Posts by BKL

    What are the recoverable limits for Small Claims Court in your area? You shouldn't need a lawyer, but I would assume the shop probably will have one. Alternatively, you could look at taking out a 1/4 or 1/2 page ad in your local community newspaper or want ads detailing how wonderful your experience has been with that shop! Might cost yo a few dollars, but think of the satisfaction of getting your story out there locally where it should do the most good.

    Unfortunately, a person w/o health insurance would likely be billed and expected to pay the entire amount billed ($1342.00)! Large insurance companies can force health providers to accept lower reimbursements than you or I could ever negotiate. Those providers who agree to the lower reimbursement are known as in-network providers. Having or not having a network of providers in a given area are one of the stumbling blocks to allowing health insurance sales across state lines, as an insurer needs an established network to make a profit before selling insurance in a new state or area it is thinking about expanding into. In reality, it's almost impossible to assign a real cost to any medical procedure, as each insurance company tries to minimize its reimbursements to maximize profit.
    It's possible that an uninsured person might get a reduced rate by offering to pay cash, but not guaranteed. i had a dentist who wanted me to switch to a cash payment system where he didn't have to bother with insurance billing, but he would never provide me a fixed price list for his services and I wouldn't do so otherwise.

    I know it's only been 1 week since your last post, but I was wondering how you feel the system is working now?
    Did you choose the Stage 2 just to get the Boost gauge/methanol controller or are there other advantages to the Stage 2 over the Stage 1? I'm thinking about the Stage 1 system as I already have an Innovate SCG-1 Boost/AFR gauge w/data logging capability and I don't plan on running anything over 6-8 psi boost.

    UPDATE - I found a possible small air leak at the center section of the Heatwall. See the picture below for suggested fixes. I didn't actually feel air flowing thru. I was just disturbed how my had fit over the foam molding to touch the top edge of the Heatwall.


    I've also been wondering if the insulation over the bigger opening in the cubby area where the wires come into the cubby area might get damaged over time by the flexing wires. A possible solution here would be to use a small piece of sheet metal to cover most of the bigger opening, secured by some aluminum tape and with a grommet or otherwise padded opening for the wiring to pas thru into the cubby area and then covered with self-stick insulation. The piece of sheet metal only needs to be large enough to overlap the sides on the bigger opening to provide sufficient strength and support so that the insulation covering the bigger opening doesn't get damaged by the wiring.


    If I decide these changes are really necessary, i'll incorporate them into the how-to. Until such changes are made, if ever, keep these ideas in mind and apply if you feel they are necessary.

    I've been waiting to install my Hahn Turbo kit until my swing-arm gets repaired. I also wanted to install my Radio and Boost gauge into the cubby area where the factory radio normally installs, but I've been concerned about the heat coming from the engine compartment into the uninsulated cubby area. Awhile back, I designed a radio mounting plate for my round marine radio and also equipped with a little storage hole to hold glasses, candy bar, etc, during a ride. I'm now redesigning the mounting plate, eliminating the storage hole so I can install my boost gauge. My radio says it should be protected from heat sources, so I watched the Cycle Springs install video on YouTube for their no-longer-on-the market heatwall
    (

    )
    and decided to make my own. The last couple of weeks, I've had my Slingshot torn apart and have basically spent an hour or two per day trying to figure out how to make the heatwall and several more hours per day trying to make a hopefully easy-to-understand how-to.
    I have attached 4 PDF files, one covering the overall process of disassembling the dash and cutting a piece of sheet metal to serve as the heatwall, with the other 3 PDF files being printable templates allowing the recreation of a full-size template to transfer the dimensions onto a piece of sheet metal.


    My Thanks to @WI_Hedgehog for converting my chicken scratch drawings into clean PDF files that make it a lot easier to create the full-size template. He also created a CAD file (DXF) of the template which I can email to those interested as I couldn't get it uploaded to the site. Just PM me with your email if you want a copy of the DXF file.


