

    You are correct and I was one of the first ones to change over to the mechanical switch. Like I said also you could not use the cruise if the brake lights are on.

    Makes sense about not being able to use the CC if the brake lights are on since using the brakes is supposed to disable the CC. I was lucky enough to never have trouble with the brake switch, just the brake pressure sensors. Once I applied the brakes, the sensors continued to make the system think the brakes were still applied even though the brake lights had turned off when I removed my foot from the brake pedal.

    If I remember correctly the pedal switch also lets the brake light stay on also and will not let you use cruise. Back in 15 and 16 in Maggie I followed 2 or three Slings that their brake lights stayed on

    I believe the brake light is triggered by the switch on the brake pedal arm and if the lights stay one signifies a problem with the magnetic switch Polaris uses. Folks have replaced that switch with a physical switch from NAPA, IIRC, but I can't remember the specific pn.

    If you also lost use of your Cruise Control, it's definitely the brake sensors. Their only purpose is to disable the CC as the brake lights are controlled by the switch on the brake pedal. The brake sensors are supposed to be a free repair thru the end of 2020, unless Polaris cheaps out and rescinds the free replacement..

    I've had the brake pressure sensors replaced twice now, IIRC. Each time, the only thing really affected was the CC and the light coming on. Turning the engine off and then restarting would allow the CC to again function until I had t make anything more than light use of the brakes. The sensors never caused any problem with the gas pedal.

    Off-Topic comment - Reading all of the available rear end ratios for the different Slingshot rear treatments, I thought back on my 1976 Pontiac Trans AM I bought while assigned to the US Army Field Station Berlin. Thanks to the pollution controls (it was also the first year where catalysts were required) and pressure from the insurance industry to reduce HP, the 400 engine in my TA was listed as 200 HP. Even with the 400 V8, acceleration sucked, so Porsches and BMWs could out-accelerate me from a light. Slower acceleration was also due to the 2.41 rear-end gearing previously associated primarily with boats like my Mom's Buick Electra 225, but the 2.41 rear-end also meant the engine was loafing along at 3000 rpm at 100 mph, making that car a dream to drive on the German Autobahns, which, at the time, had no speed limits.

    Personally, I've wanted to install some version of old school hood pins for several years, probably the ones that use a slider to lock the pin and a fold-over ring to keep the slider in place. Placing the pins int he front should be easy since several folks have installed hoodpins there. My problem is designing metal brackets that would place both rear pins in the same location to secure the back of the hood, too. I'm finally focusing on either using a metal plate with bent corners to allow the mounting of the hoodpins between the top top frame members at the rear of the engine or using metal plates held in place via metal pipe clamps designed to hold the plates in place between the two frame members or using some. My last option would be using some flat 1/4" ABS sheet that have ABS shoulders glued to the sheet to locate it in place between the frame tubes and then held in place via pipe clamps. I would want both the front and rear pins to be symmetrical with their counterpart so the installation looks balanced. I'd then probably just remove the original hood latches.

    It's not a reverse trike like the Slingshot and is definitely more motorcycle-like in handling since it's based on the leaning technology that went into the Carver out of The Netherlands - http://flytheroad.com/. I had high hpes for them, but everything seemed to fizzle out after a few years. Sure as H... would have been a lot of fun, but if/when the front wheel loses grip, watch out!

    I had a deposit with these guys (https://www.litmotors.com/), but pulled it when I bought my Slingshot since Lit Motors was still int he planning stages (still are, as far as I can tell). Based on some of their test demos, they will have a remarkably stable product if they can make it to market.

    Actually, Cam Am has its own competitor for the Spyder and it's the Ryker. It starts at just over half the cost of a Base Spyder and the larger-engined Ryker is probably the most cost-effective performance 3-wheeler available, but the Ryker line initially only seated one. Glad to see they now offer passenger seats, too.

    I'm surprised jacking up the hood bumpers in an attempt to eliminate flapping doesn't increase the likelihood of hood latching problems.

    When ever I'm on a multilane highway, I always try to place at least one lane between me and any tractor trailers just to minimize the flapping. Meeting large trucks going the opposite direction on two lane country roads can be exciting!