Stock speaker replacement

  • I have searched the forum. Many of the posts were in the longest thread on here. I found a couple that looked promising, only to find out they weren't available now. It really sounds good overall for my needs. That is, other than the speaker pop that recently raised it's ugly head. I'm not planning to replace the system, nor put in an amp. Below is what I think I know, and what I'm looking to find out.

    Stock speakers need to be no more than 1 5/8" mounting depth.
    Can use 6 1/2" speakers with adapters that are designed to be used to convert from 5 1/4".
    If using adapters, I assume the thickness of the raised part could be added to the mounting depth.
    I don't know how much power the stock 2016 head unit puts out. What speaker range power should I be looking at? I know 250W speakers don't work well unless the power matches somewhat, meaning with an amp they sound great, but stock might well sound better if the power isn't there.

    Matters not to me if it's a 3 piece setup, or something I can just drop in for the woofer. I do like the amount of bass I get now, and would like to keep that or improve on it even. I don't want to lose space with a sub behind me either, as we travel in our SS up to 9-10 day trips and I use all the storage plus have hoop bags. I'm just looking for something I can drop in and have it sound as good or better than it did. I'm sure this is like an "OIL" thread, with many opinions. I've very thankful for any help with this!

  • I purchased a set of SSV speaker pods and the SSV speakers that were recommended for use with the pods. I don't recall the speaker wattage? Although the pods did save a small amount of leg room (as advertised) that space was negated when the speakers were installed. The stock speaker boxes integrated the face of the speaker flush. The SSV speaker boxes shrink the box itself but the speakers themselves extend beyond the box face. There is no real noticeable performance upgrade. I would like to find a set of speakers that perform better with the stock set-up. I'm not looking to invest big bucks of sacrifice storage area. Just a simple better set of speakers.

  • So you are trying to replace the stock speaker while keeping the stock head unit and not add an amp? so basically just swap the stock speakers and hope it improve the sound.

    While it is true that you can improve the sound a little bit by using aftermarket "simple" speakers like Pioneer G series it won't sound great, the stock head unit has abysmal power which you will realize once you see the stock speakers out of the enclosure.

    I wouldn't worry about the depth and just get an spacer and get a good speaker and call it a day.... at least until you decide to do a full upgrade.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

  • I replaced my stock speakers in the stock pods and got a noticeable improvement in sound quality. By noticeable, I mean that when I had the stock speakers still on one side and the new ones on the other side and I stuck my head in the footwells, the stock speakers had a much thinner, tinnier sound with little bass. The others were 'better'. Unfortunately, the Massive brand speakers I used for their thin design are no longer available. I found mine on Ebay after they were discontinued. I still had to cannibalize the pod and do some trimming with the Dremel, drill some holes and work at getting them in. The other thing I did was connect the mid-range speaker to both the high and low pass on the crossover that is inside the stock pod to get the best sound (don't remember which I used). All in all, I got my $130 or so worth, but I don't have monster sound by a long shot.


    I thought the SSV front pods might be an improvement over my setup by using a 6 1/2" full-range speaker instead of the separates, but feedback from others has me questioning this.


    As a rock and roll drummer and enthusiast I've always had killer sound systems but I just haven't justified the expense to put one in the Sling. I enjoy the music when cruising around town by myself, but on the open road the experience becomes about the road and quite frankly, quality music would be more volume than I enjoy anymore. I have the upgrade on my wish list and with a set of hoop pods, speakers for the pods, an amp and a powered sub, it's a $600-700 expense. For that, I'll have better quality and more volume, but if I want to cruise with awesome tunes, I jump in the Vette, pull off the targa top, crank the Bose system and burn fuel.


    Life is good! How ya doing Brent? I'm hoping we get the chance to meet up again at some rally or another and I can check out your boosted Sling!

