Sway Bar

You do not need to change the end links, they are just a way to connect the sway bar. if you do not drive/ride the Slingshot hard there is no need to change the sway bar. If riding hard and to try to keep up with others you will need the sway bar and the cross frame brace, all of it helps plus the 5.0 brake pads and the driver of course.

I put DDM swat bars on both of our Slings. One is a 15 and one 17. They were both the same, used the stock links, and it was a big improvement. Don’t know how an 18 or 19 would be different.

They changed the shape of the sway bar in the newer models and according to Dave from ddm works it is actually less stiff than the one in the earlier years

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Would recommend the DDM sway bar mounts. They have zerk fittings to grease bar. Originally tired to use stock mounts but they popped, and cracked, and made all kinds of noises. Stock links. 2016 SS.

The after market sway bar I put on has walls twice as thick as the factory bar. Mine has 4 adjustment holes....that’s the reason to have adjustable links...if you want to go past the second holes, into the 3rd or 4th holes.

Quote from FunCycle

You do not need to change the end links, they are just a way to connect the sway bar. if you do not drive/ride the Slingshot hard there is no need to change the sway bar. If riding hard and to try to keep up with others you will need the sway bar and the cross frame brace, all of it helps plus the 5.0 brake pads and the driver of course.

Amen. Amen. Amen on all counts. Once you ride with Funcycle a few times, you'll need the 5.0 pads and the sway bar. I got the pads and my next mod will be the sway bar. Please update as you change, I am very curious to see how this goes.

123hotdog I thought that FunCycle doesn’t use brakes. Why would you need brakes following him.

JUST SAYIN

My Sling is a 16 and the DDM adj shocks, plus DDM sway bar snd 5.0 pads make a world of difference. Flatter turns, great ride. Brakes super with 5.0. Great brakes are a necessity. Pushing hard and someone misses a gear you’ll need them or room to get by.

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Quote from edwardaneal

They changed the shape of the sway bar in the newer models and according to Dave from ddm works it is actually less stiff than the one in the earlier years

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here is a picture that Dave@DDMWorks posted in an earlier thread that shows the different shape of the 2017 and newer sway bar and the different stiffness of it as compared to the older style and the DDM sway bar

The Stock slingshots really stay pretty flat in the corners or at least thats what I thought before I made the change to my Twist Dynamics sway bay - - the difference is substantial one of my best mod decisions and it pairs great with my JRI GT's

Quote from Boomer

123hotdog I thought that FunCycle doesn’t use brakes. Why would you need brakes following him.

JUST SAYIN

Well I'm so far behind him it gets quiet and a deer might run out in front of me.

Quote from SlingSC

123hotdog , went up to DDMWORKS today and Angie hooked me up with Hawk 5.0 brake pads, master cylinder support brace, ddm sway bar and the mounts with the grease fittings. Haven’t got them installed yet. It is almost to 🥵 to work in my garage. Humidity is through the roof. Felt like over a 100 degrees today. When I get the sway bar installed, I will let you know the results.

Your telling me. I'm a Landscaper. Heat is awful. Ugh. I went to Fort Jackson to watch a buddy graduate basic. I could have fried an egg on the bleachers. The heat is much much worse over your way than it is here. I have the brace as well. It went on in five minutes. I don't know how handy you are but the back brakes are different than the front on install. I seen a guy on this forum turn the piston on the back with a pair of long needle nose pliers. I did the same thing and it worked perfect.

Before you install the sway bar and mounts you should go find a nice curvy road and drive it hard so you can do some before and after. I am sure you have already driven many roads but you probably were not thinking about it like you would now

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I know this thread was started a while ago but I'd echo the sentiments everyone else is saying. I changed my sway bar to a Twist Dynamics, (+/- 650 lbs/in) and it was a huge difference. I spend a lot of time on the "dragon", (always have), and have pictures from Killboy, in the same corner with the stock swaybar and the Twist Dynamics sway bar. You can see quite a bit less body roll with the aftermarket and the cornering feel was so much better. I've been thinking about adding shocks but at $1200 to $1400 dollars I'm not sure I want them that bad.

For corning also you can use the good set of shocks and also replace the radiator cross bar

Quote from FunCycle

For corning also you can use the good set of shocks and also replace the radiator cross bar

Radiator cross bar?

Quote from FunCycle

For corning also you can use the good set of shocks and also replace the radiator cross bar

FunCycle

Does anyone still sell the cross brace? I have seen posts in the past that talked about it but I don't know which vendor has them

Thanks?

RRR made a replacement steel bar, but no longer makes it. I think that I bought the last one that RRR made and sold. I made one for Sling II by using 1 1/2 inch square tubing and making some spacers. DIY section for directions. Before you ask yes it works about the same way the sway bar does and ties the top rail of the frame together. Before I installed these I was picking the inside tire/wheel off of the ground in the turns.

We are hoping to get another track day or two in this year. We have done Robeling Road in Savannah, Georgia I think 3 times now. This is more fun than riding around the mountains, there are no blue lights to worry about. If you do not want to buy tack tires (not necessary) save your old KENDA's, they are sticky as hell when hot. Tire pressure 24 psi cold on fronts and 24/26 psi hot on the rear