Spraying Sunset red

  • does anyone have experience painting sunset red with spray cans from Polaris. I am having problems painting some fibreglass parts I made. Any help would appreciated.

    Don't pretend to paint autos and such...but as a residential painting contractor generally we try to spray to heavy... try several light coats. Good Luck ... Try with some cheap paint on some junk stuff.

  • sunset red is a metallic paint and it is translucent. I sprayed 4 coat with recommended time between coats and each coat got darker. Also sprayed clear coat. I thought it was OK but the next day the colour was not even it had dark and lighter strips. That was one problem.

    A second problem. One part had a flaw and I wet sanded it and sprayed a base coat. When I sprayed another base coat after 24 hrs the repaired spot only the metallic showed. The rest was red.

  • sunset red is a metallic paint and it is translucent. I sprayed 4 coat with recommended time between coats and each coat got darker. Also sprayed clear coat. I thought it was OK but the next day the colour was not even it had dark and lighter strips. That was one problem.

    A second problem. One part had a flaw and I wet sanded it and sprayed a base coat. When I sprayed another base coat after 24 hrs the repaired spot only the metallic showed. The rest was red.

    And you thought that it was ALL going to be real serous info here.....

  • I've actually seen some YouTube videos where someone roller-painted parts using Rustoleum paint and a hair dryer to smooth out any bubbles. Appears to take a little time, but it came out great.

    I used some good foam rollers to paint some steel foot lockers --- good oil base paints --- first rolled it on and it bubbled like crazy .... didn't know what to do .... so while it was still wet I rerolled with very little paint on the roller and it smoothed out and looked like it was sprayed with the 'best' equipment. Sometimes one gets lucky.

  • Transnebulae + Candy + metallics = what Sunset Red touchup paint consists of. It is a Candy Base Coat that requires a clear coat. Primer color will affect final color but make sure primer is compatible. DupliColor works well with most all auto paint. I like to use light gray so I can better control the darkness via number of coats. I’m sure this is the same with spray cans but everyone knows how I feel about spray cans!


    To properly spray....... put your spray cans in some very warm water (just the Candy and not the tip) to warm up the paint mix inside. You MUST shake the can for at least a full minute or two and intermittent while spraying. If not agitated, you will have inconsistent metallic/color.


    Spray a thin “tack coat” then coats sprayed with a 75% overlap with the manufacture required time between all coats usually at 70 degrees. Spray one direction only and the speed required to get a good “wet coat” without runs. Most people want to “pour on the paint” but you will regret doing that. Your speed is very important as you can’t adjust volume or pressure on spray cans! Mottling occurs when too much or not enough paint gets in one area or spot. Try to mount the parts so all can be sprayed with a mostly upright can.


    Some paints require an hour up to 48 hours before clear coating. READ THE LABELS! Make sure your clear is compatible with the Polaris paint. Spray a very light tack coat, wait for recommended time between coats and then spray a medium wet coat, then wait again and finish with a wet coat. (Watch out for runs!) Let cure twice as long as it says before you touch it!


    MACAWS brings this information via his tag. Good luck!

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  • Looking at the pictures now. Looks like there was a bit of cross contamination. Maybe a primer or some contamination. Did you primer ? What was the temperature? What did you clean the part with? Tell me your whole process.