Is anyone running the Haltech ECU?
What functionality is lost in the ECU upgrade?
Does the ABS or Power Steering communicate with the ECU?
Haltech ECU
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I have been running it for 2 years
Don't really notice any difference but there is a difference of opinion as to what nannies may not not working.
ABS definitely works,
I have no complaints at all
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MACAWS Nice, you running the IC-7?
Kyle D Were you using an Elite 1500 with the IC-7?
Dave@DDMWorks I might be deleting the ABS and the whole micro-controller under it, anyone have experience with this?
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MACAWS Nice, you running the IC-7?
Kyle D Were you using an Elite 1500 with the IC-7?
Dave@DDMWorks I might be deleting the ABS and the whole micro-controller under it, anyone have experience with this?
Yes, I am in the process of putting in the 1500 Elite and the iC-7 dash into mine. I actually have 3 slingshots at ZZP right now all getting Haltechs and the iC-7 dash.
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Kyle D Great video!
I might be the Lone Ranger on this... But I'm working to eliminate ABS module, 2 if not all 3 wheel speed sensors (depends if I want the Haltech GPS), Brake Pressure Sensors, EVAP Sensor and excess Power Steering wires.
When I disconnect the ABS Module, the engine will not run. Note the 2 dozen micro-controller pins on the ABS Module.
And the Power Steering will not work if you disconnect all 3 wheel speed sensors. Need to bypass that also.
There should only be two wires for the Power Steering to operate (+12V and 0V)... maybe. Haltech to the rescue?!
I shorted the Brake Level Sensors at the micro-controller, to remove the sensors.
Now I need to measure the Brake Pressure Sensor/Switch to see what is needed to eliminate those.
Kyle D Dave@DDMWorks rabtech or anyone who has played with this stuff?
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Airborne i kinda glanced back at your questions. It sounds like your wanting to switch over to the Haltech ecu. I have worked with mine and tweaked it almost to perfection. I say "almost" because i still am working on cruise control.
1. When switch over you will loose traction control. Mainly because nonone takes the time to enter the data for the speed sensors and also a corresponding ignition retard table for slip differnece between the back and front wheels. I definitly didnt want that due to running independent drift levers for my two front wheels. If you want to enter the hall sensor pulse count of the three wheels and then turn on traction control and build out a table in that module that references the difference of wheel speed to engine spark retard you will effectively have traction control.
2. If you run the Haltech and want to eliminate power steering you definitely can. I wouldnt recommend it due to the wear and force on the tiny steering shaft and knuckles. It takes a huge amount of arm strength to move the steering when sitting still. You are really stressing not only the knuckle and rod you putting a tremendous amount of force on the mechanism that actually detects the force to make the power steering work in the first place. If you want to run without it i highly recommend you put a heavy duty 25amp toggle switch on the largest wire on the power steerinf unit. That is the power wire that feeds the unit. IF your runnig a Haltech it doesnt care if the power steering is on or off. So in a parking lot or around town you can flip it on and have power steering and if you want to run fast on the highway or drag strip without the twitching of the power steering just flip the switch off. If you really wanted to get fancy you could program an output on the Haltech to trigger a relay to break the power to the steering after about 15mph.
3. Running the Haltech will absolutely get rid of the antilock brake feature. And that is really confusing to me. The ABS is designed to be a self reliant system that takes the wheelspeed data and pulse if there is a difference in any one wheels speed. However it must loose something when the factory ECU is removed because i can slide any of my wheels independently and the ABS motor never comes on. Its not something i have ever wanted so i dont care about it. If it did work i woud be in trouble due to my 3 brake levers being pulled and sliding my tires.
4. If you keep the factory dash i beleive you will have to put up with a traction control light being on all the time. It might be a different light. Its been a long time since i had a dashboard .....
5. I.run the AEM 7" display and it will NOT fit in the dash area. Its way to big. So if you go with it get the 5" version. Or get ready to mount the guage like I did.
6. There are tons of things you can do we with the Haltech but I will say that i have heard of some new ECU that is being tested and Im not sure what vendor is doing that module. Maybe one of them will reply. I personally love my Haltech.. I have adjustable boost control, launch control with antilag, rotational idle, and even dual widebands between two separate exhaust openings. And i have my ecu working with my automatic transmission's ecu so my downshifts close my throttle body.
Its 3:30am so i probably missed something. But maybe this will help you answer a question or two.
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Good morning EjFord ....
Hope you and everyone here has been doing ok.
I have a couple more years with my current slingshot im sure.
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I have recently added a DDM turbo to my Slingshot. After reading this post, I was thinking it would be nice if I could add one gage like the AEM 5” so I could monitor things like boost,air,oil temp, coolant temp and so on. Can the stock ECM with the updated turbo tune be used with the AEM or does the ECM need to be replaced with a aftermarket ECM? rabtech Dave@DDMWorks
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rabtech You are the Man!!! Figured you would catch one of my posts at some point, muchos gracias!
I will refer to your numbering system above rabtech :
1. I was thinking this was the case, which is fine because I don't like traction control.
2. I've grown to enjoy the Power Steering, and like mentioned reduces steering system stresses. Do you know how I can bypass the additional communication wires to the Power Steering Module? I pretty sure it only needs 2 wire (+12VDC & 0VDC) with a toggle switch, which you mentioned?
If not, I could get down there with a multimeter/oscilloscope to figure out what to do.
3. Agreed. All wires (15+
) from the ABS Module come from the ECU. I'm planning to remove that harness and the ABS Module, then add hydraulic line adapters to fill in the gap. Have you done or heard of someone removing the ABS Module?4. I'll be using the Haltech IC-7, so I can get all the sensor values displayed on one screen. Notice I like removing and not adding things... LOL
5. I don't really have a dash, so... Fitment should be easy. Note, I'll remove every display/gauge/fiberglasscover and replace with Haltech IC-7.
6. Very nice! I'm not sure what which other ECU you are referring to, but Haltech is about to start selling the Nexus R5, which I may or may not wait for. It uses the same Haltech software, wifi, 5x25A outputs, wideband controller and more built-in one compact unit.
rabtech Thank you for the photos also. What intake manifold are you using? I can see a piece of your throttle body elbow...
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Does the EVAP Solenoid line at the Intake Manifold have a one-way check valve?
Looks like the DDM EVAP delete kit comes with a rubber cap that goes to the intake manifold. But my intake manifold may be between 15-25psig.
I could remove the intake manifold and put a boost rated "Airborne" custom cap if needed.
Would I need the DDM EVAP delete kit with a Haltech ECU, I believe not?
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Does the EVAP Solenoid line at the Intake Manifold have a one-way check valve?
Looks like the DDM EVAP delete kit comes with a rubber cap that goes to the intake manifold. But my intake manifold may be between 15-25psig.
I could remove the intake manifold and put a boost rated "Airborne" custom cap if needed.
Would I need the DDM EVAP delete kit with a Haltech ECU, I believe not?
The EVAP solenoid does not have a one way check valve. If you switch over to the Haltech you do not need the EVAP solenoid and can remove it from the back of the engine and just cap the nipple on the intake manifold, or use it for a boost reference.
