Posts by BKL

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    Here in the Houston area, our average humidity is around 78% year-round. We actually have a few "winter" months where the humidity seems bearable. We usually hit the 80s beginning in April and stay above that until mid-Oct +/- a few weeks. Although I grew up w/o AC, I've spent too many years enjoying AC comfort and don't have much desire or energy to do much outside once it gets hot and humid.

    I've managed to avoid the live ones, so far. I have hit a dead one with one of my wheels and it felt like hitting a large rock! Last Saturday night, I top a hill and someone had hit something in the oncoming lane and parts of it were in my lane. On my return trip, I realized it was a (presumably wild) hog, probably around 150+ lbs. Just glad I didn't hit one of them.
    Back around 2010 or 2011, I was on a night ride on my SV650 from Gatlinburg, TN over to the Dragon and was coming down the Foothills Parkway toward Chilhowee and 29 when a bear cub rolls out of the bushes and down the embankment towards the road. I managed to avoid it and don't think Mom would have been very forgiving if I had hit it. It was a little unnerving.

    If I choose to turbo, I'll be getting an intercooler. I just want to know how much a difference in temp the intercooler makes. I can see how compressing air will increase its temperature and just wanted to know how much cooling the intercooler provides. Like I posted earlier, the air doesn't take very long to move thru the intercooler and, since air doesn't radiate as efficiently as cooling liquid in a normal vehicle radiator, I was wondering just how much a temp drop can be achieved?
    Since intercoolers are so popular on street cars but seem to be missing from high HP dragsters, I assume the intercooler is effective on street vehicles but is not effective at the extremely high air flow rates involved in a top fuel dragster. Again, just curious.

    Purchased 6.22.15. Local trips only, 3-5 hrs 2-3 times per week. Just went over 21000 miles last night. I also had 3-4 weeks where the body was off and I didn't ride. So far, I'm running about the same yearly miles I did on two wheels.

    I don't believe that is what he is looking for. I think he is trying to figure out the effective temperature drop across the inter-cooler to gauge if (in his mind and wallet) it is a necessity. For that he would need the intake charge temperature after the turbo, then again at the plenum.


    That is closer to what I was wondering about. I understand that to run anything above 3-4 lbs Boost, the intercooler is necessary. I was just wondering how much it can actually cool any airflow during such a short exposure in the intercooler. Just curious. Inquiring mind wants to know. :)

    No great hurry and don't want you to feel pressured. I was just thinking about using an Infrared thermometer to just point at the entrance into the intercooler and then at the exit, or at least I would if I had a turbo'd Slinsgshot! I'm still trying to figure out if I can juggle the finances enough to get some form of forced induction.

    As I understand the warranty, it's good for 2 years and unlimited mileage, so you're getting close to the end of the warranty if yours was one of the earliest builds. Per this Polaris website, the warranty begins from the date of SALE and Polaris makes no mention of restrictions other than 2 yrs, unlimited miles from date of sale.
    > 2015 Polaris Slingshot

    After having read about loose-fitting breakers, I tried bending the breaker legs out just slightly to help reduce the chance of the breaker being loose.

    I haven't reached my one year ownership anniversary, but if I don't go turbo, I plan on giving serious consideration to extending my warranty before it runs out.

    I was thinking about that recall ... I hard pass on that since I went HIDs. Sorry to hear that @SlingJockey

    You should still be able to get the relay fix. I had HIDs installed and got the relay fix. (OF course, maybe I just lucked out with my dealer. I told them I had HIDS just before they started the fix).
    When the mechanic reconnected the HIDs to the wiring, he connected them the way the connectors are designed and no lights. For some reason, my HID connectors hooked up the opposite of the standard connectors. Once I showed them on one headlight, they fixed the rest.

    When I first tested LED bulbs for the Center headlights, my Center headlights would sometimes go off if I went over 60 mph and come back on at about 40 mph and stay on as long as I didn't go over 60 mph. When the Center headlights went off, the outer auxiliary headlights would stay on, even though the original wiring had all 4 headlights on the same circuit. I tried some HIDS and the same thing happened. Now that I have had the relay fix, I haven't yet had a recurrence. I have since installed the Cycle Springs Canadian Headlight kit w/ all 6 LED bulbs.

