Going to drill a hole in my glove box, I don't foresee a problem with that do you?

    Too many light controllers/wires under the hood. I'm going to move one into my glove box, and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the back (there is room) and put a rubber grommet in, then can nicely route the wires in. I don't see any potential problems with this, do you? I'd prefer not to route them through the glove box hinge openings.


    Another question. My Slingshot was in a shop all winter and they promised to keep it on a battery tender but admitted they didn't. It came back to me 90% depleted (I'm 100% sure they had to charge it up to get her started). My battery has been fully drained at least 6 times now. Since it's been home if I keep it off the tender it goes down to 60% in two days.


    It's probably shot, eh?

    Quote from studiopeg

    Too many light controllers/wires under the hood. I'm going to move one into my glove box, and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the back (there is room) and put a rubber grommet in, then can nicely route the wires in. I don't see any potential problems with this, do you? I'd prefer not to route them through the glove box hinge openings.


    I've done this with mine with no problems.


    Quote from studiopeg

    Another question. My Slingshot was in a shop all winter and they promised to keep it on a battery tender but admitted they didn't. It came back to me 90% depleted (I'm 100% sure they had to charge it up to get her started). My battery has been fully drained at least 6 times now. Since it's been home if I keep it off the tender it goes down to 60% in two days.


    It's probably shot, eh?


    I'd get it tested, but sounds like it might be.

    I'd recommend trying to use one of the grommets that has fingers to close around the wiring to reduce chances of any road dirt from the engine compartment getting into the glove-box.

    Example - Flexible Grommet, Desk, 2-3/8 In Dia, Blk You could also stuff some foam weather-stripping in the hole to achieve the same thing.

    Glovebox is removable. Might be better to take a look at possibly cutting a U channel at the hinge back. If you had to drop the box in the future, the wires would not end up being the retainer. And, opening the glove box would not flex stress any wiring...


    Mounting options available in the top of glovebox without loosing the pocket.


    Always double check clearance before drilling or running self-tapping screws.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Quote from studiopeg

    Too many light controllers/wires under the hood. I'm going to move one into my glove box, and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the back (there is room) and put a rubber grommet in, then can nicely route the wires in. I don't see any potential problems with this, do you? I'd prefer not to route them through the glove box hinge openings.


    Another question. My Slingshot was in a shop all winter and they promised to keep it on a battery tender but admitted they didn't. It came back to me 90% depleted (I'm 100% sure they had to charge it up to get her started). My battery has been fully drained at least 6 times now. Since it's been home if I keep it off the tender it goes down to 60% in two days.


    It's probably shot, eh?

    Go to an auto parts store that tests them for free.....sounds like it’s junk....but also test the alternator/generator whatever we have.

    Yeah my guess is the battery is shot but I'll know tomorrow as it's being tested in the morning. Too bad, it was a new yellow top. But defective LED lighting drained it 5 times, and now drained again all winter. I don't want any battery issues at Maggie Valley!

    Quote from airoutlaw

    Glovebox is removable. Might be better to take a look at possibly cutting a U channel at the hinge back. If you had to drop the box in the future, the wires would not end up being the retainer. And, opening the glove box would not flex stress any wiring...


    Mounting options available in the top of glovebox without loosing the pocket.


    Always double check clearance before drilling or running self-tapping screws.

    I forgot what I had done when I posted my earlier comment about using a fingered-grommet to allow a better dust seal for any cabling routed thru the grommet. When I installed my own stereo system and Boost/AFR gauge on my 2015 Base Slingshot, I used the same method to route the wiring for the stereo's USB port as well as the wires for my Innovate Boost/AFR gauge to hook up my data recorder as airoutlaw mentions and routed the wiring into the glove-box at the rear edge of the glove-box side so that the back edge of the glove-box can close against the wires w/o flexing them each time I open the glove-box. If you trim the edge of the glove-box, you can always use some weatherstrip foam to help seal the opening at the back edge of the glove-box. Here's a pic of the USB cable wiring -

    Quote from BKL

    I forgot what I had done when I posted my earlier comment about using a fingered-grommet to allow a better dust seal for any cabling routed thru the grommet. When I installed my own stereo system and Boost/AFR gauge on my 2015 Base Slingshot, I used the same method to route the wiring for the stereo's USB port as well as the wires for my Innovate Boost/AFR gauge to hook up my data recorder as airoutlaw mentions and routed the wiring into the glove-box at the rear edge of the glove-box side so that the back edge of the glove-box can close against the wires w/o flexing them each time I open the glove-box. If you trim the edge of the glove-box, you can always use some weatherstrip foam to help seal the opening at the back edge of the glove-box. Here's a pic of the USB cable wiring -

    That's really helpful, thanks!!

    I think the led lights must be a wide range of quality coming from china and some don't last long and corrode then causing battery drain. I finally removed almost all of my led lights and eliminated this problem. Some guys have a load of lights, but who knows how many times they have to replace some of them.

    Quote from WingShot

    I think the led lights must be a wide range of quality coming from china and some don't last long and corrode then causing battery drain. I finally removed almost all of my led lights and eliminated this problem. Some guys have a load of lights, but who knows how many times they have to replace some of them.

    I'm on my second batch of them, and already removed some. The lights are definitely the most trouble as after-markets add-ons go. MIC crap for the most part. I'm trying one more time on the front end only at Maggie Valley. If they end up being trouble, I'm done.

    WingShot knowing what you know now, would you , like I, recommend to new LED inquirers , always run your own fused dedicated led circuit, direct from battery, which can be picked up in a few places, verses picking up off of Polaris dedicated circuits, used or unused , through the fuse box.? I mean for the guy looking to add more than just a couple halos or small strips.

    Kev
    Yes I would recommend having a separate fuse box installed. It’s always safer especially with canbus system.
    I had a separate box and removed it when I removed all the led junk. The box had one side went bad, can’t remember if it was key on or off side.
    I think my oem box went bad from headlight cutoff switch under the pre recall headlight wiring.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Ouch, no fun. I wired up my own fuse box, but chose not to run a wire back to the battery, instead, tapped into the battery at the alternator. Ran that into a relay which is controlled from the key. I only needed one always hot and that was for the battery, so there is a small terminal before the relay so I can tap in. I went cheaper and didn't get a waterproof fuse box, so mounted it upside down in my glove box. I'm happy with my setup so far.


    I do have a small drain on my battery, I'm guessing it's my radio, since it's the only thing that is always on, and I can usually go about 5 - 6 days ok, but past that and I'll have to put it on a tender/boost it.

    Quote from WingShot

    Kev
    Yes I would recommend having a separate fuse box installed. It’s always safer especially with canbus system.
    I had a separate box and removed it when I removed all the led junk. The box had one side went bad, can’t remember if it was key on or off side.
    I think my oem box went bad from headlight cutoff switch under the pre recall headlight wiring.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Craig the reason I have a 2016 is the 'headlight' recall COOKED my fuse box --- didn't wait for the warrantee --- just traded up to the 2016...