Here is the procedure I used for the painting of the calipers. I used
Dupli-color engine enamel with ceramic. 3-4 coats. No primer but it is available should you want to go there. I did not use it on my prior calipers on my last sling and it stayed on and looked great. Also a can of Duple-color clear in the high heat as well. Two finish coats. Both go to 500 degrees. Dries fast. One can of each.
Materials are some masking tape, plastic wrap or a trash bag, a large can of break cleaner. Depending on the condition of your calipers and how clean they are to start you may wish to have a small toothbrush or the like to spray - scrub - spray. I did on my last SS just pull the wheels and use a scrub brush and soap and water to start. Spend the time, get ‘em clean, let them dry and start taping.
The blue painters tape I used worked but the tack was a little low. Using a tape that had a bit more stick would have been nice. I used a 1” tape. Having a 1/2” roll as well would be nice too. The little rubber boots are just under an inch so you have to tear the tape to go around nice. There are 3-4 bolt heads, two rubber boots and the nipple for the fluid to tape around. I stopped the tape where the spring for the rear break starts and made my line around there. Take the plastic wrap and pull it tight and in-between the rotor and pad works great.
The hole in the center of the caliber back means you will have some over spray on the rotor. When done and all the tape is off rotate the rotor and clean off with some paint thinner. All in all the rear break took about 2 hours to complete. Spend the time to tape off your bolts and make sure you put plastic out enough so there is no over spray.
Very important! This paint is thin. Make your first coat very light. Just a shade. Then get a little more on the second coat then you can be more aggressive on the third. This paint will run and drip if you try to get to much on. Go slow, take your time with prep and painting and you will not be disappointed! Having the bolt heads taped off and the rubber boot makes it look like you took them off to paint.
Lastly and I think we all know this but it is good to hammer home. Use Jack stands,
Put wood blocks under the frame. Leave the jack snug under the frame. You will be putting your head in the wheel wells and taping off spots that are "in the sling” so having the SS triple protected with Blocks, jack stands, and jack WITH 2x4’s behind the wheels I think is a must! I did the rear wheel first - left the front wheels on and blocked both in front and rear on a level surface. Blocked the frame on both sides and left the jack on too. YOU CAN’T BE TOO SAFE!
Have fun - I really like how this came out!
Looks good either way. It's the details that make each one unique.
