Brake Failure Light!!! Are you doing it wrong???

    Public Service Annoucement.

    May not pertain to everyone.



    There is plenty of misinformation out in the wild about the Slingshot and the perpetuating of same information.


    Here's an example.

    You just got that infamous catastrophic brake light...

    What is your first thought?

    I am going to guess...

    brake pressure sensors bad.


    Do you know the purpose of brake pressure sensors?


    Going to save myself some typing with a link to wiki...

    Brake Pressure Sensors ... wiki


    Another factor for the light...

    Air in one system, front versus rear.



    The take away on this should be...

    Don't assume that the brake pressure sensors have gone bad until you have verified the integrity of your hydraulic brake system.


    Might want to help your friend check out their brake system rather than...

    "Ah, you'll be fine. Your brake pressure sensors have probably gone bad."


    Carry on...

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    if my brake light switch tripped the failure light....would my brake lights still work....mine do...


    I’m trying process of elimination and considering the bad history of the pressure switches one can easily assume they could be at fault....

    If your error is caused by faulty brake pressure sensors on the Master Cylinder and this is not covered by warranty or the recall, I replaced the sensors myself in about an hour. See the previous posting below:


    No Brakes

    I'm running a 2015 Slingshot. Bought it 13 months ago, and the problem was there when I bought it. Polaris distributor (not my seller) replaced the sensor(s) no charge. Perhaps for safety and liability reasons.


    Yep, no cruise control until it was fixed. :(


    I'm hoping to bypass nearly everything when I get the Haltech 1500. The stock ecu is a mystery box to me. LOL


    Let me know if yall have questions about what happen when you disconnect wires from particular components. I removed about 35% of my wiring harness.

    DDM Stage 3 Turbo / Intercooler / Fuel Rail / Track Clutch

    Magnaflow Short Exhaust / GM 2 Bar MAP Sensor / 60# Fuel Injectors / AEM Air/fuel Gauge / Glow Shift Boost Gauge

    Stock: Radiator, Coolant Resevoir, ECU with Tune, Intake Manifold, Suspension, Brakes

    Stock: 305/45R18 Nitto NT555R not enough traction

    Take the magnetic switch off of the brake pedal and install the old style push button brake switch. It will take you a few minutes with a hack saw, drill motor and a file to make the bracket but once installed and adjusted you will have no more problems. SlingMods also sells the kit.

    Bigdog What, had to replace them twice!


    Hopefully the Haltech can get me around that. Otherwise I might have to install some Arduinos to simulate signals! LOL

    DDM Stage 3 Turbo / Intercooler / Fuel Rail / Track Clutch

    Magnaflow Short Exhaust / GM 2 Bar MAP Sensor / 60# Fuel Injectors / AEM Air/fuel Gauge / Glow Shift Boost Gauge

    Stock: Radiator, Coolant Resevoir, ECU with Tune, Intake Manifold, Suspension, Brakes

    Stock: 305/45R18 Nitto NT555R not enough traction

    Brake fluid in your vehicle two years or older?

    Brake fluid discolored?

    Got a squashy brake pedal?

    Got a brake failure light but no brake fluid leaks?


    Bleed those brakes!




    Watch both vids for best concept.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Some of you seem confused about what I ordered. I bought 2 brake pressure sensors. I have by brakes and brake lights.


    It’s still rainy and chilly out here. So I haven’t had the right weather to work in the driveway.


    I have a box full of new things to install.

    Not confused as to what you bought...

    Never had a reason to replace the sensors, yet.

    I get a brake failure light occasionally... normally on the hottest day of the year, when air bubbles in the line would become the largest. No indications of leaks anywhere.

    Run a flush and bleed...

    Good to go for another year.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:



    Brake sensor switches (there are 2 on side of master cylinder - replace both at same time) could be the problem. Known issue covered under warranty.

    Slingshots: making children out of adults since 2014


    if I wanted to flush the entire master cylinder instead of flushing all the dirt in to every line...I would drain the entire master cylinder using the closet wheel......after all the dirty fluid was emptied out of the master cylinder at the closet wheel....then I would start at the farthest wheel and work my way to the closet wheel. As each wheel fluid runs clear you know that entire line is flushed. Then finish by bleeding the closest wheel again.

    Quote from draj3878

    So I just got the brake failure light on my 2016. Cruise control still works, brake light comes on, and I have brakes. Would the next course of action be flush the brakes?

    Less likely to be the brake pressure sensors since the CC still works. As far as the brake pressure sensors being covered under a special warranty, I believe Polaris only made that effective thru Dec 31, 2020.

    i bought the 2016.5 new and never had the failure light come on untill I took it in for the recall. As soon as I left the dealer the light came on. I stopped, turned off the key and restarted. Light went off and came back on when I braked at the next intersection. Took it home bled the brakes. Pedal is not mushy but the problem still exists but occurs from time to time. The dealaer also re-bled the brakes and the problem would come back in a couple days.Today I decided to replace both sensors at the house. Once finished I took it done the road and tried some hard braking and everything was fine. As I was coasting in the driveway the light came on. I wasn't even braking. Now it comes on while cruising and resets by cycling the ignition. I will try to bleed again, but I like the feel of the pedal. Oh well...