Posts by BKL

Quote from UK_Paul

Not me either!But it's 07:53 hrs right now in England, so I could give it a couple of hours or so and then phone.

One suggestion for the cover
It will never have both nuts in line under the cover, so it may be better to off set the hole for the screw just a little, to stop anyone trying to tighten it soon much it loosens the two. Perhaps it should be moved so that it can only increase the presure between the two lock nuts.

Not a big deal, but every little bit helps.

I think they designed the set screws to tighten against the inner nut with the socket portion of the cover securing the outer nut. See my annotated picture, below.

Turbos can fluctuate in their boost output based on the surge of exhaust gases, for example. More exhaust gases, more boost and it feeds on itself. Limiting factors such as exhaust restrictions, etc., notwithstanding.
Scs boost is directly related to engine rpm and doesn't really vary as the SC speed is determined by how fast the belt spins in a direct relationship to engine rpms.

hahn offers their turbo in Stage 1 (no intercooler, lower boost) and in Stage 2 (intercooler and higher boost). They also offer an upgrade kit to go from Stage 1 to Stage 2. Also, keep an eye out for Hahn's "Slightly Wamr" specials where they offer a trrasded-in, used exhaust FREE with purchase of a Stage 2 system. That's what I did. and got my Hahn Stage 2 turbo setup w/exhaust for a little over $4K with shipping. The other systems (turbo or SC) star around $4900 w/o exhaust system.
SCs are good fro general boost and reduce risk of exploding your engine. Turbos offer a faster boost, but things can go wrong if not monitored carefully.

Parts interchangeability varies by turbo/SC vendor. If you go SC, most setups do not include an exhaust system, although stock can be used with at least some of the SC systems. Alpha, IIRC, is designed to be used with either the stock or (a) certain aftermarket manifold(s). Hahn turbo systems use a Hahn-designed intake manifold. Generally speaking, each turbo vendor offers compatible exhaust systems. Welter offers universal exhausts systems for forced induction that should work with any forced induction system, but I don't know if the the available ECU flashes for the various turbo/Sc systems have been or need any mods to enhance the Welter turbo exhaust performance.

There was a thread on TDS about closing off that opening. He did it thru the cubby hole from inside the cockpit. IIRC, he cut two small panels from air duct metal and attached them to insulation, allowing for the wires coming into the cubby area. The two small panels were so they could fit thru the cubby hole and still cover most of the opening. He then used self-stick insulation and aluminum tape to seal everything off.

I can only wish I were as talented!

While I think this looks pretty neat, I do have a small concern about fit, since the inner and outer nuts may not always end up in the orientation the grooves look for. Posts # 41 & 53 in this thread show examples of the differing nut orientations I was referring to. If the outer nut can be secured even if it is only slightly off from the inner nut as shown in those posts, then I assume there shouldn't be any problem.

After looking at the picture some more, I realize that there shouldn't be an issue. I just needed to think about it a little more.

I have the Base model. I'm currently running a 275/35R18 Nankang NS-20 on the factory 9.5" rear and ran a 295/30R18 Sumitomo HTR Z III before that. I had gotten a little over 10K on my first 2 Kenda 265/35R18 tires, but only got around 5000 miles on the Sumitomo. The Nankang has around 5K on it now and should be good at least another 5K miles.
In my search for an affordable wider tire solution for use after I get my turbo installed (I'm waiting for my damned swing-arm to get replaced before I install my Hahn turbo setup), I bought an American Muscle 10th Anniversary Mustang Cobra 17 x 10.5" wheel and a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17. The tire is pretty close to the diameter of the stock rear tire and handled fine while I had it on the rear for testing. The only drawback to this wheel/tire combo is that the wheel is a +28 mm offset so the wheel sits slightly off-center. The wheel was only $150 shipped from American Muscle. Got the Nitto from Discount Tire Direct.
Depending on how the 555 G2 wears, I might try a Nitto Motivo UHP All Season tire next.

