Sling cranks but won't start

    Hello fellow Slingas,

    I have a problem and I am at a loss.


    Two days ago my Sling wouldnt start.


    I turn key, and after it cycles, I push starter button and it just ticks no start.



    *I have checked the battery, (Yellowtop) and it is good.

    * I have checked fuses and swapped breakers and they are good.

    * I had a friend swap out clutch switch thinking that was the problem.

    * I pushed sling a couple of inches to reset starter. (Heard that worked for some).

    ***The only thing I have not tried is popping clutch because I am on a steep hill, and if it doesnt work I am screwed trying to get back in driveway.


    * I heard there is a Starter solenoid separate from starter relay, I cant find it.


    I am trying to avoid a tow to dealer. Has anyone had an issue like this??

    Advice would be appreciated.

    2016.

    7000 miles


    HELPPPPPP

    I'm curious how you checked your battery. If it's over 12 volts at rest it looks like it's good. But if it drops significantly when you activate the starter it could be bad. If the starter solenoid is ticking, you're circuit is working but your voltage is probably low.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    fast clicking usually means battery issues....first make sure the terminals are not corroded. Clean them shiny...and inside the the clamp....then make sure they are on tight. Before you tighten them spin them back and forth while putting them on.


    check the top fuse here.....it’s the engine circuit....there is a recall now on this fuse box. Look for melted or blown fuses...the bottom fuse is the recalled one.


    Check the back of the case for melting...


    check the starter relay



    Most of the relays have the same number so you can swap them to see if it’s bad...


    is it throwing a code?


    I have jumped starter solenoids before on cars.....you must be careful...I had to chase a car down the road because it was in gear....I think I bumped the shifter linkage reaching in...


    It’s on the starter ...the battery cable connects to it...you can use a screwdriver between the terminals to jump it....to see if the starter spins....

    I’m not responsible for anything that happens should you go down that road....


    it could be done by attaching a wire to each terminal on the solenoid and touching the ends together while standing beside the vehicle..they actually make a remote starter switch.

    Drizeh

    Two months ago, my starter solenoid would click but the stater motor would not rotate. Eventually used jumper cables to provide negative to starter case, positive to motor power and solenoid power. Same click but no rotation. Installed new replacement starter and same problem. Replaced it with a 3rd starter motor and everything works great!


    The long story spans a couple months, a hand full of troubleshooting methods, and removing/installing the stater a dozen times. ;)

    DDM Stage 3 Turbo / Intercooler / Fuel Rail / Track Clutch

    Magnaflow Short Exhaust / GM 2 Bar MAP Sensor / 60# Fuel Injectors / AEM Air/fuel Gauge / Glow Shift Boost Gauge

    Stock: Radiator, Coolant Resevoir, ECU with Tune, Intake Manifold, Suspension, Brakes

    Stock: 305/45R18 Nitto NT555R not enough traction

    Just because the battery is a month old doesn't mean anything, also just because the tender show 98% doesn't mean the battery is good, just that it is charged or that you have a wrong or bad tender.


    Get a volt meter and get actual numbers, if possible have someone check the number when you crank it, if it drops below 12 when cranking it then it's likely that you have a bad battery.



    Also does anyone else notice how all the battery problems are always related to yellow tops..... Just saying.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

    Never had a problem with my Yellow Top in 2 years except melting the bottom out of the first one when it got on the Welter exhaust pipe.

    My Sling that has not had the fuse box recall is killing batteries. It killed my OEM MC battery which dropped to 3.7 volts. It took over a week on the tender to get a green light and it showed 12.8 volts on the meter. As soon as I tried to start with it, it dropped back down to 4 something and never came back. When I went to start Saturday with a new this year car battery it was at 3.7 volts. One day on the charger and it was only up to 4.8. I'm guessing it's toast and I plan to quietly exchange it and get my ass in for the recall in hopes that it cures this issue. I go for weeks with no problem then one day it's dead. I'm not keeping it on the tender so I guess I need to get power out to my portable storage unit/garage where it lives now also.


    No Optima here. I'd hate to kill a $1,400 battery or whatever they cost.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Thanks for the comments all...


    **took battery to 2 different shops to get it checked,,, battery is good.


    ** No work recently done, all grounds are tight.


    The starter is so far under, seems impossible to get to.

    I wanted to do the old hammer tap to see if that makes something happen.

    Not being familiar with the circuit and being at work right now I can't go look but the starter circuit should be relatively simple to troubleshoot.

    Battery Good=Check

    Grounded Good=Check

    Engine Grounded To Chassis=?

    Fuses Good=Check

    Clutch Switch Good=Check

    All Wires On Starter Tight=?

    Used A Two Wire Momentary Button To Activate Solenoid On Starter=?

    Taken Starter Off Vehicle To Bench Test It=?


    Bottom line, if you apply 12vdc to the large post on the starter (not on the solenoid) and the starter has a good ground that starter motor should spin.

    If you have 12vdc applied to the large post on the solenoid and you apply 12vdc to the small post on the solenoid and the motor is grounded properly the solenoid should pull in and transfer power to the starter motor causing it to spin and causing the bendix to engage the fly wheel. Either something is not grounded properly or the voltage is not making it to is desired destination. A simple volt meter can go a long way in helping you diagnose the issue but always remember that voltage it not amperage.


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

    Edited once, last by Ghost ().

    Drizeh what part of North America are you located in? I ask because maybe your close to one of us that could take a look with you?

    In the meantime Ghost is dead on what you need to check next, loose connections happen and that's what this sounds like to me as well not a frozen starter.


    The starter is actually pretty easy to get out all you need to do is remove the intake manifold and that puppy is right there. If you need to do that route here you go.


    Drizeh

    I bought this tool to get the top stater bolt on and off. Took me 12 installs to find out the first 2 starters were bad, and the 3rd one worked. Buying a new starter with the same problem as the first starter will really make you question what the problem is... 😬🔫 lol

    DDM Stage 3 Turbo / Intercooler / Fuel Rail / Track Clutch

    Magnaflow Short Exhaust / GM 2 Bar MAP Sensor / 60# Fuel Injectors / AEM Air/fuel Gauge / Glow Shift Boost Gauge

    Stock: Radiator, Coolant Resevoir, ECU with Tune, Intake Manifold, Suspension, Brakes

    Stock: 305/45R18 Nitto NT555R not enough traction