Turn signal question

    Quote from SoCal

    Allllllright samowens44 here we go.... 245 miles with out a hitch! All stock an no issues. So, with the right side switch back being the one that did not work (left one always did even with the solid green) can we assume that the “little black box “ on the right switch back is the culprit!? And if so is it replaceable without having to buy a whole new set??


    making headway 😎

    Great, you have isolated the problem. We have one other thing to do to determine if the box is bad or drawing too much current. You will need to follow the outline test in my post for testing the switchback lights. You ground the black wire and another lead with pos battery touch the each of the other lead. You can test the swichback by turning the ignition switch to on this should light the white running lights if you left them connected up. Then all you need to to is touch the yellow lead so that it blinks. 1 sec on 1 sec off. The running lights should go out and the amber should blink. Do it for about 10 sec. If it works then the driver is most likely good.

    You can hook a 100 ohm resistor to the yellow lead and the other end will go on the connector. I would finish with installing the resistor in the wire by cutting and soldering in the resistor. Test it first with test leads with clips on the end. Drive test it. I will send you a link to where I got my resistors.

    That will be the final test. You are almost to the solution to the real problem. Keep me updated and I will guide you all the way.

    Hope you had a nice ride today.


    Quote from Bigdog

    Could it be the actual turn signal switch on the steering wheel?

    it can not be the signal switch, because it only supplies the Flasher module a signal to start a flashing signal to the turn signal lights. If the switch were bad, it would just interrupt the operation and the lights would just stop flashing and stay off. Dash indicator lights would be off.
    problem is now going to be one of the following:

    Switchback light has a bad driver module that is allowing too much current to flow.
    Switchback is working find, but the LED strip is causing too much current to flow.


    SoCal has proven the entire flasher system is working properly. Problem has to be with the Switchback device. We are now going to test the Switchback and from the results will either change the Switchback for a new one, or add a 100 ohm resistor to the lead that goes to the turn signal lead. I am betting the resistor.

    Thank you samowens44 for your insight on this. Please don’t take my slow rolling on this As a lack of interest or not being appreciative. Hopefully I will get to test this this week or in the next few days when my plate gets a little cleaner. Believe me, this quandary Is deeply underneath my skin and I would definitely like to go with the resistor as opposed to buying the switchbacks again with the possibility of the new ones failing as well.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Quote from SoCal

    Thank you samowens44 for your insight on this. Please don’t take my slow rolling on this As a lack of interest or not being appreciative. Hopefully I will get to test this this week or in the next few days when my plate gets a little cleaner. Believe me, this quandary Is deeply underneath my skin and I would definitely like to go with the resistor as opposed to buying the switchbacks again with the possibility of the new ones failing as well.

    Hey, I understand and am just here as you need help. Keep me updated and I will give you the next step when we get your results from test.

    Folks, I have created a video for the whole world to understand the flasher module of the Slingshot. I have seen numerous post on all the forums of the same problems we have discussed. No one has a sulution. I do, and my video will tell all. Watch all the way through, I cover it all and where we need to go for the true solution above the relay.


    Quote from SoCal

    Thank you samowens44 !


    So knowing that the signals work (switchbacks included) putting a 100 ohm resister in line right before the slingmods connection point on the yellow lead should do the trick?

    SoCal with the swichbacks passing test of lighting properly, then you move to add the 100 ohm resitstor, can be any value close to that if you can't find 100 ohms. to be clear, I attached the photo with some directions as to where to install the resistor along with soldering techniques and using heat shrink tubing.


    Quote from samowens44

    SoCal with the swichbacks passing test of lighting properly, then you move to add the 100 ohm resitstor, can be any value close to that if you can't find 100 ohms. to be clear, I attached the photo with some directions as to where to install the resistor along with soldering techniques and using heat shrink tubing.


    thank you! Wish there were still RadioShack’s around town.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Edited once, last by SoCal ().

    Quote from SoCal

    thank you! Wish there were still RadioShack’s around town.

    Yes, Radio Shack was great for resistors. You have displayed the say ones I got, a 5 pack. Now when you are getting supplys, pick up some 3 or 4 ft test leads with clips on each end and you could just clip the wire ends to resistor and do a test ride, make sure you tape all bare wires or you may have a new problem. Then go get the soldering iron and solder along with shrink tubing to do it up right. Lets do the temp hook up and test and find out if it corrects the problem. Once sure all is ok, finish the connections permanently. If other side becomes a problem, you know what to do.

    Now if it does fail, you may need higher resistance, you just connect another resistor in series with the first one. This will give you 200 ohms. I don't think we are going to need this, but it will save you letting me know and what is the next step.

    You have 5 resistors, you go until it works, so get some. Once you arrive at the correct resistance, we order that resistor value. SoCal, you are going to pioneer what it takes to get the Switchback Lights to work without failure. We are cheering you on!!!

    Quote from SoCal

    Have these coming tomorrow.....100 should do the trick 😎


    That is quick, that should do the job 100 is over kill, but the price is right. This is a current on and off for very short time periods, this resistor will work fine. I am sure you are just on the edge of the Flasher Module Current limits as it works most of the time. Looking forward to the results. If this works, you can be the distributor for the fix all of the Flasher problem!!

    Ok Sam, I have many questions...


