Removing rear panels for trailer wiring

It's actually pretty easy. You'll need a T40 (Torx) to remove about 8 bolts from underneath. You'll ned up taking the license plate holder off at the same time. Should fall right off. You can access most everything you're doing from that.

To remove the upper deck you'll need to take the covers off the lower roll hoops (T40), rear humps under rool hoops (4mm allen), side black plastic pods by your armrests (T40), a couple more 4mm allen holding the front of the rear deck on, and then a couple of darts under the side armrest pods that hold the colored side panels on.

I've seen a dozen videos on YouTube of folks showing how it's done.

Quote from Bikerndiver

Thanks! That sounds like only a one beer project.... Well, except for the wiring itself, but since it's a premade harness that should be fairly straight forward.

I've watched others do it and thought, well that looks pretty easy to do, but then again, I'm the guy that would disassemble something and then look at the pieces strewn all over the garage floor and ask, "Oh, my God! What have I done?" 🤣

Most things I take a part are lighter after I get them back together.

Quote from Bikerndiver

Thanks! That sounds like only a one beer project.... Well, except for the wiring itself, but since it's a premade harness that should be fairly straight forward.

For sure - also recommend hand tools to remove those bolts. Was in a hurry and grabbed impact, and some how managed to break off one of those metal rivet pieces the bolt threads into. Real pain to remove after that and all cause I was in a hurry when I could of done it by hand...Left like that until I had cover off, then fixed it but dang it taught me a lesson!

Quote from 3GunSteve

For sure - also recommend hand tools to remove those bolts. Was in a hurry and grabbed impact, and some how managed to break off one of those metal rivet pieces the bolt threads into. Real pain to remove after that and all cause I was in a hurry when I could of done it by hand...Left like that until I had cover off, then fixed it but dang it taught me a lesson!

Well, uh... oh, never mind...

See - https://www.youtube.com/result…ingshot+rear+deck+removal

The first video listed from Rich Arlt is Painter in the Slingshot World. He has videos on all aspects of body panel removal.

Bikerndiver here are the instructions I wrote to remove and replace the rear panel for installation of the diamond-plate rear-protection plates I used to make for the Sling. Don't know if this is what you're after but maybe it will help. They were written before the '19 model year and because I quit making them, I'm not sure if that panel has been changed. You can obviously ignore the line items regarding the installation of the rear plate.

Rear Plate Installation – Polaris Slingshot – All Years

The rear protection plate can be installed and removed without removing the rear panel, however, it will be necessary to remove the panel in order to apply adequate pressure to adhere the 3M tape. It is also much easier to properly locate and drill the holes with the rear panel removed. Please note that the gas tank is located immediately in front of the rear panel. While the fastener holes are located behind a metal strap holding the gas tank, any attempt to drill the holes in place will risk penetration of the tank.

To install rear plate:

• Remove two push fasteners from lower left edge and one push fastener from lower right edge of rear panel.
• Remove four T25 screws from left edge and four T25 screws from right edge of rear panel.
• Remove three T40 bolts from center of bottom edge of rear panel.
• Remove four T40 bolts from the top edge of the rear panel.
• Loosen the panel by working the top edge out from under the lower deck panel above it while keeping the lower edge of the panel in the forward position. If you pull the lower edge back towards the rear tire, it will make it more difficult to clear the top.
• Use a 15mm socket to remove the lower rear shock mount nut from the shock mount bolt.
• Place a jack under the right rear lift point and lift the Slingshot slowly until the shock mount bolt is finger loose and remove the bolt by hand. Secure the vehicle with a jack stand for safety.
• Raise the bottom end of the rear shock to remove the rear panel over the top of the rear tire. Replace the rear shock bolt temporarily for safety.
• Place the rear panel on a flat surface then place the rear plate in place on the rear panel. Carefully position it snugly in place left to right while using the radius cut for the shock hole to align it up and down.
• Mark the center of the two holes with a fine tip sharpie.Remove the rear plate.
• For increased accuracy, use an exacto knife or similar sharp point to mark the center of each hole location.
• Use a 1/8” drill bit to drill two pilot holes.
• Use a 5/16” drill bit to drill the two fastener holes through the pilot holes.
• Replace rearplate on rear panel to ensure alignment of the holes.
• Thoroughly clean rear panel of all dirt, grime and residue. Use a degreaser if necessary.
• Clean all areas of rear panel where 3M tape will be attached with Isopropyl alcohol.
• Release the tape backing.
• For increased adhesion, use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the plastic in the areas where tape will attach as well as the rear plate itself. 3M recommends an installation temperature of 50-100 degrees with 70-100 degrees being ideal.
• Place the rear panel on the floor and carefully lay the plate in place on the panel, making sure that the radius cut and fastener holes align.
• Per 3M specs, apply a minimum of 15 lbs pressure per square inch for a minimum of 60 seconds. One person can do this by placing hands and knees on the corners and center of plate for the desired time. 50% of ultimate bond strength will be achieved after 20 minutes, 90% after 24 hours and 100% after 72 hours.
• Install the base of each fastener through the fastener holes then install the center pin in the fastener and depress fully.
• Make sure the shock bolt is finger loose and remove the bolt.
• Raise the shock and replace the rear panel over the top of the rear tire.
• Replace the shock bolt and nut. Use a 15mm socket and 17mm wrench to snug the nut.
• Lower the Slingshot to the floor and torque the shock mount bolt to 50 lbs +/- 4 lbs/sq in.
• Work the top edge of the rear panel back up over the lower deck panel above it.
• Replace four T40 bolts on the top edge of the rear panel.
• Replace four T25 screws on left edge and four T25 screws on right edge of rear panel.
• Replace three T40 bolts in center of bottom edge of rear panel.
• Replace two push fasteners on lower left edge and one push fastener on lower right edge of rear panel.
• Ride baby, ride!

For touch up or repair of the clear coat on the gloss black or red, use Cardinal Clear Gloss A-4178-CL01 (spray can) or other clear gloss equivalent.

Quote from Roadhawg

I've watched others do it and thought, well that looks pretty easy to do, but then again, I'm the guy that would disassemble something and then look at the pieces strewn all over the garage floor and ask, "Oh, my God! What have I done?" 🤣

HA! What I normally do for more complicated disassembly, is do it where I have room and lay the parts down as I disassemble them in order.

I came up with this (pre internet days) back when I took apart the carburetors for my Yamaha 600 Radian.