Better headlight bulbs

  • I recently had a Sylvania Halogen bulb go out on my 2013 Ford Edge and replaced it with the standard Sylvania bulb and was greatly disappointed how poorly the new bulb threw light down the road. I replaced both of my headlight bulbs with Gooauti LED bulbs (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZCTHX3W/) and have been very pleased with the performance of the new bulbs. I ordered some H3 bulbs from the same manufacturer - https://smile.amazon.com/Gooau…ight-Bulbs/dp/B07ZCTQDKT/. Listings for both bulbs show images that imply the LEDs are positioned pretty closely to where the halogen element would be in an equivalent bulb and I have found the light output to be reasonably well concentrated down the road with minimal areas of poor light distribution.

    I haven't yet figured out how to install these in my Slingshot headlights since I had to modify the headlights when I installed the LED bulbs from SSO.

  • That was a great video, but now I feel I need to keep doing research to find the right headlights to replace these crappy stock ones......

    Back to reading =)

    .::. Knowledge, like air, is vital to life. Like air, no one should be denied it .::.

  • That was a great video, but now I feel I need to keep doing research to find the right headlights to replace these crappy stock ones......

    Back to reading =)

    If at all possible, try to get an idea of how the light element compares between an LED bulb and its filament equivalent.

    I think one of the main limiting factors in the Slingshot's light output is the relatively low headlight position making it hard to get light down the road w/o too much light ending up in oncoming drivers' eyes.

    Edited once, last by BKL ().



  • The whole thing was under $35. I used speaker wire & tapped into fog light wiring for power. Also used clear silicone to seal the light bar, wire input, around the front plexiglass lens. Also took off end caps & sealed them. Some reviews complained about water intrusions and some LED elements shorting out - I've had no problems after 9+ months.

    Thanks Doc&Ruby

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    S O G Member - TRAKHAMR

  • Something else to consider when dealing with not enough light from your Slingshot headlights is the center nose piece with the Polaris name on it. In my case, the top of the nose piece seems to cut-off all light going forward from my center headlights, a factor that has bugged me for a while now. I'd like to remove or trim the nose piece so it allows all of the center headlights' output to actually hit the road in front of my Slingshot. I think doing so would improve both the Low and High beam performance for the center headlights. The center nose piece retails for over $200, so I think I'd rather remove it than trim it, but I don't know what removing it might do to the hood's stability. Anybody have experience removing the nose piece? Do I need to remove the painted hood panels in order to gain access to the nose piece?

  • BKL I my memory serves me right Painter had some videos on here on panel removal. I have my hood removed right now and it looks like the front bumper panels have to be removed to just get the nose piece out. If i remember right

    In glancing at the front of the hood, it looks to me like I either need to remove the hood panels to remove the nose piece or just cut the nose piece to see what impact that has on forward lighting. It's been 3 years since I had the body panels off for repainting and I can't say I'm looking forward to removing the hood panels, but at least I didn't use tape when I put everything back together last time!

    I also saved a copy of all of @Painter's body panel video.

  • Something else to consider when dealing with not enough light from your Slingshot headlights is the center nose piece with the Polaris name on it. In my case, the top of the nose piece seems to cut-off all light going forward from my center headlights, a factor that has bugged me for a while now. I'd like to remove or trim the nose piece so it allows all of the center headlights' output to actually hit the road in front of my Slingshot. I think doing so would improve both the Low and High beam performance for the center headlights. The center nose piece retails for over $200, so I think I'd rather remove it than trim it, but I don't know what removing it might do to the hood's stability. Anybody have experience removing the nose piece? Do I need to remove the painted hood panels in order to gain access to the nose piece?

    I think I read a post someplace about this issue and the poster said the mount that holds the 2 center lights is adjustable and can be raised so the the lights are not blocked by the nose piece - - not sure if any modification was needed but at the time I recall thinking it was good to know as I have been a bit bugged by the way the bottom of the lights is cut off


    anyway might be worth looking at before going to all of the work to alter the nose piece

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  • I think I read a post someplace about this issue and the poster said the mount that holds the 2 center lights is adjustable and can be raised so the the lights are not blocked by the nose piece - - not sure if any modification was needed but at the time I recall thinking it was good to know as I have been a bit bugged by the way the bottom of the lights is cut off


    anyway might be worth looking at before going to all of the work to alter the nose piece

    After reading this, I checked the parts diagram, but, unfortunately, I couldn't see any way to adjust the bracket up or down.

    My dreams are crushed! JK, it sure would have been nice if it would've worked!

  • BKL I my memory serves me right Painter had some videos on here on panel removal. I have my hood removed right now and it looks like the front bumper panels have to be removed to just get the nose piece out. If i remember right

    Sorry but been a little tied up!
    If you are talking about removing the Nose Piece (With the “Polaris” in it), you have to remove the Vent, Hood Inserts, Fenders and Hood to get that thing off. It is friction fit to the hood subframe. My Videos should help even though they are old.... like me!

  • Sorry but been a little tied up!
    If you are talking about removing the Nose Piece (With the “Polaris” in it), you have to remove the Vent, Hood Inserts, Fenders and Hood to get that thing off. It is friction fit to the hood subframe. My Videos should help even though they are old.... like me!

    I've seen all of your videos, but couldn't remember seeing anything about the nose piece. I'll go watch them again. Thanks.

  • if you look at this picture....that’s the way it’s designed....



    make sure they are properly aligned...

    In this picture it looks like the light isn’t supposed to shine directly Down on the road.....

    That focal point is way out in front of the vehicle.


    from your previous picture....the only adjustments are on the bulbs.

  • I replaced all factory bulbs with 35 Watt 5000K HID bulbs and drivers.

    HUGE difference.


    The H3's are "Kensun" brand. An excellent company with great customer service. They actually sent me a free harness when the bulbs flickered in another vehicle due to a CanBus thing.

    The H11's are "Innovited" brand.


    Both have been installed for 2 full seasons without any failure.

  • I had 2 more burn out yesterday. Bought LEDs from slingmods. Not concerned about how illuminating they are since I very rarely drive at night. Hope they last as long as I have the sling.

    slingmods replaced mine under the bulb warranty. Those lights have a warranty and if you buy them from amazon you can extend the warranty 5 years for a few dollars.

  • I've seen all of your videos, but couldn't remember seeing anything about the nose piece. I'll go watch them again. Thanks.

    stopped short of the nose piece but it’s in the subframe and has three friction tabs on each side. Use your thumb from the underside and push tabs to release nose piece.... EASY!