ZZPerformance Rear Exit Exhaust!!!!!!

  • We had a “warm” day here the other day and we thought what better way to give everyone a listen to our new rear exit exhaust than to go out and to some burn outs and a little hooning around.


    The rear exit will be available in 1-2 weeks for both NA and turbo slingshots. For the NA setup it will be coupled with our stainless header. For the turbo guys it will be an option with our turbo kit. This exhaust is like nothing else on the market. It uses a 3” down pipe which no other company does. It then heads down into the trans tunnel at 2.5” and exits out the back. It runs through one of our ZZPerformance mini resonators which you’ll hear produces a nice throaty growl without sounding “ricey” like a Honda Civic. You’ll have your choice of 2 tips. The blued one you’ll see in the video and an all chrome slash tip. The other feature that sets this apart from everything else is that it is modular. For those looking for that straight pipe sound once in a while, you can add the optional chrome drag tip which will end the exhaust right where it exits out from under the rear. Changing from one set up to the other can be done in less than 2 minutes.


    Now you’re thinking this sounds great but 2” exhausts out there cost $1500 and 2.5” exhausts cost $2k. How much is this going to cost offering more flow and more options than anything else out on the market? Well our slogan is go fast not broke, and we are going to be selling the turbo version for $999.99. That’s $1000 LESS than anything comparable that’s out there. The NA version will be a little more since it will be coupled with our stainless header as an exhaust package. I am still working out pricing on that. And the other great part? It’s all hand made in house using our CNC mandrel bender and assembled by our fabrication team. If you have any questions feel free to reach out here or email me directly at Kyle@zzperformance.com


    You can check it out here

    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

    Edited once, last by Kyle D ().

  • Damn... If I hadn't gotten the Welter Duals already, used of course, for $600... This thing looks and sounds really good Kyle!


    How are fumes? And any possible trade discounts? 😂

    I have one guy here locally testing out one of them for me and he says he doesn't notice any fumes coming back in. My Sling runs on a blend of E98 and 110 so I never smell fumes and if I do, it doesn't have a heavy smell like gasoline. But it is also still only in the 30s and 40s here so not a lot of street time on them yet. It's mostly just been dyno testing with them. It should be in the 50s next week so I'll take out the other guys Sling for a bit so I can see about fumes for myself.


    As for the trade discount, sell your Welter to someone and lets get you into one of these.

    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

  • Bring it down here for a week and we can ride and test it out. I have plenty of room and it’s 85*. Leave the corona at home and it’s BYOTP.



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  • Kyle D your an ass :00008356:would you quite making things that I want! Now I have another mod on my list. Hopefully after this damn virus is finished the Canadian dollar will come back somewhat closer. Right now hovering at the $.40 cent mark is a killer for mod money.

  • Ordered my NA exhaust system today along with couple other items looks like sling will be down most of winter for upgrades lol I still have a set of gauges I bought 2 years ago.Cant wait to get started.

  • I've had this setup on Ruby for a couple months now. Great sound, engine breathes beautifully.

    Can't say I've *never* smelled fumes, but very rarely and not overwhelming when I do. Depends on the wind, etc.

    The only disadvantages I've noticed so far are that I get a bit more heat coming up through the transmission tunnel (I do not have a heat kit installed). This has only been an issue in hot weather. Today's 150 mile ride in mid-60's and didn't notice it at all. If you are getting this and ride in warm weather, you may seriously want to consider getting a heat kit installed prior. (Or maybe Kyle will consider offering a wrapped exhaust... Ruby can be your test platform!)

    The only other issue is that the rear exhaust does make it more difficult to drain & refill the oil on the angle drive. But then, I would think any rear exit kit would do the same.

    Happy to take any prospective buyer for a ride! 8)

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • Find a way to seal up the holes around the pedals and you will see a major difference in the heat. On my Sling I the pedals are sealed off but on Sling II I have not taken the time to seal them. Sling I is like riding with AC compared to the heat on the 2016 Sling II

  • Find a way to seal up the holes around the pedals and you will see a major difference in the heat. On my Sling I the pedals are sealed off but on Sling II I have not taken the time to seal them. Sling I is like riding with AC compared to the heat on the 2016 Sling II

    FunCycle is spot on. I get a lot of heat in the cockpit and a good deal of the driver's side heat is due to the openings I haven't gotten around to plugging up! I keep planning on getting around to it, but I really hate the contortions required to work down near the pedals!:cursing:

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • Find a way to seal up the holes around the pedals and you will see a major difference in the heat. On my Sling I the pedals are sealed off but on Sling II I have not taken the time to seal them. Sling I is like riding with AC compared to the heat on the 2016 Sling II

    Sounds good... what did you use to do this?

    Just thinking that you would have to get something flexible to seal & deal with pedal movement?

    Any photos from members who have done this would be great! :thumbsup:

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • FunCycle is spot on. I get a lot of heat in the cockpit and a good deal of the driver's side heat is due to the openings I haven't gotten around to plugging up! I keep planning on getting around to it, but I really hate the contortions required to work down near the pedals!:cursing:

    I am going to remove the seat and the steering wheel to do this to Sling II over the winter. There is a DIY on how I did it, I use the window shield rubber like was used in the old cars, one is 5/8 inch and the other is 1/2 inch wide and made a pattern of the pedal hole and cut the rubber to fit and used RTV as a glue to hold the rubber in place. It is a pain to do but it works. If done correctly the two pieces of rubber overlap each other and the pedals moves in between. I think I am the only person to do it this way.