Posts by BKL

    Actually, I inevitably want to go back and clean up something like that. I always worry when writing something like that that I might make a mistake or not be clear enough that I end up causing more confusion.

    In this case, since I have never seen the kit in person, I was having to go strictly off the instructions and make educated guesses as to how the entire thing works. I probably spent over 1 hr just trying to make sure I was as accurate as I felt I could be.

    One thing I found interesting about the design was the fact that only 2 wires run to the switch which then controls 2 circuits and their fuses. There is a part of the harness shown in the listing pic that appears to have several wires going in & out, with cable ties to keep that section contained, and which I assume has a relay setup so that the single circuit thru the switch can properly control the 2 circuits that actually handle the two headlight circuits. If I could see the actual components and how they're wired together, I'd like to see how everything is wired and if the 2 headlight circuits are separated so that the each fuse is only responsible for one circuit, which is why I assume there is some sort of relay setup in the bundled section of the harness.

    Should anyone want to try any of the mods I suggested, please make sure you run everything by someone whose electrical knowledge you trust, just to be safe and get a second opinion.

    Lets alert BKL He might be able to help...

    Unfortunately, the Fog Headlight Switch kit I installed was from Slingshotonly and had MUCH clearer instructions.

    I glanced over the Instructions for the Headlight Bypass Version 2 and they do lack some clarity, like telling you to drill a 2nd hole in Step 10, but never tells you to drill the first hole and doesn't clearly specify where the hole should be drilled in the fuse box cover. This is a relatively minor problem since the holes need to correspond to the two locations where the blades from the kit will be inserted. Also keep in mind that the holes should be high enough that the kit's wiring that feeds thru the holes have enough room to bend and fit down into the original breaker/fuse connections. With the kit's wiring feeding thru the side of the fuse box cover, it should also be kept in mind that care is needed when removing the fuse box cover to ensure that the circuits are still connected properly.

    As far as the kit's design, the connector that replaces the breaker and the fuse basically inserts a switch in place of the breaker and fuse and then uses the two external inline fuses so the system is still protected against overloads. The overall design raises 2 issues in my mind. Keep in mind that I have not physically held/inspected this kit, so the Bypass kit design may have addressed the two issues I have concerns about. Those concerns being that the kit replaces the 30A circuit breaker with what appears to be a simple 30A fuse (green) and also appears to replace the Yellow 20A fuse with a 30A fuse (green). I would prefer the kit replaced both the breaker and the fuse with the same value as the breaker or fuse being replaced. The purpose of the breaker is to allow the breaker to reset itself, if triggered, and by resetting, maintain headlight operation (although the headlights may cycle on/off as the breaker continually triggers and resets). Replacing the breaker with a fuse means that if the fuse blows, the lights are inoperable. If I were to use this kit, I would want to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker of the same type as the fuse used in the kit (based on the pictures in the instructions, I believe the kit uses ATO fuses (but they might be Maxi fuses), so I'd use an ATO breaker. Since the other circuit originally used a 20A fuse, I'd replace the other 30A fuse with a 20A fuse that fits the kit's receptacle. The instructions state that it doesn't matter which set of wires get plugged in to replace the 20A fuse and 30A breaker since the kit uses 30A fuses for each circuit. If someone chooses to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker and a 20A fuse, it is very important that the 20A fuse be placed in the fuse holder that is connected to the original 20A circuit and the 30A breaker (sized for the new fuse holder type) should connect to the corresponding circuit that originally had the 30A breaker. Identifying where to place the 30A breaker and the 20A fuse should be revealed by just pulling one of the 30A fuses and then watch which set of lights goes out. You should probably also do this before installing the kit so that you know which circuit the breaker or fuse controls so you'll know which circuit has the breaker and which circuit has the fuse.

    I have tried to describe my thoughts as accurately and clearly as possible (at least to my warped way of thinking):/, but anyone attempting the changes I suggested should consult with someone knowledgeable about automotive wiring to verify that I haven't made any mistakes. I've been known to overthink things to the point where I just confuse myself!=O Be safe and get a validating opinion.

    Keep in mind that local LEOs may or may not pull you over if you leave that light bar on when approaching other vehicles. Looking at the pics above, the light bar , while flooding the road surface and sides with light, also throws plenty of light up to hit the trees and will have the same blinding impact on an approaching driver as the high beams. I don't have a light bar, but the 2 strips of LEDs in my MadStad bumper still manage to throw light up above the low beam cutoff even though I have the LEDs aimed down as much as I can. I rarely use them since it's a PITA to find the switch on the console every time I need to dim my lights. Of course, different laws may apply in different areas.