    Thanks for the clarification. Generally speaking, if my BF light comes on, restarting the engine allows the BF light to stay off and the Cruise Control to work until I have to actually use the brakes. I'll need to talk to the dealer when my warranty parts finally come in (front angle drive seal & replacement rear rotor).

    As some dealers will claim, relying on info from Forums is a gamble at best! Outdated, rumor-based info!
    In all seriousness, I feel Forums are a great mechanism for owners to exchange info about their experiences with a product.
    I'm not aware of any change in the brake switches, but manufacturers slipstream changes like that all the time. That way they can just claim the change is a product improvement as opposed to being a needed fix for a problem.

    Before I had the Headlight Recall fix, whne I was running HIDs and sometimes when i switched to LEDs, my Center lights would sometimes go off if I was going over 60 and then come back on once I slowed to about 40 as long as I didn't exceed 60 again. The odd thing was, the outer headlights would stay on, even though all four lights were then on the same circuit. I finally moved the outer headlights to the Fog Light circuit so I would always have a backup. The problem cleared up after I had the Headlight recall fix. Never could figure out why all four headlights never went out when the Centers did.

    It seems the magnetic brake switches Polaris uses work fine until they start not working. Mine worked fine until about 19500 miles and I think my dealer adjusted them because the BF light didn't come back on during the trip home. A day or so later, the light started coming back on and the Cruise Control would stop. After turning the engine off and restarting, the light usually stay off for a while and the CC works until I have to use the brakes to come to a stop, at which point the BF light usually comes back on.
    Several folks ( rabtech among them, IIRC) have switched to regular contact switches with custom fabbed brackets and that seems to have solved the problem. Check this thread on the old forum - Brake Failure Warning Light ( common problem / solution found ) | Page 8 | Polaris Slingshot Forum

    I had been leaning towards the Goodyear Eagle F1s before I decided to try the Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs. Disocunt Tire had the Goodyears in the Base Stock sizes, but I wanted to go to a larger, matched tire on all 3 tires. The Goodyears have a 45000 mile warranty which Discount Tire reduces by half if the tires are mounted on a vehicle where they can't be rotated. I liked the Goodyears due to the hopefully longer tire life. If theGoodyears are indeed good for 22,500 miles, that's the equivalent of twice the Kenda mileage I got on my rears and they offer much better traction.

    Whats the widest tire I can put on the stock SL rim keeping the same height?

    Use Discount Tire's Tire Calculator - Tire Size Calculator & Converter, Tire Size Conversion | Discount Tire.
    Enter the stock tire size and then try different potential candidate tire sizes. The key is to stay within a few percent of the stock diameter. For example, I replaced my base 265/35R18 tire with a 295/30R18. The new tire is 24.97" compared to the stock tire diameter of 25.3". At the same RPMs that yielded 65 mph with the stock tire, the new 295 tire does 64.14 mph. In terms of percentage, the 295/30 tire is 1.3% smaller than the 265/35 stock tire. You should also keep in mind the maximum tire size recommended for your wheel rim width. The tire manufacturer's websites usually list this info.
    I replaced my stock base tire with another Kenda at around 10000 miles and then replaced it with a Sumitomo HTR Z III 295/30R18 tire. I've got almost 21000 miles on my stock Base front tires and have ordered Sumitomo HTR Z III 225/45R17 tires to replace them.

    After reading this thread and taking a look at the AeroCatch product, I found this on EBay -
    Universal Black Racing Mount Bonnet Carbon Fiber Hood Pins Latch Key Locking Kit | eBay
    I've been thinking for a while about installing some rear hood pins to make sure the hood can't pop up if the latches let go, but haven't gotten around to filming the vertical motion as the hood opens to make sure it lifts vertically before starting to lift forward. I was also looking for something with sufficient contact area to spread any pressure evenly around the hole to minimize chances of cracking the hood. The Ebay units are reportedly 2.5", so this may be a good start if I want to place some wider reinforcement to the under side of the hood. I was thinking about trying to locate the hood pins in the black accent strips towards the rear portion of the hood and fabricating some type of mount that would rest on the two frame tubes on each side of the engine compartment.
    EBay also has locking pins similar to the AeroCatch product starting around $20.