Heated Seats using the Factory wiring on my 2016 Sling

  • I have a question about wiring up my new heated PRP seats. I am lucky enough to have a 2016 Sling that already has the wiring for the heated seats installed from the factory just as it does for the fog lights that I have already hooked up and it was really easy. I have hooked up a multi-meter to the plug under the seat and when the ignition is on and the engine is off I am getting about 9-10 volts so I know the other end is hooked up to something. I am just looking for some help in the best, easiest and safest way to get the heated seats working. I do have waterproof switches that fit in the dash under the display so that is no problem.


    My current plan is to cut off the plug on the PRP seats and attach it to OEM harness so I can plug into the existing wiring on the PRP seats. This brings me to my questions:


    1.

    Do you know if there is a plug adapter available so I do not have to cut the current wires from the Sling and install the PRP seat plug?


    2.

    Can you tell me where the other end of these wires come out in the front of the Sling? I was thinking about hijacking them and moving them to the 2 waterproof switches that I already have and can mount in the dash under the display screen then just Loom back over to my FX-1 Fuse Block separately with 10 amp. fuses for each.


    In my travels I have been told that DER  Doc&Ruby  ericastar76 Might be able to assist.


    Any input/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


    Happy Sling'n!

  • Well Doc - One way or another I will do my best to figure it out. Sometimes I am persistent and sometimes I am just plain stubborn! But I haven't been beaten yet and ain't about to start now. It just might take a little time. I just prefer to use the existing wiring and not have to run a new set thru the transmission tunnel. The pre-wired fog lights were much easier.

  • Well Doc - One way or another I will do my best to figure it out. Sometimes I am persistent and sometimes I am just plain stubborn! But I haven't been beaten yet and ain't about to start now. It just might take a little time. I just prefer to use the existing wiring and not have to run a new set thru the transmission tunnel. The pre-wired fog lights were much easier.

    Looking forward to taking a few lessons after you master this!

    Remember to take plenty of pictures!

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • GADSling sorry but I'm not much help with the factory wiring. After hearing of others having issues with factory wiring I decided to add my own. Not sure of what kind of switches you have but you're going to want more than on and off. Hi and Lo didn't even give me what I wanted so I went to DC motor controllers . Totally happy now.

    Hope you get it how you want it.

    The round knob is the controller and there's one on each side. They aren't waterproof but with the boards behind the radio it hasn't been an issue and I've been in plenty of rain.

  • Thank you for your input DER . Tell me, where did you get the DC motor controllers? The switches I have are very similar to the "On/Off" switch you have just to the right of your start button. Thanks to your input I might need to rethink the switch situation. Were they difficult to mount/install? Pulling out the radio/back up camera it easy. I had to do that to find and install the fog lights that were also pre-wired from Polaris.


    I am thinking about hooking up the multi-meter to the plug under the seat and turning on the ignition and going back to getting the 9 volts. Then just start yanking fuses in the fuse box to see if any of those shut down the juice going to the plug. Then I will know pretty much where the wires are. If that works then I think I should be able to hijack and loom those wires over to the switches (or DC motor controllers) then back to my FX-1 fuse box.


    I am not that good with electricity or circuits but my skills are improving. The trial and error method works but I prefer the trial part.

  • Thank you for your input DER . Tell me, where did you get the DC motor controllers? The switches I have are very similar to the "On/Off" switch you have just to the right of your start button. Thanks to your input I might need to rethink the switch situation. Were they difficult to mount/install? Pulling out the radio/back up camera it easy. I had to do that to find and install the fog lights that were also pre-wired from Polaris.


    I am thinking about hooking up the multi-meter to the plug under the seat and turning on the ignition and going back to getting the 9 volts. Then just start yanking fuses in the fuse box to see if any of those shut down the juice going to the plug. Then I will know pretty much where the wires are. If that works then I think I should be able to hijack and loom those wires over to the switches (or DC motor controllers) then back to my FX-1 fuse box.


    I am not that good with electricity or circuits but my skills are improving. The trial and error method works but I prefer the trial part.

    I don't have a link but they were from Amazon. The knobs have about a 6" pigtail that plugs into the boards and the boards are mounted via velcro to the radio unit (not the display head) Sorry but I don't have pics. Just make sure that they can handle the amperage.

