The white beast is being treated to some upgrades. Also details on the one mile event.

  • Last Friday I got the guys here locally at Pressurized Solutions to put the white beast on their dyno. They have a 1800lb single drum Dynacom Dyno. And it is a stingy stingy dyno. They also have some of the best boost tuners in the world. They only work for big time drag car owners. They don't have a sign outside. They don't have a current Facebook page. They don't even have a public phone number. I went to school with these guys and we all know each other. Every time I would ask them about doing something in the past they would be nice and just say that they had to much on their schedule to work me in.

    Well after last week at the Indy event I had some issues that had been bugging me. I noticed that in the upper RPM range I would have a miss. It would appear on my log as knock and that would kill the timing. I still had enough power to run 137mph but it was just not pulling me back in the seat like it should. So when I got home I thought about what it could be and the more I thought about it the more I wanted to call them here locally and see if they could help me. So I gave the owners cell phone a ring and explained that I had a mile event coming up and I was worried about damaging my engine. He surprisingly said " can you have it here at 9 in the morning?" To which I said "YEP"

    When I arrived they aligned me on the left side of the roller and turned all my boost off and started making pulls. They would shut it off before it ever idled down and pull the spark plugs and put them in a magnifying type holder and 2 other people would take turns reading the "colors" . The owner was reading log files each time they made a pull. He told me to run grab some colder spark plugs and I did. When I got back they explained that basically each spark plug was like having a TIG welding torch lit up on top of each piston. And that for me to make it 1 mile I would need to cool the spark as far as I could. They also closed my gaps down so far that I thought it didn't even have a gap. But after looking closer they had about 20 thousandths.

    Once they had the popping out and the curve super smooth they started adding boost. They went into the transmission software and locked the torque converter in 4th gear each time and made pulls from 3000 to 6000 rpm. Each time adding about 4 PSI. Each time they were making subtle changes to the tables. They finally got to 479hp and 498lb of torque at 19.1 PSI. (REMEMBER THIS DYNO IS A BITCH TO GET A HIGH NUMBER ON). I notice them huddling around the computer after that last pull and I had to walk over and ask what was going on.... He said at that level I had 48psi of fuel pressure but I was loosing about 2 PSI of fuel pressure every second that it was at full throttle. He explained that I needed a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a return to tank fuel system. He said he wanted to make a quick pull at full boost just to see how it acted and to find out how much boost I could generate with the 7163 turbo. So they went to 100% on the boost controller and wound it up for a quick pull. They didn't quite make it to 6000 before they guy let out. He said that it was over 100% on my injector load. Basically my fuel injectors were just wide open and feeding fuel as fast as they could. We found out that I have a max of 23 to 25 PSI that I could work with. This also told me that my safe spot till I make some change in my fuel system would be 17 to 18 PSI. And he said that 1/2 mile would be a very long pull even at that level. And that I should not make the 1 mile pull even at that safer level. He just said it wasn't worth the price of a new engine.

    So at this point we had made many pulls on the dyno and we had tuned it so perfect that it had NO knock detectable in the log files. We had found the safe top boost limit of my fuel system. We had found the max boost that the 7163 could shove into the engine. We had fixed the misfire issue and changed the plugs out to a much cooler series and closed the gap up to keep it from blowing the spark out. And the best thing is that we have a game plan made to get all the boost available and make it usable. They gave me a list of goodies to get from Summit Racing to make a return fuel system and control it with a Weldon boost referenced regulator. I will have the ability to pump 485 liters per hours of fuel now. When I'm done with it this weekend (or by next weekend) I will feel safe holding the gas pedal to the floor for a full mile.

    If your reading this and you are wondering if you need to make these changes. It is very unlikely that you would need to go as far as a return based fuel system. As I mentioned above you should be ok up to 16psi. And ok for peak moments up to 18psi. However if you plan on turning a 7163 EFR turbo wide open and lock the wastegate in the closed position AND hold the gas pedal to the floor for 1 full mile...… Then yea.. you will need more fuel to keep from melting the engine down.

