I have stock exhaust with CAI. I seem to be getting a strange rattle around at startup and 3500 rpm in every gear... I looked at the heat shield and the right corner looked close so I bent that away.. did not solve the issue... others have said the springs stretch that hold everything together.. did not seem like it may be wrong... Where to look? Any one else have this issue?
2016.5 SS - Strange rattle/vibration around 3500 rpm - in every gear...:?::?::?:
-
Does it have a skid plate.
-
Does it have a skid plate.
no
-
Check the bolts where the exhaust meets the header and work your way down maybe a broken spring.
-
Welcome Phillbilly to the forum!
Hard to troubleshoot from long distance.
Loose bolts as stated above possible.
Try something simple...
Crank engine with hood closed.
Rattle?
Crank engine with hood open.
Rattle?
-
On some early models the internals of the stock exhaust were breaking loose you might have one of those exhausts.
-
if you have a rubber mallet try hitting the exhaust to see if you can get it to rattle.
-
I had a weird rattle that I couldn't find and just ended up taking a wrench and just try to tighten every nut/bolt visible in the engine bay turned out to be the rear bolt of the header but oddly enough I found a LOT of bolts that were loose or semi loose.
-
I did the same also after washing it once. I was surprised on how many bolts were loose.
-
I did the same also after washing it once. I was surprised on how many bolts were loose.
Stock up on blue
I like this gel stuff. In a lipstick type container.
-
Got the same stuff works awesome.
-
I had that same problem with my 2015. Was an internal baffle in the stock muffler. Polaris replaced it in warranty. A couple of years later it started to happen again. I now have a Welter dial. Problem gone. Has a real nice growl now, love it.
-
My van was doing that and it was the catalytic converter guts shaking around....it broke into pieces...
-
Stock up on blue
I like this gel stuff. In a lipstick type container.
This is so cool, I had no idea this stuff existed. My newly installed wing eventually has some loose nuts after a few days due to normal vibrations. Hopefully this will help.
-
This is so cool, I had no idea this stuff existed. My newly installed wing eventually has some loose nuts after a few days due to normal vibrations. Hopefully this will help.
make sure to use the BLUE never the RED or BLACK
-
make sure to use the BLUE never the RED or BLACK
I agree, other than ALMOST never. There are applications for red or black, but the bolt will need to have a torch put to it or it's permanent. Blue will likely do over 99% of what I ever need to lock down.
-
Our double nuts require green....I never heard of the green stuff.
-
I agree, other than ALMOST never. There are applications for red or black, but the bolt will need to have a torch put to it or it's permanent. Blue will likely do over 99% of what I ever need to lock down.
my rule of thumb for locktite is if you have to ask then only use blue.
Red/black shouldn't be used by anyone not familiar with them and their removal process.
-
Our double nuts require green....I never heard of the green stuff.
I Have the green....I used it on the stabilizer bolts [Head bolts] on my Harley...As per Harley.. They still spun out every 500 miles... Then i tried #268 Stick loctite....
45 thousand miles and they never loosened '''''
-
The green loctite is for use after assembly. It is a wicking fluid threadlocker.
So, you assemble your project, everything is perfectly aligned, fit is great.
Do you tear it down and apply threadlocker...
Or, apply the green, cure, and go?
You can check the green medium/high strength break free torque values to the blue threadlocker and see if it works for you.
