Help. Wiring question.

    Little help plz?

    I installed a little air horn to my SS. I ran my power wire right to the battery . I used the original steering wheel horn button. Horn does NOT work unless key is on. ( just like it should )

    I tried to install 1 LED strip under the hood and to a switch in my dash. I tied into to hot wire from the horn to 1 pole to the switch. I tied the power wire from the LED to the other pole of the switch. Then the LED ground to a good ground. The light works fine on/off with the switch HOWEVER it works even when the key is off. The horn only works with key ON.

    I want the LED to turn off with the key also.

    Sounds like the stock horn relay allows the horn to only work when the ignition switch is activated, but the LED switch is ALWAYS powered (since it's powered by the same cable you ran to the battery for the horn), so if the switch is ON, the LEDs will be on even if the ignition switch is off.


    If you are going to add additional items, My advice is to not use any wiring from existing circuits. Polaris used the minimum sized wiring and fuses to do the job, adding additional amperage will be challenging, even low amperage stuff could put a circuit over the edge.


    I think BKL is correct about the button.


    My advice, setup your own fuse block, run a dedicated power wire from your battery or alternator to the fuse block, size that wire based on how much amperage you will need for any accessories. I chose to make my entire fuse block switched, so I have a relay in line that is activated upon the key being on. I tied my relay trigger into the 12v power connector in the glove box, since it's switched on key. I tapped the power wire on it and it turns on my relay, feeding power to my new fuse block.


    There are fuse blocks out there that have both constant and switched power, more expensive, but you may want that versatility.


    Good luck!

    Thanks man, I like your idea on relay for external fuse box. Putting one behind driver seat for heated seats and then the cheap underglow I have. Mostly to clean up wiring to battery and having that box on with ignition would make me feel a lot better.

    IIRC, I power my AFR/Boost gauge via plug-in on the glove-box power outlet. No problems over 2+ years.

    As far as a convenient power source, I think the Alternator's red terminal is the easiest to get to in the engine compartment, but I haven't tested to make sure it doesn't have 12V when the engine is off. Went to test today, but both my digital multimeters needed new batteries.X( A quick site search didn't find any confirmation about using that terminal.

    Quote from BKL

    IIRC, I power my AFR/Boost gauge via plug-in on the glove-box power outlet. No problems over 2+ years.

    As far as a convenient power source, I think the Alternator's red terminal is the easiest to get to in the engine compartment, but I haven't tested to make sure it doesn't have 12V when the engine is off. Went to test today, but both my digital multimeters needed new batteries.X( A quick site search didn't find any confirmation about using that terminal.


    That large cable going to the Alternator is always hot, has to be, we don't have a relay large enough on the sling to switch it.


    But, you can use that to feed a relay for your switched fuse box/connection.

    Quote from wokka

    That large cable going to the Alternator is always hot, has to be, we don't have a relay large enough on the sling to switch it.


    But, you can use that to feed a relay for your switched fuse box/connection.

    I figured since it had to charge the battery that it should be hot, but had hoped otherwise. I do like the idea of using it to power a second fuse box triggered via relay to only have power when the engine is on.

    Quote from wokka

    That large cable going to the Alternator is always hot, has to be, we don't have a relay large enough on the sling to switch it.


    But, you can use that to feed a relay for your switched fuse box/connection.

    wokka my question is, and maybe you have the answer, can the alternator wire be used to power a fuse box as opposed to triggering a relay for it? If so, I would run a 2/0 wire from it to a splitter, then use one side for constant hot circuit and add a relay connected to the glove box power port to trigger a switched circuit on the other side (I have a Blue Sea fuse box with 6 constant hot and 6 switched circuits).


    I just haven't got a clear answer whether or not this is advisable, or should I just come off the battery. It would be a cleaner install with everything under the hood and no wire running from the back.


    BKL Dave@DDMWorks @anyone ???

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Quote from SlingLow

    wokka my question is, and maybe you have the answer, can the alternator wire be used to power a fuse box as opposed to triggering a relay for it? If so, I would run a 2/0 wire from it to a splitter, then use one side for constant hot circuit and add a relay connected to the glove box power port to trigger a switched circuit on the other side (I have a Blue Sea fuse box with 6 constant hot and 6 switched circuits).


    I just haven't got a clear answer whether or not this is advisable, or should I just come off the battery. It would be a cleaner install with everything under the hood and no wire running from the back.


    BKL Dave@DDMWorks @anyone ???


    I'm not using the 60a wire to trigger the relay (it would be on all the time, that large wire is always hot), I'm powering my fuse box with that alternator wire,

    I tried to mock up a drawing of what I have.


    Red line is the big red wire going to the alternator from the battery, I ran a 12g wire from there, the purple and put a 20a fuse inline on it, then over to the relay. Relay is triggered from the key switch, I tapped the power port in the glove box for that, since it's switched off of the key.



    Quote from wokka

    I'm not using the 60a wire to trigger the relay (it would be on all the time, that large wire is always hot), I'm powering my fuse box with that alternator wire,

    I tried to mock up a drawing of what I have.


    Red line is the big red wire going to the alternator from the battery, I ran a 12g wire from there, the purple and put a 20a fuse inline on it, then over to the relay. Relay is triggered from the key switch, I tapped the power port in the glove box for that, since it's switched off of the key.



    Thanks wokka that's exactly what I'd like to do with the addition of an always hot side on the fuse block. So, on your drawing, I would add a splitter after the fuse on the wire from the alternator to the relay to create the hot side. I am using a 3-way splitter to create a 3rd leg for an amp if I ever decide to add stereo equipment so I wanted to be sure that this won't overload that alternator wire.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Quote from SlingLow

    Thanks wokka that's exactly what I'd like to do with the addition of an always hot side on the fuse block. So, on your drawing, I would add a splitter after the fuse on the wire from the alternator to the relay to create the hot side. I am using a 3-way splitter to create a 3rd leg for an amp if I ever decide to add stereo equipment so I wanted to be sure that this won't overload that alternator wire.


    LOL, I didn't show it, but I do have a tap between the fuse and the relay, the radio needed an always hot side for it's memory :)