If there was a contest for how many things go wrong with your Slingshot, I would win..............

Quote from studiopeg

Oh for Pete's sake... as an IT manager I tend to look for the most complicated answers. I checked fuses. connections. wiring. cables.

Who woulda thunk it was a new iPhone's charge slot.

I have a lot of PA system electronics and cables.....anytime something acts up my mind thinks the worst....usually 99% of the time it’s something very simple.....but for some reason you over look the simple and go to the expensive complicated stuff.

That said I’m getting ready to install sequential turn signals in my fender/splash guards. What could go wrong?

Quote from studiopeg

Yep. I know better. My first answer to anyone in the Firm is to "reboot." Solves most of the problems. I honestly just didn't think that a new iPhone Xs would have slot problems. It's like thinking the problem with the new laptop is the USB slot. Unheard of. But there it was I find it interesting too, that ANY after-market cables no matter how well done or how high the cost have trouble, but NO Apple cables have trouble. So I caved in and got three Apple cables to assure everything would work. I doubt that's a coincidence. But maybe I am paranoid.

Interesting - I have had nothing but problems with Apple cables and these days I only buy Anker Power line II cables they say they are the most durable cables made and the ones I have seem much more reliable at maintaining a good connection than any other cables we have tried - - I also love that they come in colors - keeps others from grabbing the wrong cable thinking its theirs and I have red to go with my slingshot - - Anker Powerline II

Quote from studiopeg

By the way, I had a Kenwood head unit put in, and the installer said he had to cut the metal decorative trim on the dash/around the radio and dash controls. Figures - once it was cut it looked horrible and curled. So taking the rest of it off ruined EVERYTHING on my dash. It pulled out ALL the switches, ignition, everything. My dash looks like sh$t now and everything (switches, ignition, etc) are very loose).

What can I do? I bought a Tuffskinz carbon fiber dash stick-on to cover the worse of it, but that won't do anything for the switches and toggles. Glue?

You'd all best stay far away from me. I told you, from the beginning I have the WORST luck...

Get mytoy new conversion kit to put his newer mount into the older rides. He will even customize it to how you want. Your kenwood will fit in it I'm sure, mine does and that's what he has in his.

Quote from wokka

Get mytoy new conversion kit to put his newer mount into the older rides. He will even customize it to how you want. Your kenwood will fit in it I'm sure, mine does and that's what he has in his.

I second this mytoy has what you need

Quote from wokka

Get mytoy new conversion kit to put his newer mount into the older rides. He will even customize it to how you want. Your kenwood will fit in it I'm sure, mine does and that's what he has in his.

Agree the mytoy approach is a good idea, but I believe it takes some cutting. You can order the metal trim piece for one of the internet Polaris parts vendors. Checked one and it was $19.03 they stick on with a light/med duty adhesive.

Not sure why the original trim had to be cut for the install, but it does depend on install kit. When I installed mine, before going mytoy approach, the install kit was very tight but went in, If you get a new trim plate and have to cut it, it needs to be cut with a Dremel or similar. If you use snips or...….you will cause it to become less than flat.

Good luck

Not sure if he has the conversion kit on the website, and it can be challenging to find what you want on his site. He has some posts on here about it: Here a some pictures of the marine grade double DIN mounting kit where are different headsets from different manufacturers where used

He's at the Poconos event right now, sure he'll respond to you after it's over.

It is not on the website yet this is in my SS. 2016

My double DIN mounting kit comes with a splash guard, and it works last night and today we had rain and my Kenwood head unit stayed try. Yes the dashboard needs cutting I’ll supply detailed instructions and a template. For the model years 2018 & 2019 no cutting or drilling needed. If you need a custom one just contact me.

studiopeg I am not real sure that all the problems you are having are from cables, seems to me just some real sloppy install people. On the other hand , not sure the lift you posted about would help, but sure would be easier than crawling on the ground. Who knows, maybe Jack it up and get a new one under it. That might solve your problems. Sure hope you can get it all fixed like you want. Good luck.

Just Sayin

Quote from studiopeg

By the way, I had a Kenwood head unit put in, and the installer said he had to cut the metal decorative trim on the dash/around the radio and dash controls. Figures - once it was cut it looked horrible and curled. So taking the rest of it off ruined EVERYTHING on my dash. It pulled out ALL the switches, ignition, everything. My dash looks like sh$t now and everything (switches, ignition, etc) are very loose).

What can I do? I bought a Tuffskinz carbon fiber dash stick-on to cover the worse of it, but that won't do anything for the switches and toggles. Glue?

You'd all best stay far away from me. I told you, from the beginning I have the WORST luck...

Another option: Since you're all cut up any ways is to put a 2018 Mounting Plate from Slingtunes in there. Call him and see if he has any without the switch holes. I have this on my 2019 (temporarily) and it looks pretty decent. May have to relocate/rebuy different switches. Heck, maybe you could switch all from the stock rectangular to his round metal ones.

For the cost, I wouldn't put one of those in, they are ugly IMHO.

studiopeg the cutting will all be done behind the mount, so you are safe to do it

Who you calling cheap and ugly?

Yes I did it is not so difficult this way I could put the head unit in an angel