Traction Control light stays on

sounds like a bad connection or sensor.

Funny Doc, got the same thing this AM (low-50's). Turning off/on the SS didn't reset it but driving it a little ways did. Has happened a couple times, but I don't think cold weather has much to do with it.

Doc&Ruby The main component for Traction Contorl System is the Wheel Speed Sensors. You have one on each wheel and they feed wheel speed information to the ECM to determine if traction control is needed. Find where they plug in and unplug them and plug back in again. Do this for each one. Most times when TC light comes on, there is a problem with the Wheel Sensors. It is worth a try. Usually when they are bad, it just stays in. Since yours is intermittant, you could just have a connection that has resistance in it. Re plugging it may correct the problem.

In cold weather metal connection points contract and this could be just enough to cause more resistance in the connection. This is the most logical thing for a problem like you are describing.

Good Luck, I know how come and go problems can drive you up a wall.

samowens44 by any chance is the Traction control System connected to the ambient temperature sensor? I do not know if this is the case with the slingshot, but I do believe that some systems incorporate the temperature sensors into TC so that the system can better respond to situations when ice is likely - - - if this is the case with the TC on the slingshot that might help understand why it does not happen in warm weather

Quote from Edward Neal

samowens44 by any chance is the Traction control System connected to the ambient temperature sensor? I do not know if this is the case with the slingshot, but I do believe that some systems incorporate the temperature sensors into TC so that the system can better respond to situations when ice is likely - - - if this is the case with the TC on the slingshot that might help understand why it does not happen in warm weather

That is a good point, but do not have knowledge of the details of the Traction control system for the Slingshot. I just have a basic understanding of the system. Coming and going problems in most cases is caused by added resistance to the system in the electrical circuit. The best place for that to happen is the connectors. Working for the telephone company for 28 years has show me bad connections are the the best place to look for intermittent problems in an electrical circuit. Most times we can reset a circuit pack and correct a problem. With relays dirty contacts will lead to a lot of intermittent troubles. In this case, we only have the Speed Sensor pickup head and a connector that goes to the ECU. the connectors are exposed to water, dirt and cold, to me I would eliminate it as a source of problems by re-plugging the connections. If the problem still exist, we may need more help as the ECU or if there is a temp sensor, it could be causing an issue into the equations. Good Luck Doc, and thanks Edward Neal for adding another element of possibilities to this unique problem.

One more thing to isolate this problem would be to push the ESP switch on the center console to turn off Traction Control. ESP is still in effect, but let's see if the Traction Control light comes on and stays on, this is normal. Now after a short ride, push the Switch again to turn Traction Control back on. Does the light go out. Does it stay out. The switch could be a source of trouble also. We are trying to eliminate possible troubles by doing this test. Keep us informed. Others may have knowledge that will help.

ESP (Electronic Stability Program) is deactivated by pressing the ESP switch for more than 5 sec. When you do this, all safety controls are off and you are riding on your own with not interactive control.

Thanks for the info. I'll try it tonight. I can say turning off/on the ESP switch does nothing for the light.

Quote from chavey2

Thanks for the info. I'll try it tonight. I can say turning off/on the ESP switch does nothing for the light.

Thanks for the input!

Looking at the wiring schematic, I don’t see any connection between air temp and traction sensors..

Quote from Doc&Ruby

Thanks Sam, I'll give it a try & let you know how it works!

Doc, we are isolating our problem, your results will help direct the next step. It is important to do each wheel. Any one can cause the problem.

Okay, so how do you get the plug off? I've tried pushing and pulling that red part, plus sticking a screwdriver (actually my key) down alongside into the slot and nuttin'.

I believe the red tab is a locking tab and it must be pushed, pulled or slide to allow the release tab to be pushed to allow the plug to be removed. Look at it carefully and this should not be something you need to use tools to pry on. You fingers should do the job. Be careful, you do not want to damage the plug. Hope someone will come to the rescue and tell us for sure. Until then, here is my Jeep ECU plug that has a red locking tab. Take a look at the photo and see if this will help with your plug.

As I show, this red tab slides and that allows the tab to be pushed down without the red cover over the end. I push down on that tab and it pulls up on the lock that holds the plug locked in position. When you see a red tab that means it is a lock.

chavey2 Looking at your photo, it look like the red tab will pull down and there will be a tab you will be able to push to release the plug. Look at it carefully, it may slide down, not sure. It should move away from the canal that it is covering, that will be where the tab is located. Leave it along until someone can tell us exactly how it releases. That assembly on the plug is the release and the red cap is locking the tab from being pushed. I am sure this is to keep people from accidentally unplugging this as it is part of your safety programs. Folks, don't mess with this if you don't feel like it is something you can figure out, just wait until someone with experience can help. I did not realize there was a lock on the plug,

Okay, so I got the plugs undone last night. The red clip does come out (not in - See #1). However, it only came about 1/8"-3/16" out - not all the way and the plug still wouldn't release. I had to stick a small screwdriver into the other side (#2) and push up towards the clip to get them out.

That being said, both front plugs looked brand new inside. They are sealed against water and I saw no issues at all. The rear plug is located underneath and inside the frame ahead of the swing arm. It would require the SS to be lifted to get to it and I didn't want to F with it last night. TC light was already off on the drive home and didn't show up this AM.

Good Job. right decision to not do more until you evaluate what you have done. Looks like you found a way of releasing the lock on the plug. Just drive and see if it comes back it, you may have corrected the problem by re-seating the plugs at the front. Isolating a problem requires steps like this and then check the results. It is best to do one item at a time to really find out exactly what is causing the problem. Too many things at once leaves you with uncertainty as to what element was bad. "Just saying". Sometimes, it may take longer, depends on the problem. You did right for this trouble.

We are only re-seating and we don't care which one was causing the issue if it works. Just a bad connection.

Hope it never comes back!!

Now that the lights out you could just turn traction control off

I would be interested in knowing if disconnecting the battery ground would clear the light.

Even if it doesn’t immediately clear......it might clear after a few drive cycles...unless there is a defective sensor....

@sam....why isn’t there dielectric grease in those plugs...and is it needed or not?