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The hose in the pic below is the only spot that has constant coolant flow prior to the thermostat opening up. You can put it in the upper hose and it will be accurate once you're up and running but will be slow to respond initially.
Following
I think most people just put it on the upper hose going to the radiator. It's not 100% accurate until the engine is warmed up, but good enough for me. I have details on my install, plus a few other goodies at Gauge install
Let me know if you have any questions
I think most people just put it on the upper hose going to the radiator. It's not 100% accurate until the engine is warmed up, but good enough for me. I have details on my install, plus a few other goodies at Gauge install
Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks for the info. I suppose I can use that hose, just out of curiosity though, how does the gauge act until you hit operating temp? I assume it’s technically only accurate when the thermostat is open?
Thanks for the info. I suppose I can use that hose, just out of curiosity though, how does the gauge act until you hit operating temp? I assume it’s technically only accurate when the thermostat is open?
And a follow up question. Is the thermostat always open at WOT?
Thanks for the info. I suppose I can use that hose, just out of curiosity though, how does the gauge act until you hit operating temp? I assume it’s technically only accurate when the thermostat is open?
My gauge sits at 100 until the engine warms up, then it climbs pretty quickly, but not instant. I have a digital gauge.
We typically install the senders for coolant temp in the upper radiator hose like wokka has on his Slingshot. That upper radiator hose has the coolant coming out of the engine going to the radiator and will be a higher temperature reading then at the back of the engine in the "U" hose, so that makes it a nice temperature to know since that is the highest temperature you can read easily in the system. Also, the adapters for going into that upper radiator hose are super common and easy to find, haven't found anything that goes easily into the "U" hose at the back of the engine. The downside of using the upper radiator hose is coolant does not really flow through it until the thermostat is open so you can not get a good read on the coolant temp until the thermostat opens. That is usually not a problem though unless you want to monitor for really low coolant temps for some reason. Hope that helps, Dave
Ok awesome so there is a hose that will work. It looks like it might be a snug fit though with those curves.
Do you know of anyone who has successfully put one there? Would you happen to know what size adapter I would need for that hose? I’ve seen online people saying 32mm all the way up to 36mm, but I believe they’re referring to the upper and lower radiator hoses.
The upper radiator hose is 1.25" or 32mm.
The upper radiator hose is 1.25" or 32mm.
Are you positive its 32mm? In @wokka's thread, he said he used a 34mm adapter, so I had that in my cart to order, but want to be sure before buying.
Thanks for the info, by the way. Much appreciated! I guess it doesn't really matter until its up to operating temp anyways, I was just thinking it might only be accurate when the tstat is open so I would only have accurate readings while it was flowing and then inaccurate again until it opened back up.
What coolant do we run stock? Im sure ill spill some trying to drain it down,
Also - just placed an order on DDM Works' site (well, earlier today) for a short throw and ultimate shift knob! Can't wait to get those things installed!
I would trust Dave before anything I post, he definitely knows what he's doing. I looked at my amazon history, seems I ordered the 32mm and mis typed on my build info. Will correct that.
I bought the 32mm, then I thought Goats_Hogs posted that a 34mm was required. It's only a $10 part but I want to make sure I have the right one when I do the install.
This has been bugging me all day. I seem to recall having one that was too small but my memory isn't all it's cracked up to be anymore.
I had posted on the build page that I used a 34mm, but then Dave comes along and says it should be 32mm and now I'm second guessing it.
I could go out and pull one end off and measure it I guess. I don't have my calipers with me though.
I bought the 32mm, then I thought Goats_Hogs posted that a 34mm was required. It's only a $10 part but I want to make sure I have the right one when I do the install.
I had the same problem. I'm pretty sure I did the same thing, bought the 32mm. But it was small. I actually think I bought the 34, 36 and the 38. They were cheap, and I just wanted to move forward. It's in the largest thread on here..... LOL! It was either the 34 or the 36, I'd bet the farm on that. For $20, I'd suggest getting both. If you want to wait long enough, I'll likely be doing it to this SS this winter too....
I'm not trying to sound like I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but is your slingshot either turbo or supercharged? Do you know of anyone who has had overheating problems with their slingshot? Other than your desire to have one, is there any reason you need to have a water temp gauge if there's no history of overheating slingshot engines, and if you're nonboosted?
Just inquisitive minds want to know
I'm not trying to sound like I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but is your slingshot either turbo or supercharged? Do you know of anyone who has had overheating problems with their slingshot? Other than your desire to have one, is there any reason you need to have a water temp gauge if there's no history of overheating slingshot engines, and if you're nonboosted?
Just inquisitive minds want to know
Speaking for myself only.... I just like to see what the machine is doing at all times. I had a temp gauge, voltmeter, and oil pressure gauges on my last Slingshot. You would be amazed how quickly they heat up, the cooling is marginal at best. Oil pressure is the lifeblood of the machine, so I enjoyed seeing high numbers on that. And the voltmeter covers something many have had issues with on the SS. I noticed that in 5th, there were times it was only charging at 12.5, and rarely at 14.7.... what it should if depleted.
This Slingshot will get those 3 for sure, but with the supercharger I will be sure to add an air/fuel ratio gauge. I just don't like idiot lights, they tend to tell you when a problem becomes real for you (like breakdown). Gauges let you know that something isn't really right BEFORE it's a real problem. I also change my Syn oil every 3500 miles.... cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned!
G_H tosses two new pennies out on the floor.....
I'm not trying to sound like I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but is your slingshot either turbo or supercharged? Do you know of anyone who has had overheating problems with their slingshot? Other than your desire to have one, is there any reason you need to have a water temp gauge if there's no history of overheating slingshot engines, and if you're nonboosted?
Just inquisitive minds want to know
I too prefer gauges over idiot lights, so I can understand the desire to have a temperature gauge. But I am writing on a related topic, where I was going to do the lil reroute of the steam hose on our 2015 normally aspirated engine "just because", but this post has me back pedaling causing me to rethink why fix something if it is not broken? I have done a lil modifying of the existing steam hose and reduced the drop from approximately 2" to 3/4", mostly because it was easy, didn't cost anything, and for something to do, but without any further evidence that a full reroute would be beneficial, I think I will just leave it at that until maybe when it becomes actually necessary to replace these hoses, if ever? Thanks Funinthesun.
Bill
Ruby has digital gauges that I can select on ride command. I'll post a photo later, I'm going riding later this morning.
