Moderator notice
Whenever I search knock sensor (25 clicks) and click on
Check Engine Light On - Code Displayed
It doesn’t open I get this screen instead
Do we have to do all this if we change the knock sensor?....
Have the following code tripping the CEL, 0-65551-5, which is knock sensor open. I replaced the knock sensor and did have the ECM unplugged for 6+ hours prior to doing so. I have tried the key on/off 5 times as suggested, have added octane boost to rule out a bad tank of gas, and have taken 7-8 rides making sure the engine came up to operating temperature each time. The CEL remains. Is there anything left to look at before heading to the dealer to have them plug in to clear the code?
I just added a knock sensor to my wish list on amazon. I’ll have it laying around just in case....
it will take a while before it goes away. No specific timer. Post a pic of your old knock sensor...
I’m not having an issue with mine...but I figured I would buy one to have on hand since they seem to be problematic.
GM part but still had to take to dealer to clear the code.
I had the same issue. My wife and I decided to take a 3.5 hour road trip to Brewer Cycles in Henderson, NC. I could have opted for a 4-mile drive to my local dealer...but that is another story, for another time.
I told the folks at Brewer's that I had already purchased and installed a new knock sensor. They did some trouble-shooting, found no problems, and reset the Code. They also did "all" my Recall work...minus the battery fuse block. Everybody needs a place like Brewer Cycles in their town. Great service, and great people!
A point of some interest: it's a common misconception that a sensor replacement will fix codes. While this is true in some cases, the code isn't stating that sensor replacement is the remedy. It's merely showing us that the sensor system or circuit in question has behaved in a fashion that exceeds parameters for the monitoring routines assigned.
The actual fault can be many things, and at times can even be spurious as noted above. To determine the actual cause, a diagnostician equipped with the capability and documentation will run a series of tests which take into account numerous aspects, including wiring, connectors, voltage performance, resistance, PCM, and a host of other possibilities. Anything else is just guesswork.
Over the years, I've seen innumerable sensors replaced that didn't actually address the actual problem at hand, so I thought I'd toss this out there. Proper diagnostic approach is the most effective, and usually, least costly method in terms of cost and inconvenience vs. dependable
results.
