Just FYI, those weights were with the DDM shorty exhaust, my Welter is not on it yet
trakhamr self-install kit
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A bit over 900 miles later, I'm home. Soon as I hit Texas this evening, the bugs heard I was back and swarmed me.
All of the bugs here on my helmet, is what made it past my Nascar windshield... my front end is almost black from bugs
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Edward Neal The Bullet kit is 8" narrower than the front. The Trak Hamr is 2" narrower.
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wokka I can't remember do you have the tallboy or shorty?
I have the tallboy
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Interesting. I didn't ask Troy about gear ratios, but I know that the Dana 36 has options for a lower ratio, down to 2.73 I think, but 3.75 is the highest I've seen offered. I can only imagine what kind of acceleration you could get if you dropped 4.10 or higher into this setup, but it's just not an option that I've found with some quick googling.
I do have plans to write up a full detail review in a few days of the kit and my thoughts on it. Overall, I'm ecstatic with it, and of course, nothing is perfect, so I do have some critiques. More on that later.
3.75 is as high as you can go in the Dana 36, any more than that and you have to jump up to the 44.
The Sling picks up the speedo from the wheel speed sensors and needs to be reflashed for changes in tire size. So gearing has nothing to do with the speedo.
We found the 3.73 to be the best all around gear for the conversion. Big HP mods and you could probably get away with 3.53 and gain some top end speed and maybe even a few MPH but 3.73 was a great all around choice for us.
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Edward Neal The Bullet kit is 8" narrower than the front. The Trak Hamr is 2" narrower.
thank you very much - by chance do you know the length, in pictures I have seen it looks like the Trak Hammer hangs further back, but it could just be the angle of the pictures
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3.75 is as high as you can go in the Dana 36, any more than that and you have to jump up to the 44.
The Sling picks up the speedo from the wheel speed sensors and needs to be reflashed for changes in tire size. So gearing has nothing to do with the speedo.
We found the 3.73 to be the best all around gear for the conversion. Big HP mods and you could probably get away with 3.53 and gain some top end speed and maybe even a few MPH but 3.73 was a great all around choice for us.
thank you
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thank you very much - by chance do you know the length, in pictures I have seen it looks like the Trak Hammer hangs further back, but it could just be the angle of the pictures
That info I do not have.
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So glad you made it home safely Charles.
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Off-Topic comment - Reading all of the available rear end ratios for the different Slingshot rear treatments, I thought back on my 1976 Pontiac Trans AM I bought while assigned to the US Army Field Station Berlin. Thanks to the pollution controls (it was also the first year where catalysts were required) and pressure from the insurance industry to reduce HP, the 400 engine in my TA was listed as 200 HP. Even with the 400 V8, acceleration sucked, so Porsches and BMWs could out-accelerate me from a light. Slower acceleration was also due to the 2.41 rear-end gearing previously associated primarily with boats like my Mom's Buick Electra 225, but the 2.41 rear-end also meant the engine was loafing along at 3000 rpm at 100 mph, making that car a dream to drive on the German Autobahns, which, at the time, had no speed limits.
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The Sling picks up the speedo from the wheel speed sensors and needs to be reflashed for changes in tire size. So gearing has nothing to do with the speedo.
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Really? Wow, that's a shock. I would have presumed it picked it up from the transmission like most cars too.
@Kyle - Good thing you weren't able to change that - I gave you the rear tire info!
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Should make a better tow vehicle if we could figure out where to put a hitch. Might want a higher gear ratio in that case. Other thing I see for the future is some kind of saddlebags like the Corbins to help cover some of that rail look.
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The rail look doesn't bother me, and Troy is thinking about a hitch option.
You'd have to go to a larger rear-end for higher gear options, the Dana 36 can only go up to 3.75. It has 3.73 right now.
With forced induction, you could easily tow anything needed
I would think that most people who would consider doing a quad conversion will also have forced induction. Just seems natural to me. At 165 hp to the wheels one wheel is plenty
As a side note, now that you do have the quad and all that power can you still kick the rear end out around the corners, I get a cheep thrill kicking out the back from time to time going around corners on my daily commute - its one of those things that makes me smile without putting myself at risk of a ticket
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Oh yeah, it's got plenty of power to kick it out
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thank you very much - by chance do you know the length, in pictures I have seen it looks like the Trak Hammer hangs further back, but it could just be the angle of the pictures
Wheel base remains the same as stock.
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As a side note, now that you do have the quad and all that power can you still kick the rear end out around the corners, I get a cheep thrill kicking out the back from time to time going around corners on my daily commute - its one of those things that makes me smile without putting myself at risk of a ticket
Easy enough with a turbo kit. I had fun the other day just turning a corner a little faster than I normally would...punched the throttle out of the turn and the rear kicked out...and I completed the turn with a 4 wheel drift. This really has been the most fun mod I have ever done.
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Easy enough with a turbo kit. I had fun the other day just turning a corner a little faster than I normally would...punched the throttle out of the turn and the rear kicked out...and I completed the turn with a 4 wheel drift. This really has been the most fun mod I have ever done.
Got to love it!!!
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I am sure this has already been answered somewhere in one of these threads, but can someone tell me is the wheelbase front to back the same with this quad setup as the stock length front to back? also is the quad wheelbase width the same as the front?
I have been watching these guys do their thing. It looks like the width will depend a lot on the wheels you put on the back and the offset you use.
For example, if you have stock wheel and use another stock rear wheel then your offset is +45. If you went with aftermarket and the offset was say +20 then overall you would be 30mm wider than before.. does that make since.
OK guys.. now tell me what I got wrong cause everyone knows I am not the mechanic around here..
