Posts by BKL

    I would think Red or Blue would be the problem colors as those are the colors of official/emergency vehicles. Green, Yellow or White shouldn't be a problem.

    Don't know about MadStad's replacement policy under warranty, but IIRC, they do sell replacement shields for around $150-200 or so, making it easy for folks who prefer different sizes for different seasons. I bought a MadSatd for it's adjustability, but I do wish they offered polycarbonate shields.

    I'm trying to make my own..I have it cut out already but I need to know what type of LEDs they use...it's not these... Amazon.com: Black PCB TV BackLight Kit,Computer Case LED Light,eTopxizu 3.28Ft Multi-colour 30leds Flexible 5050 RGB USB LED Strip Light with 5v USB Cable And Mini Controller For TV/PC/Laptop Background Lighting: Computers & Accessories . Because when they are lit you can tell the lights are individual ...on the one you buy the light looks continuos....

    If you watch the install video, you can see there is a solid center piece that has the LEDs (light strip, presumably) that provide the perimeter lighting. I would assume the solid center piece at the bottom of the panel causes the light to distribute itself across the panel.

    While I do think it is a decent looking top that blends well with the Slingshot, I seriously doubt it has anywhere near the strength of the other large tub-framed tops such as Twist Dynamics or Bullet Speed.

    IIRC, when the SR-71 was first mentioned in the popular magazines (Popular Science or Popular Mechanics, I think) it was originally referred to as the RF-12 or RF-12A and was originally reported to be a fighter/interceptor capable of engaging Russian bombers and maybe even missiles. As I remember the reporting, the DEW line in the Arctic could detect a vehicle and the RF-12A was supposed to be capable of intercepting it before it crossed into American airspace at the US/Canadian border. It's been a long time, so I might not have remembered everything correctly. I believe the fighter/interceptor story was part of OPSEC to cover the fact the SR-71 was a U2 replacement.
    I've had the pleasure of viewing both a B-52 and an SR-71 land. Both aircraft are very impressive.

    Since I installed a Nankang NS-20 275/35R18 tire, I've noticed that during normal riding conditions on the Interstate that my rear end seems to be more responsive to minor steering corrections and feels like it sways slightly. Oddly enough, I don't really notice any sway when conducting rapid lane changes. I guess the rapid lane shift overcomes any apparent swaying since the rapid maneuver would be expected to cause some swaying. Several reviewers have criticized the NS-20 as having a soft sidewall, which would seem to explain the feeling. The NS-20 is priced similarly to the Kendas and offers slightly better traction in my opinion, although it doesn't seem to last as long as my Kenda rear tires did. Putting a Nitto 555 G2 on next.

    I have a Twist Dynamics Top (Gen 2) and have removed it and reinstalled it several times. Each reinstall requires some wrestling to make everything fit, so I assume there have been minor variations in the Slingshot's frame geometry.

    Am I the only one the runs a second wire to the battery terminal on the alternator? I didn't feel like climbing under the SS.

    I assume the alternator connection is only on when the engine is running?
    I have a Fuzeblock I got thru Amazon and am thinking about either connecting it to the SlingMods battery Jump Start Ports I just installed or just connecting it to the alternator.

    I found this while taking a walk and I immediately thought about an axle nut cover. If it was the correct size. It's plastic and it looks like someone ran over it. But what do you think? And anyone know where we could buy something like this or what it's called or it's actual purpose?

    My guess is it might be some kind of nut cover from a big rig.

    The reason is, as a flag is carried (when on a flag staff). The stars are at the forward section. So when viewed from the left it would look normal, from the right it will look backwards. On the US uniforms it is on the right shoulder an therefore it looks backwards.

    .
    Yes sir, always moving forward, with the states leading the way .... so its orientation is correct, not backwards at all .... politician-squared


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    You are both correct. I probably should have done a better job titling the thread.

    Got parts back from powder coating.

    I noticed your Pyle radio. Is that the model with the 3" video display? if so, do you have the video display hooked?
    I had the Lanzar equivalent model, but never hooked up the video. I replaced the Lanzar unit with a Planet Audio PGR35B unit. The PGR35B has the same features, except it doesn't have a video display, just a dot matrix readout for station or song info, but it does have a little more power to the speakers. I replaced the Lanzar with the PA unit because the Lanzar wasn't holding the memory/time settings and I didn't like the fact it was so dependent on the all-too-easily-lost remote. The PGR35B has all of its settings internally via a nested menu. When I installed the PGR35B, I discovered that the Lanzar unit may have been working properly, but may not have been storing the time/memory because the accessory fuse had blown. :S The Lanzar definitely had a nicer color display compared to the PGR35B, but I like the PGR35B simply because it's louder and doesn't require a remote for full functionality. I had to make a new faceplate since the PGR35B needs a 3" hole instead of 3.5". A brief description of my faceplate and pic is here - Wiring speakers and use of a Bluetooth amp, Post # 13.

    I don't remember what size hole, and the two wires go to a hot with key on and ground

    Thanks. Since my radio circuit is fused for 25A and my radio itself is fused for 15A, I think I'l just hook the voltmeter to the accessory hot wire and ground on the radio circuit and see how that works.

    The 2 panels going between the driver and passenger on the transmission tunnel are held by plastic clips molded into the panels and some tape strips. There are also 2 pushpins holding the top of the trans tunnel covers up under the two dash cover pieces each side of the windshield mount. IIRC, the safest way to remove them is to carefully lift straight up, starting from the rear, until you feel the tape give way. Each panel also has a large plastic clip molded into it up near the radio cubby area and after lifting and freeing the rear portion pf the panel, you then need to pull back on the panel to free the large clip. Use caution just in case I remembered incorrectly.