Posts by BKL

    IF someone has started using Peltier thermoelectric coolers/heaters in car seats, I'm surprised someone hasn't offered seat-pads to bring the same capability to regular seats.

    You have motorcycle mirrors? I'd love to see a pic of those. You have one posted somewhere?

    Here's my most recent pic -

    Here's a link to the mirrors -, but they're currently listed as Unavailable. Due to their design, they tend to want to stick up along the stem, but that doesn't bother me. I was looking for mirrors that didn't seem so bulky and when these seemed to fit my need, I didn't bother looking for anything better.

    I'll go grab a pic in the carport with my TD Top now in place. I grabbed a pic, but it didn't come out too well in the dark. Not enough detail to warrant uploading.

    The only real drawback to the mirrors is they are cheap and the black paint has allowed some rust, so they could use a repaint, but the sliding cover over the locknut at the base doesn't come off, making it a little harder to touch up. With my NASCAR style windshield's tilt to match the general tilt of the TD tops' frame, the passenger mirror is visible between the top's tilted front frame tube and the right edge of the windshield, but it still provides me enough visibility, especially since I have a 4-panel multi-mirror mounted to the front crossbar of the top which just about eliminates a need for side mirrors with its wide field of view.

    I built a scoop to cover all of the top holes there. It was not worth the effort, there is very little air there. I got very little air flow there. The system that I made using the mirror stalks to mount really does work and gives you plenty of air. Pictures are on here somewhere. Made from a 20 degree 1 1/2 inch coupling a straight coupling and a couple of real short straight sections to connect those and the vac hose. Attached to the mirror stalks with zip tyes. It works like RAM AIR.

    I think I remember seeing a pic of those, but I am now using regular motorcycle mirrors and don't have the structure of the OEM mirror stalks to hold the tubes. I may try something similar anyway.

    I wonder how the cooling works? I have both heated and cooled seats in my truck and my vet but I'm not sure how the cooling works technically. It does cool however.

    I took a look at Polaris' listing/description for the heated/cooled seats and when I saw the phrase - "

    Thermoelectric technology is used to cool or heat the seat combined with flexible Graphene material to disperse it for full coverage," I can only assume Polaris is using a version of a Peltier CPU cooler sometimes seen on personal computers. A Peltier produces heat on one side and cools on the other side, so I assume Polaris is reversin the voltage flow to either heat or cool the seat close to the occupant's body parts. I've seen such units used in portable coolers, but haven't before seen its use in a vehicle seat. Here's a good explanatory link - https://thermoelectricsolution…hermoelectric-technology/. For more info, Google "solid-state cooling/heating in vehicle seats".

    I can't see any reason such a seat couldn't be installed in any vehicle with the appropriate wiring.

    BKL have you brought any 'fresh air' into the cockpit area?
    these are pictures of what we did on Harvey's Slingshot

    I have this set up on both sides of the Slingshot

    and also a 3/4 hose that come into the hole around
    the clutch
    peddle. Not very fancy but no one sees

    unless you point it out to them and dose keep
    air movement where there is not much.

    I can't remember who first did it, but I have a small 2" gauge pod and an AC vent installed under the driver side splash-guard (misplaced my supplies so I haven't done the passenger side yet), but I still get a significant amount of hot air in the cockpit. I've been thinking about trying an intake hose thru the top holes in the splash-guard, but just haven't gotten around to it.

    Put the UP Top back on Sling I. I have not plugged the firewall holes on Sling II yet. On these hot days the difference is night and day between Sling I and Sling II

    I blocked the dash cubby area from engine compartment heat, but still feel a lot of heat round my legs in the cockpit.

    Do you have a short list or thread on what you blocked?

    I have a TD Top and installed this multi-panel mirror - It's been in place for over 4 years now and some of the silvering is gone from the edges of the mirrors, but it provides excellent rear view coverage and virtually eliminates blindspots.

    I drilled holes for the screws to fasten the L-shaped brackets and didn't think about using some screw-type hose clamps to fasten the brackets to the top frame w/o needing to drill any holes.

    Keep in mind that new speakers likely won't solve your "popping" problem. That's almost certainly emanating from the amp. Also, if you don't add power, you should look to efficiency -- the amount of sound per 1 watt of power, often displayed as XXdb/1W. I have Cerwin Vega separates and the midbass units are rated as 94 db efficiency -- pretty loud for one watt of power! I doubt the stock amp, whatever its rating, puts out more than about 10 clean watts per channel.

    I agree with dalancroft, efficient speakers produce more sound voulme for a given output. This is usually identified by the speaker's Sensitivity rating. a typical speaker's Sensitivity will be below 87-88 dB, with higher Sensitivity speakers going up to around 94 dB. The difference between 87 dB and 94 dB at the same output level is definitely noticeable.

    If your radio or amp is compatible with 2ohm speakers, you will get more output from the radio or amp. I recently replaced my 4 ohm Rockford Fosgate 6.5" speakers with 2 ohm JBL Stadium GTO620 speakers and my Clarions XC2410 amp is rated to produce 75W/channel compared to 50W/channel at 4 ohms. The new speakers cost around $268 for 2 pairs, but the combination of their 95 dB Sensitivity and the extra power the 2 ohm speakers get from my equipment means I get good volume at highway speeds w/o having to really crank up the volume. Just make sure your radio/amp can handle 2 ohm speakers.