After seeing the initial post about vents to reduce the hood flapping, I ordered these with the intention of cutting functional vents into them. But haven't gotten around to doing anything, yet. In some ways, I think the metal may be easier to cut-out than trying to Dremel the plastic vents.
2Pcs Car Decorative Air Flow Intake Scoop Turbo Bonnet Vent Cover Hood Fender Sale - Banggood.com

Quote from Dave@DDMWorks

What we are printing as a prototype right now solves this problem much easier without the need of an extra set of set screws. As you can see in the picture attached the inside of the cap has a hex machined into it that fits over the outside nut, then there are set screws that lock it to the inside nut.

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The 3D printer is printing one out now that I will test in the morning on several of the Slingshots here for fitment, and if everything looks good, I will send it out to @mytoy to have him try it on his Slingshot also.

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That is an elegant solution. Locks both nuts against each other for extra security. If Polaris ever ends my replacement swing-arm and I get the double nut, I'll certainly consider that.

Just read a thread over on TDS and a forum member asked about the security of the Double Nut solution. Based on the responses that actually answered his question, both responses felt it was a secure solution and didn't warrant any concern. This would mean my concern about the outer nut loosening is unwarranted and not needed (unless you're paranoid like me ).

IIRC, the factory speaker pods come with 2 screws to secure the front tabs. If you look at the rear-most screw hole, there is a T40 screw securing the lower body panel to the frame. I used all 3 locations to secure the factory pods.

Like I originally posted, I like the idea of the Double Nut cover. I suggested adding a second row of setscrews because since the cover only secures itself via the setscrews against the inner nut, I didn't see anything that could prevent the outer nut from loosening (other than the friction of the two nuts against each other, which should normally be enough to prevent loosening) as the inner setscrews only serve to secure the nut cover. Several owners have criticized the efficacy of the double nut solution due to the relative thinness of the two nuts and how few threads are available for the second nut to grip and lock itself against the inner nut. IIRC, the inner nut is supposed to be torqued to 250 lbft and the outer nut to 150 lbft. Ideally, the different torque pressures should keep the nuts secure against each other, but I simply like the extra insurance of the outer row of angled setscrews (necessary or not) to provide additional security. It's like using threadlock + a security wire.

Actually, I should hope the outer nut should be sufficient to prevent the nuts from loosening. I just like extra insurance which the angled setscrews against the outer nut would provide.

The original Nut cover worked to prevent the single nut from rotating. Polaris' new Double Nut solution isn't aesthetically appealing. By adding a second row of setscrews to your new Nut cover, the two rows of setscrews will each secure their own nut. The inner setscrews can be perpendicular to the inner nut's sides as you show. The outer row of setscrews would not be perpendicular since it's pretty much impossible to determine who the outer nut will position against the inner nut once it's tightened against the inner nut, as you pointed out, so I suggest angling the setscrew holes so the outer ring will lock against the outer nut and prevent it loosening. I hope my pic helps explain what I mean.

I assumed from the video that the Nut cover was secured only by the setscrews on the inner nut. By using setscrews on both nuts the Nut cover serves to reinforce both nuts by locking them together via the Nut cover.

Quote from mytoy

Because you don't know where the top nut will be in relationship after it is torqued to specs. the set screws are tightened to the lower nut watch the more closely please

That's why I edited my post to address the fact that you don't know exactly how the outer nut will be oriented. By angling the setscrews, they should be able to act against the outer nut regardless of its position.

When I was stationed in West Berlin in the 1970s, I liked to drink Berliner Weisse mit Schuss, a wheat beer with a slightly sour taste, typically served with an added shot of raspberry syrup. You can find the flavored syrup here if you want o try flavoring your beer - Google

Good idea and should be relatively inexpensive to manufacture. I noticed it appears to use a row of setscrews to secure the inner nut. Why not add a second row of setscrews to secure the outer nut as well? That way the cover serves to set the two nuts against each other to maintain their tightness, while presenting a prettier view to the world. The outer row of setscrews could be angled in so that they place lock pressure on the outer nut to resist loosening with the inner row of setscrews threaded straight in to maintain pressure between the two nuts.

We drove thru Lexington, KY on our way from WV to Nashville, TN via Ohio last year on our way back to Texas. First time I'd been in KY since I was a child.

As far as your auto-trans conversion, I'd think folks would be interested in a write-up on how you did it. For example, did you set it up for fully automatic operation or does the driver tell it when to shift into the next gear?