    Heard back from MadStad customer service and they confirmed that they can get me replacement components if there is future damage vs having to buy a whole new front bumper. Looks like MadStad design is the winner (assume components have to be cheaper than a whole assembly). DDM coil overs at Christmas depleted the mod account so gotta save up a few more $$ then can get the new bumper (and hope I don't hit any other critters between now and then). Might have to run the river road vs the mountain road until that happens since it seems I only hit critters on the mountain road.

    Try Otter's First Mod - https://www.slingshotforums.co…irst-mod.4735/#post-99272. He just removed the Front Lower Wing. I ran w/o one for a short time before I modded a Rear Deck Wing to mount in place of the Front Lower Wing. Since it was not as wide as the Front Lower Wing, I found it easier to avoid animals when I suddenly encountered them during night rides.

    All of our supercharger and turbo tunes that use the larger fuel injectors have been modified about a year ago to keep the reported fuel mileage correct. Bob @ Mefiburn should be able to update your tune for you with that update.

    I had Bob update my ECU in 2019 or 2020, but my Miles Left until Empty and MPG numbers are still way off. I've just come to ignore the Miles Left until Empty and MPG numbers and just track things in my head.:|

    I agree but you would think the township would identify these potential danger areas and place a warning bar as a gage well in advance of the bridge to totally avoid a disaster or a stupid driver that attempts to test the accuracy of the warning!

    That bridge already has a Warning Bar! I think the authorities might want to consider if it might be too close to the bridge to really be useful!;)

    Making sure your gas level doesn't go low enough to pump stuff from the bottom of your tank is very important once boost is added to your vehicle. It definitely pays to know how far you can typically go on a tank of gas and to refill before hitting 1/4 tank left. Using 1/4 tank as the minimum low point before refilling allows a decent cushion in case you suddenly can't find a gas station.

    Personally, I wouldn't trust the miles left display if the injectors were changed. The Miles left and MPG numbers my Slingshot showed after I added a turbo were way off. I know I can get around 225 miles from a tank and always try to fill-up before I get much under 1/4 tank left.

    The purpose of a relay is to take the current load off the switch, protecting the switch. On headlight circuits with Halogen or old-style incandescent bulbs, with 4 headlights, each needing 55 or more Watts, the switch would need to be able to handle around 18 Amps (I assumed 12V for ease of math).;) Here's the math - 4 bulbs x 55W = 220W. Using 12V, this means a current of around 18.3Amps (220/12= 18.33 Amps). Since LED bulbs typically use 1/4-1/2 the current needed for incandescent bulbs, you may find the switch that can handle the needed current w/o problem, but using a relay is still preferred since the switch will last a lot longer compared to not using a relay. Using a relay means the switch only sees a few milliamps instead of the entire current load of the circuit and will therefore have a much longer life.

    Well my yellow calipers didn’t materialize. The only yellow I could find was a little too screaming for me. I did find a burnt copper that I really like. It is just a little darker than what I did on my last SS...

    SoCal, I like the idea of painting with the caliper in place. For some reason, I had assumed the caliper needed to be removed for painting. Did the caliper require much prep before painting? What did you do to get it ready?

    Yeap, that has been our experience also. I have not seen anyone adjusting camber/caster on the front of the Slingshot. We did play with the camber on the front of the Slingshot though and did find that at -1.5 degree of camber you can get the front of the Slingshot to really hook well and get it to go on 2 wheels pretty easily. Pretty sure that is why Polaris ships them with 0 camber.

    When Otter first posted about changing his front-end adjustments, the subject of why Polaris set it up the way they did came up and, IIRC, it was believed the Polaris settings were implemented after a Polaris executive managed to get into some trouble and the final settings were established to avoid problems. I think it was in this thread - https://www.slingshotforums.co…ond-mod.4881/#post-101810. The thread is a long read, though I believe it has some interesting content.

    LOL, maybe too much throttle when crossing tracks... :)

    Me? Never, ever, ever!;) I routinely drive that at grade RR intersection and always take the crossing at the posted 45 mph. My Slingshot with the stock coilovers routinely lost traction, but my Slingshot with the Bilstein coilovers and my 2013 Ford Edge both handle the railroad tracks w/o any feeling of lost traction.

    I have some RR tracks near my house when I crossed them the first time I felt the difference. No more shopping cart bounce.

    Same here. With the stock coilovers, my Slingshot would seem to go airborne when crossing the RR tracks, but once I installed my Bilstein coilovers, the Slingshot maintained a planted feeling and doesn't seem to leave the road surface.