Car amplifier in a SS; good idea or bad idea?

  • May be trading my car. The new one seems to have a decent enough stereo, but I still want to remove both my amps, head unit, and subwoofer from it (significant investment).

    While I won't be able to use the speakers, the actual subwoofer in the SS, I think there are places that I can mount the amplifiers to protect them from water.

    Anyone done this?

  • There are 3 main areas I know about for mounting the amp in the SS, but none of them are 100% waterproof.

    1. Under the driver seat - probably least waterproof.
    2. Behind stereo area - this can be water "resistant"-ized from the engine area but there are still holes in the dash above that allow water in.
    3. Under the shark fin in the rear deck - Probably the best bet for waterproofing although you will need to work around the roll bar mounts and cover. (I also worried about heat dissipation in this area.)


    Given than you don't want to use the head unit or speakers from your car, you might just think about buying a new amp anyways. There are waterproof ones designed for motorcycles that aren't much bigger than a paperback book. (I have the Kenwood KAC-M3004 in my SS.)

  • I have two 4 channel Power Acoustik Razor amps under my drivers seat. One has been there for 2+ years. No issues.


    I have them mounted on 1/2” spacers though to protect from any water that might be on the floorboard.


    I also take my SS to the coin wash at least once a week. Been caught in rain a few times. Everything gets wet. No issues. No marine rated overpriced BS.


    I didn’t want to put them under the rear fin because

    1. No airflow

    2. Water pours in the area from the top of the fin through the 3rd brake light gap and the thin plastic black piece on the fin.

  • Just get marine rated amps. The slingshot is exposed to all kinds of weather why would you do an amp that is anything but waterproof?

    Not a question of buying an amp, but using ones I already have.
    Between both my amps, I've got 1000 watts on tap. If I don't need them in my new car, I want to put them to use.

  • I don’t know a single Sling running marine stuff in our local group of 30+.


    Just be smart about where you mount them. Under the seat? Elevate them a little bit. Under the rear fin? Run a bead of silicone under the fin so no water can seep down.


    Failsafe? Storage bins. I’d just Cut a small hole and possibly run a small 12v computer fan in there to keep some cool air moving around.

  • I don’t know a single Sling running marine stuff in our local group of 30+.


    Just be smart about where you mount them. Under the seat? Elevate them a little bit. Under the rear fin? Run a bead of silicone under the fin so no water can seep down.


    Failsafe? Storage bins. I’d just Cut a small hole and possibly run a small 12v computer fan in there to keep some cool air moving around.

    i would just assume by common sense in an open cockpit vehicle everyone would be using marine grade amplifiers ( by common sense ). I am sure it can be done with regular amps but personally i wouldn’t do it. Would you put non marine grade stuff on your boat? No you wouldn’t.

  • I sort of half-way agree about the marine vs non-marine stuff in the SS. I don't drive the SS if there is any chance of rain either, and I don't go thru any of the car washes. But that doesn't mean that I didn't get caught in a downpour - ask wokka . I don't have a marine grade head unit - there is not true double-din waterPROOF head units currently made. (Yes, I know the Sony AX series is waterRESISTANT and there are videos showing people running water hoses on them, but Sony's own warranty SPECIFICALLY rejects water damage). So the one time we got caught in rain, my head unit got damaged (LED lights in the button don't work and rear camera works only sometimes) but my amp and speakers (both marine grade) work fine.


    So, back to the original poster: Since you already have the amp, if you take precautions and try to keep it from getting wet, Yes, it will work. Until it doesn't. Then you should buy marine grade stuff.

  • Just get marine rated amps. The slingshot is exposed to all kinds of weather why would you do an amp that is anything but waterproof?

    Do you know what marine rated means?


    TLDR coated for saline protection( corrosion), it has nothing to do with it being waterproof.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

  • i would just assume by common sense in an open cockpit vehicle everyone would be using marine grade amplifiers ( by common sense ). I am sure it can be done with regular amps but personally i wouldn’t do it. Would you put non marine grade stuff on your boat? No you wouldn’t.

