Posts by BKL

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    One pair for each pair of HIDs. The connectors are the same. I was pleased to see the reference to polarity sometimes being reversed. I have encountered this in the past and it took me awhile to figure it out.

    The problem with the "true" low psi electric supercharger is the current needed to run them. Everything comes at a cost. You would have so much draw on you engine running alternators to generate the current needed to run even the smallest blowers. It's just not there yet. And may not get there in our lifetime.

    That's the advantage the systems from Robftss have over Thomas Knight's offerings. Robftss has developed a motor controller/AGM battery charger to allow the two batteries dedicated to the electric supercharger to rapidly recharge from the main alternator/battery setup. It is supposedly designed to support frequent/non-continuous operation of the electric supercharger in a typical street environment unlike racing use where the electric supercharger cannot meet the higher usage. Mr. Knight leaves the battery side of the operation up to the individual customer and doesn't seem to offer an integrated electronic controller. I think the current state the art for these electric superchargers is still in the realm of the tinkerer/experimenter and not necessarily ready for general use.
    Neat idea if they can ever implement it cheaply enough.

    Try Googling for "D'Ecosse relay wiring". You should find his solutions for keeping headlights off until the engine is started. He has posted electrical solutions on numerous motorcycle forums, definitely knows his stuff and is widely considered an electrics God!

    I've been following electric superchargers for several years. The typical EBay offering is usually nothing more than a bilge blower, aka a simple fan, and is not capable of generating any boost.
    Some automobile manufacturers are now developing electric superchargers to augment conventional turbochargers to reduce turbolag and maintain usable boost at low rpms.
    A couple of individuals have been experiementing with electric superchargers for years. See this thread - Hybrid Turbos?
    I'd originally thought about trying one of Robftss' electric superchargers on my Slingshot, but by the time I buy the developers kit and try to get a tune from @MEFIburn, the cost is about the same as a Hahn Stage 1 Turbo w/o muffler.

    3 hours to remove the engine. 3 hours to put it back. No need to remove the transmission. Just put a jack under the transmission to support it and slide the engine right out. When you put the new clutch and flywheel onto the engine just use the alignment tool to line the clutch disk up and tightened it all down.



    Interesting. I had misunderstood previous postings as I thought the engine and trans came out as a single unit. I still think disassembling the entire front end to get to the clutch is stoopid.

    'Dave@DDMWorks' asked "Do you know how it was determined that the head bolts were not torqued properly?"
    Unfortunately, I don't know how the head bolt torque was measured. I merely reposted something I had read that seemed like other folks should be made aware of. Thanks for explaining more about torquing fasteners such as head bolts. Based on videos I've seen of the engine manufacturing process, I would have expected the head bolts to have been installed and torqued using a mechanized process to ensure proper tightening.
    This situation raises one of the problems with info found on the Internet. I reposted what seemed like useful info, w/o a complete understanding of all of the related background information.
    One last final question. When installing an aftermarket forced induction unit, either supercharger or turbocharger, do you feel the head bolts should be checked or replaced?

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    @Dave@DDMWorks ... what upgrades are "recommended" at this new power level ....


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    IIRC, there is a post over on the other site reporting that during a turbo installation, some of the factory head bolts were discovered to have not been properly torqued, meaning that the engine could have self-destructed due to what would have been very unlikely to have been discovered after the fact.
    Here's a link - Attention Turbo Users. You might want to check this. | Polaris Slingshot Forum

    As a kid, I had a donut route. Twice a week, I would receive a delivery of about 15-20 dozen donuts in 1/2 dozen boxes. I carried them door-to-door until I sold out. Some regular customers always bought the same thing and I always eventually sold all the donuts. I bought them for 25 cents per 1/2 dozen box and sold them for 32 cents. A yeast-raised, chocolate glazed donut was one of my best sellers. I walked my tail off and was glad my Mom would at least drop me off at the start of my route. The only trouble was as soon as I sold five boxes, I bought a box for myself!
    I enjoyed that donut route much more than I ever did my newspaper route. I delivered a weekly paper to approximately 2000 houses in my subdivision. It usually took me and my brother and sister two days after school to get them all delivered. Even after splitting earnings with my siblings, I felt rich making $6-7 a week. When you figured how long it took to deliver all of the newspapers, we were making far less than minimum wage during the mid-1960s, but at least we had some spending money.

    Just noticed you said 13 months, 23k miles. I am 12 months, 18k miles, though down a month for the angle drive. I am a bad ass rider. That makes you more bad ass than me. Hmm. Got a month to catch up. Maybe I should visit you, twice. That might do it.

    Mine has been down almost 2 months of non-driving time due to traveling w/o the Slingshot and while I had it apart for painting. There are a couple of Slingshot owners who have put a much larger amount of miles on theirs, but I don't remember the timeframes.

    I had an intermittent brake failure light lately and didn't realize until riding with everyone in blairsville that when the light was in in the instrument cluster I had no brake lights..... did the diy Napa switch today and all is good hopefully for the next 19k miles

    I've been waiting for replacement brake sensors for the last month+ and keep having to restart my Slingshot after a hard stop to reset the BF light. IIRC, my rear brake lights still operate correctly when the BF light is on. I'll try to remember to check during tonight's ride, just in case. Checked my rear brake lights after the BF light came on and the brake lights are indeed operating properly, even after the BF light activates.