Friday I took the rear tire off and really gave it a good cleaning, put on, tightened lug nut and went to fill up with gas. It felt like my tire was out of balance or out of round. Noticed I had a brake failure light on. Shut it off and filled with gas and when I restarted it the light was out. Driving it felt fine, no vibration from the rear wheel. Cant figure out why there was a vibration from the rear wheel. Went for a 140 mile ride Sat. and no reoccurrence of the issue. Cant figure out what happened. Just asking for help since I am heading down to Huntsville in a short while and don't want this occurring on the road.
Brake Failure Light
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Possible e-brake did not fully disengage until after you gassed up and released the e-brake again.
Don't forget to re-torque those lug nuts after 75 to 100 miles....
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Well I just had a brake failure light come on while driving the other day. When I restarted the SS it was gone for a while but it keeps coming back.
I called my dealer about having it looked at, only to be told they could not book me in before 15 July!
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[quote='JamesB','https://slingshotinfo.com/index.php?thread/803-brake-failure-light/&postID=352558#post352558']
Well I just had a brake failure light come on while driving the other day. When I restarted the SS it was gone for a while but it keeps coming back.
I called my dealer about having it looked at, only to be told they could not book me in before 15 July!
[/quote]6 weeks? Yikes
Sent from my SM-G935V using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
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That sounds like my experience when the brake pressure sensors failed. Cruise control stopped working, but turning off the engine and then re-statrting the engine cleared the light and allowed the CC to work unit I got the BF light again
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I bled the brakes yesterday, no change.
I also ordered the brake sensors (they should be here in a week). I just have to figure out how to get the master cylinder out. You need some small hands to get in there and work on anything.
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You should be able to remove the mounting bolts and twist the cylinder to the side to get more room to remove the sensors
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A few years back, I posted a quick DIY procedure to change out master cylinder brake pressure sensors.
No Brakes - Page 3 - Slingshot General Discussion - Polaris Slingshot Forum (slingshotinfo.com)
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A few years back, I posted a quick DIY procedure to change out master cylinder brake pressure sensors.
No Brakes - Page 3 - Slingshot General Discussion - Polaris Slingshot Forum (slingshotinfo.com)
Thanks, I did read that but I am not convinced I can get my hands in far enough to do the work. I guess I will have to give it a try.
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You should be able to remove the mounting bolts and twist the cylinder to the side to get more room to remove the sensors
I assume you removed the panel from around the pedals to get this done. I don't want to do this because I have some interior LEDs mounted down there, but I think I can do a little drilling and cutting to get to the bolts through the panel.
Also, my dealer gave me a very large discount on the sensors as they stated that it would generally have been covered under warranty ( I am out by a couple months), and they could not get my vehicle in for 6 weeks.
I hope to get this completed next week and hope it resolves the issue. I am still cautiously optimistic the border will be open and we can get to Deadwood.
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Well my knuckles are bloody but I got it all done. More importantly the brake failure light has not come back on after an hour long ride.
Thanks to those that offered their insight, experience and advice. -
We try to help as much as we can. RIDE SAFE AND WATCH OUT FOR THE OTHER DRIVER
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Well my knuckles are bloody but I got it all done. More importantly the brake failure light has not come back on after an hour long ride.
Thanks to those that offered their insight, experience and advice.I have to do this. My light has been lit for some time now. Thanks for posting up your experience JamesB .
I missed seeing you guys at Sundre last year. I guess I'll miss you again this year. Sigh.....
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Has anyone tried these mechanical switches for the brake failure light? These should screw directly in the master cylinder. Would need two but two of these are cheaper than 1 factory magnetic one, and should be more reliable.
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Has anyone tried these mechanical switches for the brake failure light? These should screw directly in the master cylinder. Would need two but two of these are cheaper than 1 factory magnetic one, and should be more reliable.
Yes lots of the guys have switched out OEM for the mechanical switches... FunCycle little help here.
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The peal switch is the only one that I have changed. I am on the fourth set of switches on the master cylinder on Sling I
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The peal switch is the only one that I have changed. I am on the fourth set of switches on the master cylinder on Sling I
So did you replace those master cylinder switches with mechanical ones or did you just buy the factory magnetic switches?
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Warranty