    Yeah, I actually would - and do. I have not used any "marine" grade equipment in my boat installs. Haven't had a single issue. Ever.


    Marine grade doesn't mean waterproof FYI.

  • Yeah, I actually would - and do. I have not used any "marine" grade equipment in my boat installs. Haven't had a single issue. Ever.


    Marine grade doesn't mean waterproof FYI.

    I have never installed anything electronic wise that is not marine grade rated in any of my open cockpit vehicles including multiple boats ive owned over the years. To say it doesnt make a difference is simply not true and long term it is highly recommended to go marine grade for peace of mind. Yes it doesn’t mean “waterproof” but it can make a huge difference overall in long term durability which is not worth risking to save a couple thousand dollars on an investment. With that said regarding the slingshot i guess if the amplifier can be hidden and properly protected from the environmental hazards like rain etc there shouldn’t be a problem.


    Marine grade 101
    Marine rated or marine grade refers to a products ability to withstand elements associated with marine environments, such as water, strong winds, rough contact and saltwater corrosion. In most cases, the main focus of marine-rated equipment is protection from saltwater corrosion, as such elements is a leading cause of premature product failure at sea, docks or during shore-based operations.

    In order to deter saltwater corrosion, manufacturers leverage superior materials. An example of this is the use of molybdenum in marine-grade stainless alloys, including 316 stainless steel. This type of material can be found on enclosures for portable power distribution systems designed exclusively for marine locations, industrial lighting products and more. Other types of marine-grade materials include the following: AH36, DH36 and EH36 (carbon steel); grade 5052 and 6061-T6 (aluminum); and C65500 (silicon bronze).

    Marine-rated devices may also be treated with resilient coatings to ensure adequate protection from saltwater corrosion. Galvanization is a common method for achieving such features, which involves dipping the material or product in hot zinc. Anodizing is a type of chemical treatment process using an electrolytic acid bath (highly applicable to aluminum). It is designed to strengthen the material, allowing it to withstand saltwater corrosion.

    Tip: To ensure proper protection from water and saltwater corrosion in marine environments, it is best practice to use marine-rated equipment. Based on their respective definitions, waterproof products (without marine ratings), although reliable, may not offer complete protection from saltwater corrosion.

  • if it doesn't have an IP65 or higher rating then it is not waterproof, I am willing to donate an alpine amp if someone wants to put up one of their expensive marine amps and we can soak them both in a tub of water and see how long they will last and IF any survive.

    Anyways it seems like discussing this is as effective as discussing which oil brand/type is the better so I will bow out and let you do you.:00010164:

    In my opinion buying "marine" rated stuff is like buying OEM oil/fluids, it is supposed to be better but in reality the 3rd party stuff is just as good if not better.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

  • if it doesn't have an IP65 or higher rating then it is not waterproof, I am willing to donate an alpine amp if someone wants to put up one of their expensive marine amps and we can soak them both in a tub of water and see how long they will last and IF any survive.

    Anyways it seems like discussing this is as effective as discussing which oil brand/type is the better so I will bow out and let you do you.:00010164:

    In my opinion buying "marine" rated stuff is like buying OEM oil/fluids, it is supposed to be better but in reality the 3rd party stuff is just as good if not better.

    I am sorry I dont agree with everything you are saying. There is a reason most reputable audio shops that specialize in boat installs use Marine Graded equipment AND advice going that route. If a regular amplifier and a marine rated one both stack the same vs water environments and corrosion/failure during these climates that wouldn’t be the case and they would be priced the same or simply “marine grade” wouldnt exist. Also there is for example, a big difference in price between an Alpine Amp and a JL audio Marine Amplifier as better build quality overall and performance (all amps are not made the same hence the price 🙂) For me saving a couple hundred dollars is not worth it if I can have peace of mind and overall a much better product.