Turn signal question

Quote from SoCal

Ok here is an update on the switchbacks. I called TricLED this morning and got connected right away to their tech dept. How cool is that!? A real person that cares and listens!

As of now everything is on hold for me. The good people at TricLED are sending me a new module TODAY( actually two)! I've had my switchbacks for right about a year and they are covering them over and above what I would have expected. The reason for sending two is that the new updated version has a plug and play and the old version is hardwired as I understand it. They want me to have an option no matter what model I have.

The tech dept. said that they did hear of this happening once prior about a year ago but could not replicate the issue with the SS's at their shop. Ya know what - sometimes electronics go bad and for no reason or circumstance - they just do.

My left side works flawlessly - it is just the right side so hopefully this is the cure. No matter what I will post again on this with the results.

In closing - a big thank you to TricLED for treating me in their business like I like to treat my clients in mine. No matter what the outcome to the lights, I couldn’t be happier with the service.

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This is great! Now, all others that are having problems may want to contact the same guy SoCal talked to.

Quote from SoCal

Ok here is an update on the switchbacks. I called TricLED this morning and got connected right away to their tech dept. How cool is that!? A real person that cares and listens!

As of now everything is on hold for me. The good people at TricLED are sending me a new module TODAY( actually two)! I've had my switchbacks for right about a year and they are covering them over and above what I would have expected. The reason for sending two is that the new updated version has a plug and play and the old version is hardwired as I understand it. They want me to have an option no matter what model I have.

The tech dept. said that they did hear of this happening once prior about a year ago but could not replicate the issue with the SS's at their shop. Ya know what - sometimes electronics go bad and for no reason or circumstance - they just do.

My left side works flawlessly - it is just the right side so hopefully this is the cure. No matter what I will post again on this with the results.

In closing - a big thank you to TricLED for treating me in their business like I like to treat my clients in mine. No matter what the outcome to the lights, I couldn’t be happier with the service.

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PM me his name and number.....

Did you mention the resister idea to him?

I’m just wondering if our flasher modules are getting weak from all the extra load from the extra lights...

Quote from SoCal

Bigdog yes I did talk about the resister but he still thinks it is possible that the "black box" is the issue. My Left signal works like a charm - always has. If it was a current issue why not both lights doing the same thing?

I do not have any other lights in this circuit. These are tied in and connected to the OEM wires for the front signals. Nothing else is in the loop.

https://www.tricledusa.com

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That’s funny because it’s my right one that’s acting goofy...too.

You know if it’s not the black box....that opens a can of worms.

The very first mods I did were $1500 of extra lights.....so now 2 1/2 years later things are acting up...... could be the black boxes, could be our flasher modules getting weak...these are all electronic devices which are always subject to failure at some point in time.

Kinda reminds me of the dodges from the 60s -70s ....you always had to have a spare ballast resister in your glove box because they always went bad.

See? It all goes back to tricled... I never said they wouldn't take care of it, they (or slingmods) usually do...

I was just sharing that their products can sometimes have these effects... 🤷🏻‍♂️

The Running Lights for the Switchback will not be a problem at all, they are not in a current monitor system like the Flasher Module.

I will post one more time as to adding a resistor to the turn signal lead to lower current. Socal ordered a 100 ohm resistor of 1/2 watt value. This may be a little light on the requirement. I was going to post the 2 watt 100 ohm resistor I order from ebay for my project. It works great.

I’m waiting to see if the black box is the issue.

@sam, since I have 3 different “black boxes” per side....if I put a 100 ohm resister on each one is that going to be too much? Or should I use a lesser amount of ohms?

And if one black box is bad would it have any effect on the other lights? I have 2 switchbacks and one sequencer ... if not then I suspect our flasher module is the problem...

I will say one thing - this thread has been enough to re-confirm my lack of desire to make any changes in my lighting

heck I almost never even ride at night

Quote from Bigdog

@sam, since I have 3 different “black boxes” per side....if I put a 100 ohm resister on each one is that going to be too much? Or should I use a lesser amount of ohms?

And if one black box is bad would it have any effect on the other lights? I have 2 switchbacks and one sequencer ... if not then I suspect our flasher module is the problem...

Bigdog you need only one 2 watt 100 ohm resistor on the turn signal going to the aux black box. If there are 3 boxes, then they would all be hooked to the one resistor. If each box is attached to a different location on the signal lead then you would need a resistor for each black box. 100 ohms should be fine with which ever hookup you have.

You posted a diagram of a Black Module with three LEDs on the output. I do not understand how 3 boxes would work, that would give you 9 lights on each side. Do you mean 1 black box with three lights on each side.

If that is the case you need the resistor on the input lead that goes to the signal lead.

As far as black boxes going bad, it would only effect the way the lights flash. The black box is only a switching device.

Quote from samowens44

Bigdog you need only one 2 watt 100 ohm resistor on the turn signal going to the aux black box. If there are 3 boxes, then they would all be hooked to the one resistor. If each box is attached to a different location on the signal lead then you would need a resistor for each black box. 100 ohms should be fine with which ever hookup you have.

Yellow block is turn signal

Red lines are hot wires

Blue thing is the resister

Black boxes are black boxes.

Quote from Edward Neal

I will say one thing - this thread has been enough to re-confirm my lack of desire to make any changes in my lighting

heck I almost never even ride at night

Edward Neal , It not as bad as it seems. We only need to add a resistor the whatever device we add to the Turn signal lead if you are having a problem. Some of the LEDs exceed the Flasher Module current limits. It is really a 5 min job to add one resistor to the sides that are failing. That is all there is to it. I had to lay down a lot of base understanding to help explain why the resistor is needed. 2 watt 100 ohm resistor, a soldering iron, solder, and some shrink tubing and your Switchbacks will flash again.

Quote from Bigdog

Yellow block is turn signal

Red lines are hot wires

Blue thing is the resister

Black boxes are black boxes.

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You got it, that is the way it should be hooked up. All current going to the flasher is reduced by the resistor.

Quote from samowens44

Edward Neal , It not as bad as it seems. We only need to add a resistor the whatever device we add to the Turn signal lead if you are having a problem. Some of the LEDs exceed the Flasher Module current limits. It is really a 5 min job to add one resistor to the sides that are failing. That is all there is to it. I had to lay down a lot of base understanding to help explain why the resistor is needed. 2 watt 100 ohm resistor, a soldering iron, solder, and some shrink tubing and your Switchbacks will flash again.

Here is the issue and some manufacturers have already taken care of the problem....the lights we are buying do not come with a resister already installed like the one pictured. There would be no issue at all if they did.....that’s why I reached out to slingmods to talk to the supplier to see if the manufactures can fix the problem by adding the proper resister to their lights.....now that we know there is going to be an ongoing issue because of it.

You can see the outline of the resister....

My light additions are not to aid in my nighttime driving visibility......I added $1500 of lights in order to be seen by other drivers in the daytime and nighttime....

In the daytime people are always pulling over to let me pass.....they can’t figure out if I’m 5-0 or not.....

Bigdog is correct about resistors at each LED by the manufacturer would solve the problem. This would be good for future purchasers of the Light System, but there are so many folks with these without the resistor that are out there causing problems. My solution of adding the resistor to the Turn Sigal Lead will accomplish the same thing as the resistor on the LED. This is a fix for all the folks that have Aux Lighting hooked to their Turn Signal Leads.

As for where the Resistor is placed does not matter, the resistor just lowers the current to allow the limits in the flasher not to be exceeded. It is that simple. Now add the resistor and report your results. If I had a set of switchbacks I would do this and make a video, Snazzy is in Fla and she is being sold soon, so I am kind of out of the loop.