Why would you want this???
Well that is easy. For smokey tire burnouts! And for the really rare use of it as an anti-theft device. Yep. Anti-theft. IF you hid the button that engaged the solenoid you WOULD NOT be able to move the SS. I am pretty sure it would be almost impossible to even tow it..
Why can't I just drop the clutch and hit the brake and roast the tire?
You can.... I just dont see a reason to toast up my back brake rotor to hold the bike still while doing a burnout. Especially when these parts are less than $100.00
Another reason to use a line lock is because you are holding back on the engines power when your holding the brake. With a line lock you get full power burnouts.
Why do you want to do burnouts?
Reallly.... I'm 44 years old with a turbo Slingshot and 1800 watt stereo. That's all I'm saying on that subject. If this isn't something you would do to yours then you don't have to read any further.
For those that are as young minded and childish as me. Here is how I'm doing it.
I'll post this picture first and it shows all the needed parts. Then I'll come back and add individual pictures of all the parts. It is very confusing gathering this mess of parts so that it is safe and so that everyone works well together. This brake system uses metric 10mmx1.0 fittings with DIN flares. The line lock is standard 1/8 NPT fittings. And there had to be a way to get the correct ends everywhere that they are needed. Believe me there is a big difference in flares and threads. I will show you each one and how it's used. I want to make sure it's as safe and as durable as the factory connections.
You will have to either use flexible brake line (stainless) or your going to need to buy a hydraulic line bender. $9.00. I am bending the line that will connect to the brake manifold right now.
I guess now would be a good time to explain where I am hooking all this to.
If you look down at the brake master cylinder you will see there are two outputs. The one closest to the firewall is the port that supplies the front brakes. The other port that is further away from the firewall is the rear brake output.
What I am doing is putting the line lock between the ABS manifold (distribution block) and the master cylinder output. (The one closest to the firewall that I mentioned above).
This means that I should be able to flip off the traction and handling control. Then mash the brakes hard and flip the switch. This will activate the line lock and trap the brake fluid in the front line. Then I can let off the brake pedal and I should be planted firmly on the pavement with the rear brake loose and the front locked tight. (Just as if I were still holding the brake pedal). Just let out on the clutch with a little RPM and it should bring the back tire to life while staying perfectly still.