    I'd think a Safety Recall would mean hey should have replaced them free w/o worrying about a receipt or anything else since the recall was because of UNSAFE design. Use your new receipt and mail a copy to HF HQ and ask why you were charged for a recall.

    On a somewhat related theme - My Daughter pointed this out to me while we were putting the hood back on after installing the ZZP Billet Hood Hinges. It felt more like dirt than any type of leak and I can't say I remember seeing it before, but paranoia requires me to ask more experienced folk.:/ Has anyone else noticed similar issues? This spot seems to be the only area on the engine block where there is much of a shelf to trap dirt.

    I, too, have 4 HF 3-ton jack-stands, 2 of which my Daughter left at a friend's house. I just checked to 2 still in my garage and they're part number 38846, so it looks like mine are not part of the recall. Hopefully, the other 2 will also be OK.

    Speaking of recalls, today I received a second notice recall from Polaris about getting my battery fuse checked.

    After finally taking delivery of a replacement e-brake boot from Amazon, I installed my NRG e-brake handle. Unfortunately, I had to use the stock black e-brake release button instead of the shiny aluminum one that came with the NRG handle.

    I also spent a good portion of the afternoon trying to find what I had done with the bolts to mount my TD Canvas Top. I thought I had placed them somewhere I wouldn't have trouble finding them and after looking in my computer room, my garage and a couple of checks in the Slingshot's glove-box, I checked the glove-box for the third time and realized I had somehow managed to overlook the plastic bag with the bolts in the glove-box!:/

    Just finished my response to your Conversation. I'll copy everything here is case it might help someone else.

    A word of warning - As of 2 years ago (when I did my install) no Slingshot owner had successfully gotten the control functions (shutting down engine if unsafe AFR/Boost occurs) to work properly on the Slingshot. This was reportedly due to the Polaris/MEFIburn tune conflicting with what the SCG-1 is trying to do to shutdown the engine. I originally read about this in a post from rabtech and I don't remember ever seeing any posts about successfully combining the two. As a result, the SCG-1 provides AFR and Boost info and can log AFR, Boost and engine RPM with the PL-1 data logger module.

    I tapped power from the Yellow/Black headlight power wire added after the headlight recall fix. -


    It was easy for me to access this wire since it was an add-on to the original wiring harness, but I think it will be inside the harness for model years after 2015. I felt confident using this wire since the Headlight recall changed the load on this wire to around 8 Amps or so once I switched to LEDs and the additional power needed for the SCG-1 still leaves the circuit comfortably below the 20A breaker the circuit uses.

    I looked under the hood and found a wire I added to the main engine ground point and I'm pretty sure that is where I grounded the SCG-1. Here's a pic -


    Here's Innovate Motorsports' video on Setting up & Tuning the SCG-1 -

    This YouTube video shows how to set the Shift Light RPM value starting around 7:57 -

    This guy also shows real-time monitoring of the SCG-1 data flow using a PC, but I didn't pay enough attention to see if he explained how he got it to work as I was focused more on setting the Shift Light RPM. rabtech posted to use the ignition wire off the 1st cylinder to allow the gauge to measure rpm, but I haven't been able to relocate his post here. I did find a couple threads form the old site -…ire-tap.7193/#post-149398, but this thread didn't say the color of the wire to tap at cylinder #1.

    Here's another Thread -…ation.177947/#post-902963. Thione say use the White w/Brown strip going from Pin1 on the J2 (middle) ECU connector to coil #1.

    Here's a section of the Slingshot Engine Schematic from my 2015-17 Service manual showing the coil wiring and the J2 connector to the ECU - &thumbnail=1

    and here's a pic of Coil #1 where I tapped the White w/brown Strip wire at the Coil -


    I tapped at the Coil since it was much more accessible and only had to open a little of the wire wrap and then made my connection, insulated it and rewrapped it in the wire wrap I used solid wire, but flexible stranded wire is recommended since it's much less likely to break from vibration. Tapping near the J2 ECU connector will reduce the length of the wire and reduces the chances of the wire picking up noise from other wires.

    Here's a pic of where I mounted the SCG-1's MAP sensor -


    Here's where I tapped a vacuum line off the Throttle Body -


    I don't remember which turbo kit you have, but be VERY CAREFUL to route your vacuum lines according to the instructions that came with your Turbo kit! Different kits use different routings for the vacuum lines depending on their setup/boost level desired.

    Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Thanks for the clarification. That had occurred to me since having the set screw in the rear wouldn't allow it to have any adjustment on how far the hood opened,especially with the set screw in the rear it would only impact closing the hood. Here's the first pic in the install instructions from page 2 of the instructions I received via email on Dec 3, 2019 -

    . Although the picture doesn't show the new strut fastened to that hole, it certainly looked to me like the strut was lined up with that hole, so I followed the pic. After examining the rest of the instructions again, I now see that the rest of the install pics show the mount and strut properly positioned. My mistake lay in misinterpreting that initial picture and then missing the difference in the rest of the install pics.:/

    I'm now going to go switch everything around to match the rest of the install pics and will hopefully post success later.