    1. My right turn signal quit working again tonight....I had my heated jacket and gloves on just like the last time....so what are the odds of the heated riding gear making this happen,


    2. Are resisters a one way thing or is that a Transistor? Meaning electricity only flows one way...


    3. Many of the tiny light bulbs I bought recently has a resister already on it in the red wire. So what value would they be?


    4. You suggest adding a 100 resister in the add on lights...if every light bulbs we get usually has a resister on it already....why don’t these switchbacks we are buying come with a resister already ...and what value would it. Be? 100


    5. I have 2 switchbacks and a sequencer on each side should each one have a resister in the hot line.. if so what value? Does every light require a resister?


    6. Shouldn’t we all ....of the manufacturers aren’t going to supply them....add a resister to every light we add?


    7. With 3 questionable lights on each side that could be causing a problem on my SS...is 300 ohms too much? Or should we maybe use 3 smaller value resisters?

    Bigdog first, a resistor is a device that controls the amount of current in a circuit. It is like a valve on a you faucet. The higher the resistance the less current. Polarity does not matter.

    As far as adding resistors to all the LEDs you add, no, this is just when you try to add lights to the turn signal leads. The Flasher Module is not heavy duty enough to handle them. It is really the responsibility of the After Market dealers to provide products that match the requirements of the Polaris Slingshot. In my opinion, they missed the mark on this one. Polaris Slingshot should not have to design their equipment to meet the accessories that we want to add.

    The After Market folks should provide a Switchback Light that will meet the current requirements.

    Lets wait for SoCal to finish his testing of the resistor addition to his Switchback Lights to see how they work. Then we can let the folks at the After Market dealers fix this as a lot of owners are having problems.

    I am offering a solution that I found that worked for me when I installed my LEDs to the Turn Signal leads.

    You only possibly need a resistor if you turn signals fail with extra lights on the turn signal leads.

    Bigdog - way cool on the laundry list- some of these were on my mind as well. Polarity was one of them. Showing how tall my learning curve is on this one.


    Hopefully I will get this done tomorrow or the next. I have a doctors appointment on Friday morning I’ll have a 65 mile turnaround. I would imagine that this will be a good test.


    If this does work give me a PM with your address as I would be happy to mail you as many of these as you would like as I will have 98 left over😉

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    There is another resister question...


    Your picture of the ones you bought say 1/2 watt. They come in many different watt ratings....so how do we know the right wattage to use? Does that mean it’s all it can handle? If you go over 1/2 watt then what? Does it quit working? Blow a fuse....catastrophic explosion?

    Don’t forget to slip the wire shrink wrap up the wire before you solder so you can slide it over the resister and shrink it when you’re done...

    Quote from Bigdog

    There is another resister question...


    Your picture of the ones you bought say 1/2 watt. They come in many different watt ratings....so how do we know the right wattage to use? Does that mean it’s all it can handle? If you go over 1/2 watt then what? Does it quit working? Blow a fuse....catastrophic explosion?

    I did notice it was 1/2 watt, but he has them coming today. Mine are 2 watt and they work fine. Due to the flashing of current, on and off, I think it will be fine. This is a test to see if the Switchbacks will even flash and if they do, does it cause the Flasher Module to still fail. We are engineering on the fly. I am not sure what size wattage we should use, but watts are calculated for a circuit by Volts X Amps. 12 volts, not sure of the amps flowing. SoCal should feel if the resistor gets hot as it is flashing, If it is too low in wattage it will get hot. Really, the higher the wattage the better for what we are doing. There are Resistors that have cooling fins just for high wattage needs.

    I really think that people that are having problems with adding Aux lighting to the turn signal system and have problem should tell the place they buy them from and let them engineer the proper resistance before selling them.

    For now, lets just see what SoCal s results when he hooks his resistors up, he will feel them for heat and report his finding. No heat or very low will work.

    Quote from SoCal

    Bigdog - way cool on the laundry list- some of these were on my mind as well. Polarity was one of them. Showing how tall my learning curve is on this one.


    Hopefully I will get this done tomorrow or the next. I have a doctors appointment on Friday morning I’ll have a 65 mile turnaround. I would imagine that this will be a good test.


    If this does work give me a PM with your address as I would be happy to mail you as many of these as you would like as I will have 98 left over😉

    SoCal, I know all have lots of questions and we will answer them after we find the results of your test. What we are doing is engineering the Switchbacks to work properly with our Turn Signal System. The After Market Dealers should be doing this. But we want the lights, they are installed and I think it will work, it worked for mine.

    When hooking up the resistor with test leads and clips, make sure to insulate (tape) all clips from touching anything metal on the slingshot. Secure with zip ties.

    Ok here is an update on the switchbacks. I called TricLED this morning and got connected right away to their tech dept. How cool is that!? A real person that cares and listens!


    As of now everything is on hold for me. The good people at TricLED are sending me a new module TODAY( actually two)! I've had my switchbacks for right about a year and they are covering them over and above what I would have expected. The reason for sending two is that the new updated version has a plug and play and the old version is hardwired as I understand it. They want me to have an option no matter what model I have.


    The tech dept. said that they did hear of this happening once prior about a year ago but could not replicate the issue with the SS's at their shop. Ya know what - sometimes electronics go bad and for no reason or circumstance - they just do.


    My left side works flawlessly - it is just the right side so hopefully this is the cure. No matter what I will post again on this with the results.


    In closing - a big thank you to TricLED for treating me in their business like I like to treat my clients in mine. No matter what the outcome to the lights, I couldn’t be happier with the service.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