    My goodies were ordered today and should be here. by Wednesday. If I can install everything and get it ready to for them to tune this week I will post some pictures and some results. I am doing the hardware install here at my shop. These guys get 200.00 an hour and they will charge from the time it rolls into their shop to the time it rolls out. So everything I can do saves me money for sure. I should just need 2 hours of their tuning time on the dyno to make the last adjustments for the new fuel system.

    As far as its current power,,,,, All I can say is WOW.... After they cleared up the misfiring and it no longer thinks it has a knock it pulls like a beast. And I am really happy with the 479hp and 498lb of torque. I cant imagine what she will do when we give it some more fuel to drink.... And I would love to put the beast on a Dynojet and see if it would smack the 550 to 600hp mark when I am all done. On the current dyno I should get right at the 540 to 550hp mark once we go to 23PSI and it has plenty to drink.

  • When I go back and they tune for the new fuel system and the additional boost I will bring my movie cameras. I just didn't see any reason to video a slingshot winding up to 6000rpm over and over. I knew it would not be doing anything amazing.

    So don't worry, I will show all the setting on the dyno and show all my results. Just hang in there. .. It should be fairly awesome I hope.

    I am happy that I will be able to participate in the 1 mile event now and not have to worry about the bike. Now I just have to worry about me doing everything correct... :-)

  • One last thing..... I was amazed at how some people tune engines each in their own way. I know you can read plugs but these guys took it to a whole new level. They had these special trays that held the plugs in order and they had eye glasses that had adjustable magnification. They had sample plugs they used trying to showing me what they were looking at deep down in the crevice of the plug. But that was useless. :thumbsup:

    He just explained that AFR was important but you could still be killing your engine if you didn't listen to what it was asking for... (and all that weird talk).

  • I was thinking you already had the return system for fuel pressure control for some reason

    I did try it long ago. I couldn't get it to work correctly because I didn't have the correct pump. I gave up on it and put the factory pump back inline. I increased the pumping volume slightly to get me to where I am now. But I was just out of fuel on long pulls.

  • I believe Kyle D has the same concerns that I have. 1 mile is a long way to push these little engines with this much boost. He has mentioned to me before that he already has the fuel system that has a return back to the tank.

    One thing that is good about the Blythville event is that they will have a 1/2 mile trap setup as well as the 1 mile. So if we get out there and it sounds like its killing our engines we can just run for 1/2 mile speeds.

  • "479hp and 498lb of torque"

    Those numbers are amazing but I have to ask how do you handle the start in 1st gear. With a single rear wheel how do you work it to avoid losing grip at the start?

    At what speed can you safely punch it?

    Really curious as to what your best 0 to 60 and to 100 times are.

    Really amazing to see that much power in such a small frame.

  • I have an automatic transmission. We dont even try to hook up the rear till it is past 100 feet. ;--) You are never going to get any impressive number on a 1/8 or 1/4 mile track. I think they refer to this as a catch 22. The more power you have to get to the end of the track fast ...... the less ability you have to start off fast at the beginning of the track.

    I just run 1/2 mile airstrips with it. We just run for top speed. It seems to be the best type of race for slingshots with alot of power. You actually can get it to bite into the track if you just ease into it at the start and then get to about 70mph or so an lay into the gas.

    I'm hoping next week after the new fuel setup we can see hp and tq numbers around the 550 or better.

    You can hear how fast it will get into 3rd gear in this video. And you can hear it shift in some of the other videos.

  • lol that smoke it's like simulating a rocket blast.

    I figure the 0-60 numbers would not be record breaking but personally I could see it as a worthy challenge finessing throttle control to get the best possible 0-60 and 0-100 numbers. I mean clearly you have all the power and torque at your fingertips now it's all about gently managing the throttle to get the best acceleration/traction.

    Then again is it because the sling is now a whole lot heavier thanks to the horsepower hardware that makes it useless to measure 3-wheel 0-60 performance?

    This does confirm why I thought people were itching to get the two wheel conversion kits.