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • this is something I have been interested in as well - I am not interested in a high end system and I really dont have a problem with how the stock system sounds - I just wish I could turn it up a bit more without getting that nasty popping - now I can turn it up to much or if I use the auto volume thing and let it turn it up it will be just fine until some particular song comes on and then it will get that damn popping - this is why I dont use the auto volume


    I would simply like a speaker that wont pop that fits in the factory pods and is also waterproof


    thread bookmarked - - :thumbsup:

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

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  • I installed a pioneer with car play in mine. I did put an amp under driver seat and bought rear hoop pods. You can get a 2 channel amp very cheap and good speakers in those pods and it’s all I need. I can use my waze on the car play and backup camera as well. I really like car play and just installed one in my truck.



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  • Check out the Kicker 45KM's. When I built the system in my '17 SLR, they went right in the stock boxes. Plus they are marine speakers so they can take the weather.

    do you have a link? - - I did a search on amazon and I am not finding a 5.25 kicker marine option

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

  • Keep in mind that new speakers likely won't solve your "popping" problem. That's almost certainly emanating from the amp. Also, if you don't add power, you should look to efficiency -- the amount of sound per 1 watt of power, often displayed as XXdb/1W. I have Cerwin Vega separates and the midbass units are rated as 94 db efficiency -- pretty loud for one watt of power! I doubt the stock amp, whatever its rating, puts out more than about 10 clean watts per channel.

  • do you have a link? - - I did a search on amazon and I am not finding a 5.25 kicker marine option

    Actually it's a 6.5" speaker. The SSV hump pods are 6.5" as well as the "Rockford Fosgate" speakers that came in the SLR.


    https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-…75081&s=automotive&sr=1-1


    I also very much agree with what most have said.....placing the correct power to drive the speakers is key. Simply replacing the speakers may increase the sound quality, you are not going to gain much as far as volume.

    :SLRSS:

    S O G Member

    Oklahoma

    Slingshot

    Riders

  • Keep in mind that new speakers likely won't solve your "popping" problem. That's almost certainly emanating from the amp. Also, if you don't add power, you should look to efficiency -- the amount of sound per 1 watt of power, often displayed as XXdb/1W. I have Cerwin Vega separates and the midbass units are rated as 94 db efficiency -- pretty loud for one watt of power! I doubt the stock amp, whatever its rating, puts out more than about 10 clean watts per channel.

    I agree with dalancroft, efficient speakers produce more sound voulme for a given output. This is usually identified by the speaker's Sensitivity rating. a typical speaker's Sensitivity will be below 87-88 dB, with higher Sensitivity speakers going up to around 94 dB. The difference between 87 dB and 94 dB at the same output level is definitely noticeable.

    If your radio or amp is compatible with 2ohm speakers, you will get more output from the radio or amp. I recently replaced my 4 ohm Rockford Fosgate 6.5" speakers with 2 ohm JBL Stadium GTO620 speakers and my Clarions XC2410 amp is rated to produce 75W/channel compared to 50W/channel at 4 ohms. The new speakers cost around $268 for 2 pairs, but the combination of their 95 dB Sensitivity and the extra power the 2 ohm speakers get from my equipment means I get good volume at highway speeds w/o having to really crank up the volume. Just make sure your radio/amp can handle 2 ohm speakers.

  • While I thank all for the input, this thread (like most) went high jacked from my original post and question for the most part. I've put my $$$ into performance on the SS even on the first one. I don't give three craps about impressing someone at a stereo contest (or lighting event), just wanted to have a system that sounded like the stock one did new, or maybe a bit better. I have Ultra High Performance tires from General, QA1's, DDMWorks Supercharger with the Big Kahuna package (a spare angle drive in case), DDMWorks sway bar, Welter FSX exhaust, DDMWorks brake brace (whatever it's called, it helps), among other things. What I specifically asked for was a replacement speaker for the 5 1/4", as mine was popping. It just happened last night, and no, it wasn't from the head unit, it's a broken voice coil. I knew what it was right away. I just wanted something to replace it with the same or maybe a tad better. I put nearly 50k on my first Slingshot in 4 years, and already have 3K on this one since early October (ish). Weather here hasn't been the best, that's pretty good for Indiana. I'll put 12K or more per year on one. I'm doing OK financially, but I prioritize what is important to me. I'd rather take more vacations, more long weekends, and ride! Lighting and massive stereos are fine, just not for me. The time spent (with great friends ThomSS Bu11sh1t ) is much more precious here!