    The on off switch will work but it will be on hi all the time . I went that route at first and it was just to hot for me. With the controller you have infinite adjustability and they're super easy to install. They have marked input and output for positive and negative so just connect the wires.

    Hope this helps and don't be afraid to reach out

  • Hello there GADSling ... let me try to help.


    1. The connector coming off your heated seat is a Delphi Weather Pack. What is used on the the SS (for the most part), are Delphi Metri Packs. [It’s an interesting history between the two types of connectors... if you have time, do some light reading about them]. Personally, I’m a fan of the weather pack connectors (but I digress). Both are easily found on Amazon (here: Weather Pack and here: Metri Pack)


    2. I’m not entirely sure about the wiring source for the stock SS to power the seats... but would advise against using that it anyway. The seats can draw anywhere between 4 to 8amps combined. For that size load, a fuse block (10amp fuse) and a relay are better suited (most wire on the stock harness is between 18awg and 22awg ~> more than enough for “out of the factory” electrical... but potentially a bad fit if the circuit your tying into is at max load already).


    Hope this helps.

    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you...
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  • Thanks ericastar76 and DER for your input.


    I like your idea DER about the DC Motor controllers and your choice for the placement of the switch/knob. I just ordered 2 of these today and will probably install in the same place as you did:


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Can you please confirm that they are the right ones for the job?


    In laying out the PRP wiring out on my dining room floor I just realized that there are actually 2 sets of wires for each seat side. Passenger and drivers side. There are 2 plugs for each side. One for the bun warmer and one for the back warmer. If I were to continue down my current path of using the existing Polaris wiring it would require splitting the incoming wire behind the seats to accommodate both plugs. Arrgh... Taking this into consideration along with Ericastar76's comments on the size (awg) of the wiring and the load I am now thinking using the wiring harness's that were included in the PRP seats. Especially since the PRP wiring harness is really done quite well. It looks pretty simple to just cut off the wires on the on/off switch that came with the PRP seats and screw them into the DC Motor controllers with the exception that there are 3 wires coming off the PRP harness and it appears that there is only a place for 2 wires on the DC Motor board for the input. Help? See the picture of the PRP switch attached.


    Since it appears that Ericastar76 is an electrical guru I would like to ask this. If I were to use the PRP wiring harness and run the wiring (Loomed of course, I Loom EVERYTHING I do) up to my SlingMods FX-1 fuse box would it be a good idea to have each seat heater on a separate fuse? Maybe a 5 or 10 amp fuse? Also please help me understand where the possible relay comes into play and where/how to install 1 or 2 if necessary.

  • GADSling those look like they should work.

    Its been a couple of years since I did mine but I think they're 10 amp . As to the wiring mine came with a harness designed to hook to the battery with eyelets on the ends so just two wires and I cut them as needed.

    Hope this helps ...maybe ericastar76 has more

  • Thanks DER ,

    Mine also came with what appears to be the same eyelets to hook up directly to the battery. Mine is also have an in line 15 amp fuse in the little black housing you can see in the picture.

    I cut that fuse off since I was wiring to a fuse block also you'll notice that the controller board contains a fuse also.

    Sounds like you have the jist of it . One thing I would recommend is putting tape on the paint before drilling to prevent chipping.

    Good luck

  • This was a seat heater kit I made for a customer a while back to place inside his PRP seats. Each heating element has a low/med/high relay controller; both circuits are on separate 5amp fuses. Since the load is relatively low, you really don’t need a relay if you plan on using 18awg wire and have switches rated for 10amps.


    *You can look at my train horn wiring diagram for ideas on how to map out your circuit if desired (the fundamental concepts are universal in application). https://www.facebook.com/10000…75/posts/2357239274563128


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  • GADSling , told ya! ^^^


    ericastar76 good to hear from you! Hope all is well with you and yours. I'm just out here on the west coast swinging my dick. (Inside joke - NOT harassment)

    Things are going well... just trying to get ahead at work (and really can’t wait to put 2020 be me)! Looking forward to 2021 when we all can get back together ~> so keep it swinging until then LOL! :squinting_face_with_tongue:

    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you...
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