And exactly where do I start? Is that Chinese?
I got 10 pages of this.....from that link....
And exactly where do I start? Is that Chinese?
I got 10 pages of this.....from that link....
it's a PDF, download it if needed, or use a different browser
Bigdog...
My electric heater glows red but doesn't blow a circuit.
Any chance the resistance in the blade connections might cause a high heat condition. The amperage is not exceeding the fuse but the resitance encountered creates heat.
Your heater is designed to glow red....our slingshot chassis circuit was not.....
Check the resistance between your ears.....I suspect it’s a clear shot...
....I took the cover off the fuse block but can't remember what exactly does that top fuse control since that was this morning , has anyone blown that fuse and know what goes out, because that's the circuit I guess we have to watch what we add to it, to cause it to overheat...
I would rather have this instead https://www.amazon.com/STETION…ersive-view_1571959209621
....now that you Put this bug in my head & I just had a chance to look in my garage and see that I have none left , I'm going to pick up a couple of em and knowing me I'll be installing one ...I'll snap some pics if I do....
....i do know there are 3 wires coming into the back of that plug of the J fuse block and they aren't 6 or 8 gauge wire , more like 10 gauge...if you add a thicker wire you will really be heating up your wiring that wasn't changed out......sticking with the same size gauge will allow any heat or shortages to go directly to the fuse and make it pop BUT then again how did we get here in the first place , a fuse not popping
Meh - I am not going to worry about it. I have had no issues so far and I suspect it will be just fine - especially considering I have not added anything in the way of additional lighting or other such things
After just doing an inspection of our fuse block, ( RECALL NOTICE 2015- 2019 ALL MODELS), I now share your sentiments!
Bill
After just doing an inspection of our fuse block, ( RECALL NOTICE 2015- 2019 ALL MODELS), I now share your sentiments!
Bill
I should probably pull the cover and take a look this weekend - cant hurt
....I took the cover off the fuse block but can't remember what exactly does that top fuse control since that was this morning , has anyone blown that fuse and know what goes out, because that's the circuit I guess we have to watch what we add to it, to cause it to overheat...
Look at the schematic in post 79
The drawings is for a 2015
But the top two in the drawing are only 40 amp with the bottom one being 50
If the J Case is that screwed up maybe changing all three to something else is a good idea
sounds like Polaris didn’t leave much room for error in the wiring harness.
Better plan on adding some type of an auxiliary fuse box with a big fat wire hooked directly to the battery
The best fix would be to break up the chassis circuit in to two separate circuits. Figuring out how to split the load would be the biggest issue.
I just found this. The chassis circuit also feeds all or part of the ESP system
Looks like the nanny system
...out doing my normal errands and look what I found, rated for 60amp and 8 gauge wire......but im leaning more towards the one with the reset button now but couldn't find any rated 50amp only 150amp, so ill be ordering one..
I have been thinking about doing it myself, but if I do and then something further down the line melts or gets fried I suspect that would be cause for Polaris to say they are not responsible - not sure if its worth it, or if I would be better off letting them do it at my convenience and then having it in the record
wouldn't want to give them any excuses to mess with my extended warranty
I am wondering if Polaris is doing the full mod on all SlingShots, or only to those with observed damage? We are not going to bother riding 200 miles one way just to be told there is nothing wrong, which we already know?
Oh, another question, if Polaris is choosing to do this mod on all SlingShots, and we choose not to get the mod done at this time, (why fix something that is not broken?), what if by chance the fuse box does fail years down the road, is Polaris compelled still to comply with this recall?
Though, an additional concern is that dealers keep getting further and further away?
Bill
.....I would be the first to tell anyone who OWNS anything still under warranty or an extended warranty ......TAKE IT TO THE DEALER......
......But since my warranty is about over & I fully trust my work ...I'm not concerned....
As a side note I have not yet received any official notification of this recall - if it were not for this forum I wouldn't even have checked my VIN
as such I have no problem waiting until I do get a letter before bothering to call the dealer
Inspected it and it looks fine. No signs of over heating at all
Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
.....I would be the first to tell anyone who OWNS anything still under warranty or an extended warranty ......TAKE IT TO THE DEALER......
......But since my warranty is about over & I fully trust my work ...I'm not concerned....
A recall must be fixed regardless of in or out of warranty....
As mentioned the pick and choose things raises some questions.....
With The killer airbag recall they don’t wait for it to blow up before they say it needs changed. They are changing every air bag with bad serial numbers....
If they don’t fix it and something happens I would say they still own it for failing to actually fix the problem.
That said, I found out some of the stuff on the chassis circuit. Everything in yellow.
Inspected it and it looks fine. No signs of over heating at all
Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
What year is your slingshot..... my 2015 schematic shows the top fuse is for the engine circuit 40 amps. Middle fuse 40 amp. Bottom fuse 50 amp. The melting is on the back of the J Case.
Check your schematic.