    I need to thank Neosolidus for his reply. I know he would like to see this stereo all upgraded, but that's not me or my style. His link however, was spot on! Well, I didn't need the adapters, I just ended up using the speakers he had in the link and a piece of 1/8" rubber sheet I had here at home to back them up and seal the fit. The Pioneer speakers were at least as good as stock was new (likely just a bit better), and were an easy install. I used some stainless 1 5/8" stainless self tapping screws to mount them (think deck type screws, they are hidden behind the wire mesh cover). They look good, and I'm very pleased with what they do based on what I wanted. I looked at maybe 300 or 400 speakers. While this is a Coaxial speaker, the stock system breaks it into a woofer/low mid range speaker and it just works. Not sure it will hold up over years of service, but at $50, I'll just get another set as long as it lasts a year or more.


  • Okay - its a bit late, but I still think this might be of interest for someone like me who only wants a replacement that will fit in the stock pods and is waterproof - anyway, for those interested here is a link to a plethora of 5.25 inch round marine speakers


    2020's best 5.25 inch marine speakers

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

  • Not to hijack :00008356:but since everyone is talking speakers, i have a dumb question. With the SSV fiberglass pods, do you put fiber batten in the space for fill or just leave it hollow and install the speakers?

  • Don't worry so much about the speaker having the "marine certified"

    Okay - its a bit late, but I still think this might be of interest for someone like me who only wants a replacement that will fit in the stock pods and is waterproof - anyway, for those interested here is a link to a plethora of 5.25 inch round marine speakers


    2020's best 5.25 inch marine speakers

    Don't get hung up on the whole "marine" or "waterproof" instead look at the materials that the speakers are made and go from there.

    What you are looking for is non paper cone(most now a days are polypropylene) and a rubber or polypropylene surround and you have a "marine" rated speaker but without the certification.

    I have JL C? on my SSV rear hoop pod and Cerwin Vega on my stock pods, going on 3+ years now, they get power washed and have survived 2 unavoidable rain storms(same for my sony radio and the alpine amp under the driver seat)and I have aimed the water directly at the speakers without an issue and they are not advertised as marine rated nor waterproof.

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

  • Not to hijack :00008356:but since everyone is talking speakers, i have a dumb question. With the SSV fiberglass pods, do you put fiber batten in the space for fill or just leave it hollow and install the speakers?

    I left it hollow. Also recall opting to use the stock harness/pin connectors. I can't recall but I believe it was due to a choice of splicing the new set up at the pin connector or using the old wiring and simply cutting the old harness and installing new speaker terminals.

  • this is something I have been interested in as well - I am not interested in a high end system and I really dont have a problem with how the stock system sounds - I just wish I could turn it up a bit more without getting that nasty popping - now I can turn it up to much or if I use the auto volume thing and let it turn it up it will be just fine until some particular song comes on and then it will get that damn popping - this is why I dont use the auto volume


    I would simply like a speaker that wont pop that fits in the factory pods and is also waterproof


    thread bookmarked - - :thumbsup:

    what you need is this


    AudioControl LC7i - Black Six Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS & 5-year warranty! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D…_r_cp_api_i_pwwZEb9Q4PV3A


    Basically this is used on systems that retain the factory radio whether to improve sound altogether or when adding speakers with amp etc. It converts all the parameter allowing your system to function as an aftermarket one. I have it in my 2 AMGs and now planning on adding it on my slingshot when i replace the speakers. You cannot simply add an amp plus speakers without a good converter for the stock head unit.