    I feel kind of silly having focused so much on the first pic that I didn't notice the rest of the pics. Once I ran into clearance problems, I assumed the problems were due to my combination of accessories and not my misinterpretation of that first pic.

    Update - Success! The hood hinge crossbar simply slipped in place with no clearance issues! It's amazing how easy an install can be when properly following the instructions! Now all I need to do is wait for my Daughter to wake up so we can attach the hood and make final adjustments.

    Turns out my problems were caused by my misinterpretation of trhe very first picture in the instructions. Following @Kyle D's correction allowed the hood hinge crossbar and mounts to fit w/o problem.

    I’ve run into a problem trying to install the ZZP Billet Hood Hinges I bought during last year’s Black Friday sale. I have a Hahn turbo setup and a MadSatd Ultimate Bumper & Grill and the 2 items end up causing problems trying to install the Zzp Billet Hood Hinge set.

    Looking at Pic #1, the clamps for the Hahn intercooler protrudes far enough that the ZZP hinge mounts do not place the stock Polaris hinge crossbar low enough and in front of the intercooler clamps. I had previously installed the MadStad (now Twist Dynamics) Hood hinge set which used the original stock mounts and placed the hod hinge crossbar in the correct position.

    Looking at Pic #2, I placed the stock mount next to the ZZP mount and as can be seen, the ZZP hinge locates the stock hood hinge crossbar further back than the stock mounts, resulting in interference with the Hahn intercooler clamps.

    Looking at Pic #3, the higher positioning of the ZZP mounts hood hinge crossbar means the front strut hits the rear strut.

    With pressure, it looks like I can get the rear of the ZZP mount to line up with the frame mounting hole, or I think I could once I can get around the positioning issues caused by the MadStad Ultimate Bumper brackets (Pic #4).

    As Pic #5 shows, the ZZP mount is basically at the rear of its slot because the MadStad Bumper bracket doesn’t allow the ZZP mount to be any further forward.

    It looks like I need to remove some of the lower front edge of the ZZP mount and the forward edge of the rear bracket foot to clear the headlight mounting crossbar to clear the TD Bumper bracket and also need to extend the mounting slots in the ZZP mount so they go farther back and allow the stock hood hinge crossbar to clear the intercooler clamps (Areas that I think need removal/extending marked with Green lines). This would also place the latch bolt a little more forward of its current positioning (see Pic #6),

    but there is enough room to move the stock latches forward to allow the latch bolt to engage the front hood latches.

    Removing this extra material will not be an easy task as I don’t have any metal milling tools/capability and will probably need to just drill holes and then file everything smooth or use a saw to cut away material/extend the slots (not necessarily any easier since the mounts are so thick). Either way will be a PITA. I’d really like to use the ZZP Billet Hood Hinges since they don’t require a gas cartridge for proper operation.

    Has anybody else run into this situation or have any suggestions on getting everything to fit w/o doing a lot of machining/filing?

    My Daughter thinks I should try using the stock brackets first to see if I can get things to work w/o a lot of difficult work, but I'm not sure how the stock mounts might affect the hinge geometry and opening range.

    If your tire starts getting too close to the suspension components, either use a spacer to shift the wheel over by the thickness of the spacer or use a wheel with a smaller offset to accomplish the same thing. This link shows the change in wheel positioning due to a reduction in offset -…heel_width=9-5&offset2=35. In this example, I used the stock S model wheel/tire specs and simply changed the offset from 45mm (orange in the link pic) to 35mm (green in the link pic).

    Being cheap, I have used an American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra style wheel (17x10.5, 28mm Offset) with a Nitto 555 G2 315/35ZR17 tire. I have also tried a Circuit Performance CP32 wheel (18x10.5, 35mm Offset) with an Achilles ATR Sport 2 305/30ZR18 tire. Due to the smaller offset compared to the Polaris wheels, the wheel/tire centers a little over to the left with the right edge of the tire being in pretty much the same location. As others have posted, the taller 35 profile seems to provide a better ride and mounting the 305/30 tire was a PITA for the installers, who needed to use a compression band around the tire circumference to get the tire to seat properly against the wheel. allows you to specify your stock and candidate wheel and tire specs and provides a visualization of how the wheel/tire combos will be positioned compared to each other. Unfortunately, WillThetFit's speedometer calculator is nto accurate and Discount Tire's Tire Size calculator ( is much more accurate, but doesn't show the impact of different offsets.

    Unfortunately, I don't know the specifics of the LEDs used by Polaris for the Interior light set, but, LEDs typically draw far less power for the same light output as a regular halogen-type bulb. Using headlights as an example, the H9 center headlights each draw around 6 Amps compared to their LED equivalent that probably draw less than half that. A car's dome interior light using a regular bulb would probably draw around 1/2 Amp compared to an LED setup that would probably draw around 1/4 Amp.

    Here's an example of current draw for a light strip that uses an 30 LEDs in a 1 meter length -

    Hope this helps a little.