My thoughts exactly. So I will be taking it in for the recall because Polaris never could figure out why it melted. Now I'll be curious to see if they stand up and refund my money because one of the conditions that I signed off on was I would not make this public
Safety Recall T‑19‑01
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....also since yours has been fine ever since , have you added any electrical mods (LEDs, etc...)
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No I just added the Plug and Play horn
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..... WHAT......they better be glad it wasn't me because that NDA would have included a new SLR every March at my house DELIVERED ! EVERY YEAR
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yeah you can't fight City Hall
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Well now we wait to see what Polaris has found and the fix.....
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yes my machine was number 641 off the line. It's pretty hard to demand things to be fixed when you know the manufacturer has the market cornered and there's really no other alternative available.
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just looked on the NHTSA site and read about this recall and tis is the fix:
"RemedyDEALER TO INSPECT THE BATTERY FUSE BLOCK TERMINALS AND RELOCATE THE 50A MAIN CHASSIS FUSE"
I wonder where they relocate the fuse to
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They must have some new wiring that plugs into where the 50 amp Amp Fuse is and move the fuse away from the heat source would be my guess. I just chalk this up to my rear wheel spoke breaking the other day. Could be these lovely roads in Maine full of potholes. So I bought new Wheels all the way around 19 on front 20 on rear 305 30zr20. On second thought that would be kind of stupid because the 50 amp fuse isn't blowing and that's the problem
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Curious where they are going to relocate it to.
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Curious where they are going to relocate it to.
more curious to know if it is something that can be done without taking it to a dealer
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They must have some new wiring that plugs into where the 50 amp Amp Fuse is and move the fuse away from the heat source would be my guess. I just chalk this up to my rear wheel spoke breaking the other day. Could be these lovely roads in Maine full of potholes. So I bought new Wheels all the way around 19 on front 20 on rear 305 30zr20. On second thought that would be kind of stupid because the 50 amp fuse isn't blowing and that's the problem
.... what heat source......except for us with the rear exhaust MAYBE
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Sure, just need a longer positive cable and find a good location to mount the fuse block
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more curious to know if it is something that can be done without taking it to a dealer
Exactly ! If it can't be done while I wait then it will get done right here by me !
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like I said on second thought that was a stupid comment about heat Source I made
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problem is the 50 amp fuse wasn't blown in my case and that's what caused the meltdown
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A factory recall like this will probably have to be done by a slingshot mechanic to cover their ass....
The J Case is one unit containing 3 different fuses....so how do you move one to a different location.....and what does the present location have to do with the failure?
Count on your SS being laid up for weeks.....do they even have the parts yet to fix the Recall?
Good thing winter is coming.....they can keep it garaged all winter....
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problem is the 50 amp fuse wasn't blown in my case and that's what caused the meltdown
Sounds like a faulty fuse failing to pop, like maybe it should have been a 40 amp instead of the 50 ......and once they remedy yours , did they use the same type of fuse and same amperage
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It i interesting to think about this especially when you think about some of the extreme extra lighting and other electrical goodies that some owners have added
you would think that if this were a borderline product that could fail this way that added electronics would have made this an issue a long time ago
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by adding all the electronic mods we are overloading the factory wiring. It’s like using a 14 gauge house wiring instead of a 12 gauge. The more current you draw the bigger the wire needs to be.
That’s one of the reasons I ran a big fat wire from the battery to the front under the hood for my neutrino and other stuff.
If you’re running all your electronics off the factory wiring you are probably overloading the wiring.