Posts by BKL

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I, too, have the DDM Works shifter. Initially, I wasn't sure if I really liked it as it seemed harder to shift and occasionally seemed reluctant to downshift from 2nd to 1st. Now, with 10K+ miles on the shifter, I've gotten much more used to it and rarely encounter a problem downshifting into 1st. I'm not sure I'd really like going back to the original long-throw shifting pattern.
    As far as differences between the two brands, I would have to agree with Flybuddy . The physics of the shift operation shouldn't really differ unless one manufacturer is using some amazing, new, reduced-friction material.

    My dealer didn't require a lift to change out my rear pinion seal. They used a jack and jack stand in the rear. It took them close to 4 hours or so since mine was only the second one they have done. They said polaris warranty only pays them close to 2 hours of work time.

    It seems I have more mileage than most of my dealer's other Slingshot owners as most of the warranty work I've had done has typically been the first time they've had to deal with the problem. Guess I'm just lucky!


    Also, @Otter,from the old site, posted the following - "FWIW, I found that the SS rear wheel bearing with the speed sensor magnet ring is the same bearing as used in most model years of the Mazda Miata (front wheel bearing). Can be had for as low as $20.00 online.


    Don't know what the other bearing is though." Be nice if folks can figure out the identifying part number(s).

    At 20K miles. dealer replaced my rear rotor saying the noise was from a warped rear rotor. Noise started back up a short time later. During my 25K mile service, the mechanic thinks new one is warped, too. Asked me if I had driven thru a puddle with a hot brake rotor, and I responded I don't ride if it's raining unless it starts raining when I'm already out and don't usually ride if rain is likely.
    At least they replaced the faulty brake sensors and I was able to drive the 100+ miles home without losing the Cruise Control. My angle drive is still leaking, but they claim they need a lift to work on it and are trying to convince the dealer to buy one.

    If you have any concerns a relay (or fuse) is not properly seated, you can try lightly flaring out (bending) the relay/fuse connectors in hopes of getting it to reseat more securely. If you try this, remember to only slightly bend the contacts.

    I felt the same, but for another reason @BKL!


    I'm in education! So I'll be looking into this... Will be asking if any HISD schools do such a thing. Hope it's not a conflict of interest or anything... We will see...

    I wouldn't expect HISD to have any internal rules against HISD employees take advantage of the Auto Shop students. After all, you're providing project material to help the students learn. If there is a policy concern, you should probably be able to use a different ISD.

    I forgot to mention that my neighbor teaches Auto Shop at a local High School, but I can't remember which one! I was talking to him a couple months ago and thinking he'd been our neighbor for about 1 years and was shocked to learn he moved in 3 yrs ago! My Wife and I stay up late every night and sleep late, so we don;t see the neighbors real often. :D

    Have you tried contacting local schools/colleges that have Auto Body programs?


    Sometimes they will do jobs for very cheap as your vehicle would be canvas for the students to learn on.


    Usually the instructors make sure you get a quality product back.[/b]

    I am ashamed to admit that I had forgotten all about using a local high school or college auto shop program. I say ashamed because my family has a history in the teaching profession and I should've remembered that. My Dad and relatives used such programs when I was growing up. The only drawback to such a route is they usually need the vehicle for an extended period of time.

    @MiM, I got a cheap paint job! I'd rate my paint job about a 3, meaning from 3 ft or more it looks OK. Closer than 3 ft and you can see the flaws. As long as people look at it from a distance or at least no too closely, people seem to think it looks nice. I've only had a few people comment on the paint. I asked around the Spring area at several different places and got estimates ranging between $1500 up to $3K. PM me if you want more info or pics of my paint job.


    If you have OCD, you're NOT going to be happy with anything less than immaculate! Save your money and get the best paint job you can afford. The Maaco $299 paint job might include a light sanding, Check here for their various paint services - Auto Painting & Collision Repair | Auto Painting Services by Maaco.com
    Also, you may find some painters who want to just paint the panels in place on the vehicle. This might work using a flexible coating like DIP, but I wouldn't recommend it for hard paints since the body pieces aren't permanently fastened to each other like a typical car and the vibrations of the pieces against each other may well cause problems.
    If you're doing it locally and are willing to take the body apart yourself, you should hopefully save significantly as most painters have never done a Slingshot disassembly. You should be able to save even more if you pre-sand the pieces. There are several threads on body disassembly on the old site (haven't looked here). If you have access to a pickup or large SUV, you should be able to easily carry all the parts. I went to Goodwill and bought a few used bedspreads to protect the various pieces.

    The New Thread button is right in front of the Reply button. I've hit it several times when I meant to select Reply.

    One pair for each pair of HIDs. The connectors are the same. I was pleased to see the reference to polarity sometimes being reversed. I have encountered this in the past and it took me awhile to figure it out.

    The problem with the "true" low psi electric supercharger is the current needed to run them. Everything comes at a cost. You would have so much draw on you engine running alternators to generate the current needed to run even the smallest blowers. It's just not there yet. And may not get there in our lifetime.

    That's the advantage the systems from Robftss have over Thomas Knight's offerings. Robftss has developed a motor controller/AGM battery charger to allow the two batteries dedicated to the electric supercharger to rapidly recharge from the main alternator/battery setup. It is supposedly designed to support frequent/non-continuous operation of the electric supercharger in a typical street environment unlike racing use where the electric supercharger cannot meet the higher usage. Mr. Knight leaves the battery side of the operation up to the individual customer and doesn't seem to offer an integrated electronic controller. I think the current state the art for these electric superchargers is still in the realm of the tinkerer/experimenter and not necessarily ready for general use.
    Neat idea if they can ever implement it cheaply enough.

    Try Googling for "D'Ecosse relay wiring". You should find his solutions for keeping headlights off until the engine is started. He has posted electrical solutions on numerous motorcycle forums, definitely knows his stuff and is widely considered an electrics God!

    I've been following electric superchargers for several years. The typical EBay offering is usually nothing more than a bilge blower, aka a simple fan, and is not capable of generating any boost.
    Some automobile manufacturers are now developing electric superchargers to augment conventional turbochargers to reduce turbolag and maintain usable boost at low rpms.
    A couple of individuals have been experiementing with electric superchargers for years. See this thread - Hybrid Turbos?
    I'd originally thought about trying one of Robftss' electric superchargers on my Slingshot, but by the time I buy the developers kit and try to get a tune from @MEFIburn, the cost is about the same as a Hahn Stage 1 Turbo w/o muffler.