Does anyone have trouble with their Slingshot SL dying in idle. Most times I be stop at traffic light my Slingshot engine dies on me.
Engine dying
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Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere to me. I would start there on a stock SS to see if any of the lines are dry rotted or perhaps came off.
Keep us posted and good luck!
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Yes but only when during the first start. Every time, other than when it is in the dead of summer, it will cut off during the first start. After that it starts and remains on just fine. Go figure.
Does anyone have trouble with their Slingshot SL dying in idle. Most times I be stop at traffic light my Slingshot engine dies on me.
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Does anyone have trouble with their Slingshot SL dying in idle. Most times I be stop at traffic light my Slingshot engine dies on me.
Do you have any modifications to your Slingshot?
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Mine does the same thing pretty regularly and has since the day I bought it new. With mine, it primarily happens after downshifting to prepare to stop. Basically in a situation where the engine RPM is fairly high but my foot is off the gas (using engine braking to decelerate) if I then push the clutch in, the RPM will fall way down below 500, and often doesn't recover and stalls.
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Had the same problem, started using the brake to stop instead of downshifting and rarely have that problem anymore. Mine never died though just low RPMs
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Mine does the same thing pretty regularly and has since the day I bought it new. With mine, it primarily happens after downshifting to prepare to stop. Basically in a situation where the engine RPM is fairly high but my foot is off the gas (using engine braking to decelerate) if I then push the clutch in, the RPM will fall way down below 500, and often doesn't recover and stalls.
Like Slopoke mentioned, a lot of times a vacuum leak will cause this. On the Slingshot naturally aspirated engines, there is a 90 degree plastic elbow that is just below the throttle body that should have a rubber cap on it, make sure that is pushed all the way on. Also, there is a hard black plastic line that comes off just above the throttle body and goes to a black solenoid valve mounted to the back of the engine. That Solenoid valve should have a cap on the other end of it, or a line going back towards the gas tank if it is a California model, make sure that is correct also. Lastly, you can check for a leak at the fuel injectors and MAP sensor by spraying a little brake cleaner at those parts to see if you hear a change in the engine RPM.
The stock tune in the ECM's have some pretty weird throttle mapping for sure that can be corrected, but definitely would check all the easy stuff first.
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I would definitely check all of the things that Dave mentioned first. If you still cannot resolve the issue, we sell a tune for the NA slingshot that will remedy this. One of the things we do is raise the idle RPM to 1000 vs the stock setting of 750. They seem to be a lot happier there and idle a lot better. You'll also get more throttle response and better mid-range performance. You can check it out here https://zzperformance.com/coll…tune-for-the-na-slingshot But definitely check everything else first. No sense in spending money if it is something that can easily be fixed with something as simple as a rubber boot or o-ring.
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Like Slopoke mentioned, a lot of times a vacuum leak will cause this. On the Slingshot naturally aspirated engines, there is a 90 degree plastic elbow that is just below the throttle body that should have a rubber cap on it, make sure that is pushed all the way on. Also, there is a hard black plastic line that comes off just above the throttle body and goes to a black solenoid valve mounted to the back of the engine. That Solenoid valve should have a cap on the other end of it, or a line going back towards the gas tank if it is a California model, make sure that is correct also. Lastly, you can check for a leak at the fuel injectors and MAP sensor by spraying a little brake cleaner at those parts to see if you hear a change in the engine RPM.
The stock tune in the ECM's have some pretty weird throttle mapping for sure that can be corrected, but definitely would check all the easy stuff first.
"DO NOT GET BRAKE CLEANER ON PAINTED PARTS"
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Like Slopoke mentioned, a lot of times a vacuum leak will cause this.
I didn't really investigate that possibility because typically when I've seen vacuum leaks in the past on other engines, it causes a pretty rough idle too, but I'll check these items out. Thanks much.
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I didn't really investigate that possibility because typically when I've seen vacuum leaks in the past on other engines, it causes a pretty rough idle too, but I'll check these items out. Thanks much.
If the vacuum leak is at the fuel injectors or MAP sensor, the ECM can pull down the idle enough by shutting the throttle body to control idle still decently well. If the cap is completely off the big nipple below the throttle body, that will definitely increase idle speed a lot, but we have seen the cap come partially off and cause a small air leak there. The EVAP canister on the back of the cylinder head opens under certain driving conditions only, so if the cap is off back there, it can cause a leak sometimes and not other times.
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ANT PAINTED PARTS"
Those ANT parts are a pain to re-paint
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cajuntrikker if there was any doubt you came to the right spot for your SS you can put that to rest.
You posted on Sunday and you have gotten a bunch of replies from da guru’s - the wizards of smart. This was my experience as well. Hope you find your stalling issue!
Good family here!
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could it be a lack of fuel issue....cheap gas, dirty fuel filter, fuel pump crapping out, pinched fuel line......throttle position sensor issue?
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Mine does the same thing pretty regularly and has since the day I bought it new. With mine, it primarily happens after downshifting to prepare to stop. Basically in a situation where the engine RPM is fairly high but my foot is off the gas (using engine braking to decelerate) if I then push the clutch in, the RPM will fall way down below 500, and often doesn't recover and stalls.
Perfectly explained. We took out new SS out yesterday for about a 200 mile ride. Mine did exactly the same thing. Not all the time but a few times.. And when it didn't completely stall the RPM's would drop to just above a stall and then recover to idle... I'm going to read the rest of this thread but have you found the issue yet? SZurlo
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loose wire, bad sensor, sensor not set correctly or ECM isn’t tuned right.
does it do it every time or is it an intermittent thing?
I hope it’s not cheap gas.... -
Perfectly explained. We took out new SS out yesterday for about a 200 mile ride. Mine did exactly the same thing. Not all the time but a few times.. And when it didn't completely stall the RPM's would drop to just above a stall and then recover to idle... I'm going to read the rest of this thread but have you found the issue yet? SZurlo
Check with your dealer. IIRC, Polaris changed the tune to correct that. If that doesn't work, I believe the aftermarket tune from http://mefiburn.com/slingshottune.asp might fix that, but it's rather expensive, so see if you can get the dealer to reflash your ECU and hopefully fix the problem.
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Check with your dealer. IIRC, Polaris changed the tune to correct that. If that doesn't work, I believe the aftermarket tune from http://mefiburn.com/slingshottune.asp might fix that, but it's rather expensive, so see if you can get the dealer to reflash your ECU and hopefully fix the problem.
Fixed. Dealer fixed it this morning.. No problems anymore... yet...LOL
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Not funny, but more to the odd that Polaris hasn't done much with ECU tune since late 2016 when they fine tuned the steering glitch.
They should have bumped up idle RPM to 900-1000 range.
But, with the new 2020, guess they had to go to the ECU.
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