Posts by rabtech

    Hey I replied on the other thread. I may know why I don't get an error. I am running a real brake light switch. I tossed that crappy magnetic switch. I used to get that squiggly symbol. After I changed the magnetic junk out and installed the NAPA brake switch it never bothered me again

    I never had that issue. I saw that others did when they changed anything on the brake light circuit. I run a completely different center fin light setup and I have my Blind Spot Lane Assist system hooked to all the lights. Still no issues.

    I bet you got it under control. If you need pictures of any part of the install just let me know. I can also shoot you my cell number if you want it in case you get stuck on something. Not saying I have all the answers but maybe the one you might need. :D

    Im also wondering if I would be ok with the RP in the transmission now.... It has been in it a while and I haven't noticed any issues... But I also like Tripods statement.....

    My tranny shifts great so why mess with what works?!

    I run Royal Purple in both the tranny and in the final.... It "seems" to be ok. I have only had it in the transmission for a few thousand miles.....



    I do use a different weight in the transmission..... I run 75/90 in the transmission and I run the 75/140 in the final drive....

    Im glad to see a dealer (or even a salesman such as Spencer) posting and being an active vendor... I know his hands are tied a bit on what he can and can't price or say but at least he is participating....


    When the blue comes in be sure and let me know... Even if its sold i would ride over and take a picture or two...

    Here is the deal on standalone's. Will they work yes, will they work great with the slingshot yes, especially the haltec because it is a can buss system like the slingshot. But 99.9% don't need it. Unless you're building your engine and going for big HP their is no real advantage and its $$$$$ Bob's tunes have been tested and tested and adjusted and tested again and again. Yes its a canned tune but we are making very little HP on these stock engines and a one off tune is not needed.


    Not only do you need to buy the system but if you don;t know how to tune you will need to rent a dyno and hire a tuner to tune it for you, witch can easily add 1500-2k+

    see...... told y'all.... :D:D:D:D:D:thumbsup:


    Thanks for weighing in.....

    yep,,, just got on my soapbox...... I'm off of it now.... :D:D:D


    Im not against any of these aftermarket solutions..... I just wanted to let everyone know that there is a much larger issue than just an engine controller......

    And I do like the idea of having a standard OBD2 plug. And I would like to have the ability to make my own changes. But not enough to pay the thousands for a total solution that isn't just a stand alone ECU and included all the safety features of the SS.

    One of the reasons no one has a total package solution that encompasses the "Engine" and "Safety Nanny" is because its alot of work for very little payback. I can't imagine over a hand full of people that would pay the real $4000 or more pricetag for a real "total switch out" solution. So why would any company put the effort into reinventing the wheel. We already have a solution that comes with the SS. Bob can program it for a few hundred dollars. And it keeps everything in check. And he has already said he would make future changes to the programming at a reduced cost. If your tuning your bike every week you may have some deeper issues than an ECU.


    And I bet if make the call and speak to Bob about any custom build your working on he can build you a calibration that will get you close enough to run and dyno. Then you can carry it to a dyno and make a few runs and send him the data and the ECU to refine it even further. The only cost im sure would be shipping.


    That is my 02 cents on the whole ECU topic.

    Having an ECU that runs the Slingshot engine isn't a big deal. It's having the Polaris sensors to work with a standalone ECU. That portion is going to fail if you change the ECU. Basically Haltech is a great company. But they won't be able to interface with any of the Polaris sensors such as yaw and abs and lots of other things. And trust me ,, you don't want to run naked. You need Polaris's safty nanny to keep things in check.

    50/50 has polyester which absorb gasses and when thrown in the dryer the polyester expands and releases the gasses which will cause the screen ink to bleed through the shirt and damage the image. 50/50 works best for sublimation and DTG(AKA Direct to Garment printing) and of course rhinestones and vinyl applications!!!
    wink-squared



    So y'all want rhinestone? :p :p :p :p :p :p

    I will keep it nice looking. I like a shirt that is clean and organized looking so you can wear it everyday. Some shirts you see just don't look like shirts you can wear in all audiences.

    No 50/50 eh?




    I don't think so. They will be Gildan (spelling may be off) and they are 6 ounce material. You will like it. And I am getting all the sizes from small to 5xl.


    Sounds like I need to have a smaller logo on the front pocket area and have the big logo on the back. I think I MAY have two choices for the back logo. Don't know that part yet.

    I am going to make this first run all in black shirts. I just left the place here and they said the logo would pop more on the black shirt. I will let y'all know how layout looks Monday. They are working with the files this weekend to see what looks the best. And I agree about the black shirts. It will be much better about not showing dirt and stuff.


    They are 100% cotton and they are thick shirts.