    Materials list - A printed version of the InsulatingTheCubbyArea.pdf how-to. Follow the directions for printing and reassembling the 3 template sheets in the how-to.
    An 8" x 24" sheet of thin aluminum or sheet metal and some black paint.
    Aluminum tape.
    Some self-stick insulation. I got mine on EBay, about 6-8 mm thick. 6 sf should be more than enough.
    Electrical tape.
    Cable ties


    Tools list -
    Typical Slingshot tools (T40 & T25 drivers, 7 & 8 mm Hex keys and a 10 mm socket/ratchet are the main tools that come to mind).
    Sabersaw w/a metal-cutting blade or metal cutting snips.
    Utility knife.
    General purpose shears for cutting aluminum tape and the self-stick insulation.


    I hope this helps somebody.

    We had a gouged wheel as a result of an accident. The insurance company sent the wheel to a repair shop while the rest of the car was being repaired. When the wheel came back, you could never tell it had been repaired. Unfortunately, your rims had far more gouges than we had. I can see repairing one or two gouges per wheel. As many as are shown in your pics, if the wheels show the least bit of repair, I'd hold out for replacement wheels.

    I try to have enough withheld to cover my taxes and try to avoid over-paying to where I get a large refund.

    so hopefully the new swing has new and improved bearings? haha....although i hate getting my swing replaced,,since i added redline shockproof,,,,not a peep from bearings or components...:)

    I thought the Redline Shockproof lube went into the angle-drive. The only lube problem I've heard associated with the swing-arm is the lack of lubricant or method for adding any grease for the bearing(s) in the awing-arm.

    This link is for the Base model - Specs: 2017 Polaris Slingshot - Black


    SLINGSHOT® VEHICLE SPECIFICATIONS


    DIMENSIONS / CAPACITIES

    Max Wet Weight 1749 lbs.


    Just checked that website again and all three versions have the same weight. I assume the info given on the website is for 2017 models.



    As far the trailer you were wondering about, I wouldn't think the extra 60 lbs or so over the trailer's cargo limit should make much of a difference. Now if you've added enough mods to add more than 100+ lbs, then that might start pushing things, although I would think routine design parameters would allow for some extra weight.

    Unfortunately, my normal ride is almost always the same route. At the same time, I've come to know that I can just put in cruise control and make all of the turns at the posted speed limit (or slightly above) w/o needing to brake barring some sand/dirt/debris/animal remains on the road. It's semi-regularly patrolled so I tend to stay within 5 mph of the speed limit. On roads I haven't traveled before, I tend to observe the speed limit and may even slow down for speed-limited turns until I have a feel for the road's design.
    I consider myself to be a somewhat conservative driver and prefer to be in the correct gear before entering a turn so I hopefully won't need to shift in the middle of the turn.

    Man. Looked like the tail lost traction there for just a moment. Please be careful driving like that. Make sure you always obey the posted speed limit and consider the suggested posted corner speeds!

    I miss the FUNNY! button TDS had! Just be careful shifting in turns.

    Never really been a fan of beer, but while stationed in Berlin in the 1970s, I liked Berliner Weisse mit Schuss, which is a centuries old Berlin tradition of a sour wheat beer with some raspberry syrup in it. Played rugby with the British soldiers stationed in Berlin and got a liking for Shandy, basically half-beer and half lemonade or a similar soda.
    As far as food, I never really got into fine German food, but I developed an addiction to Currywurst, a Berlin favorite made with a special sausage that was fried to a crisp skin and covered in a curry sauce typically made from ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and curry powder. I liked to add onions and Tabasco sauce, too and sometimes some spicy German mustard. I had some at a recent German Fest in Tomball, TX and the guy was from Berlin and made the sausages himself. They were really good, although paying the festival price of $8 for one small sausage did seem a little troubling. I'm hoping he opens a restaurant or store. Back in the 1970s, a currywurst and a small roll cost around 50 cents and a Coke to go with it was closer to $1. Beer was cheaper than soda!
    We used to go to a house my Wife's aunt had in Fredericksburg, TX (a sizable German community NW of Austin, TX) and would visit its German restaurants whenever we visited.

    I got my Hahn turbo kit back in November 2016 and then learned of the swing-arm recall. I plan on installing the turbo once the current recalls are done. Thanks for posting this and bringing it to my attention.