Welcome Murder After Midnight !!!
SHOCKS!!! my first mod on my first SS was header, then shocks. Should have done it the other way around. First mod in my 17 was shocks.
Welcome Murder After Midnight !!!
SHOCKS!!! my first mod on my first SS was header, then shocks. Should have done it the other way around. First mod in my 17 was shocks.
Anybody used these yet?
OK, at $200 each these shocks are getting a wee bit closer to what I would consider to be reasonably priced, (for comparison, we just replaced the front struts on our Jetta which are much heavier and only paid around $100 each), but, I read in the description for these shocks "The height adjustment ranges to near stock at the highest setting and up to a 2.5" drop at the lowest."
Near stock? How close is "near stock?" We sure wouldn't want the Grasshopper to ride much lower than it already does, we sweat some of the high spots and debris on the road enuff as is?
Bill
Murder After Midnight if you decide to move ahead with shocks , pm me in a conversation and I,ll bet I can round you up a discount code , giving you a little bit of a sale price on your shocks.
Display MoreWhat year and model SlingShot do you have?
We added the vented Madstad windshield to our 2015, but that was before Polaris started venting their stock windshields.
Our MeanSling SportTop makes the ride quieter and less turbulent, and is reasonably priced in comparison. Oh, and the MeanSling hood assist does aid in opening/closing the hood. Aw yet another thing you may want to consider the MeanSling storage bags for additional space.
Depending on your location and riding climate, you may want to invest in better tires.
If costs are not a concern:
A rear fender adds a finished look to the rear.
Personally, for the prices available, we have found the stock shocks to work just fine, but the ones that you mentioned appear to be at least a lil more reasonably priced in comparison...................
If your brakes have been bled and operating correctly, there should be no need for an additional brace.
I believe that many would also agree that there is not much to be gained by going to a cold intake system.
Bill
2015 slingshot SL
2015 slingshot SL
OK, it it has not already been done I would at least recommend installing the muffler and exhaust manifold shields to help control under hood heating issues, as well as making sure that the secondary brake bleeding process has been completed to bring your brakes up to snuff. I would also recommend, if you still have the stock windshield, installing a vented windshield, (like a Madstad ), to provide ventilation and help control passenger compartment turbulence and noise .
Bill
Murder After Midnight here was my response to basically the same question 3 years ago.
thanks man, i will give it some thought
DDM shocks and Sway Bar!
The new coilovers from SlingMods are definitely the least expensive set I've seen. Even a set of QA1's that you build yourself by selecting the springs and shocks you want are going to cost that much or very near to it. I bought Bilsteins thru a Group Buy and still paid around $800 and have been extremely happy with them. When I rode two-wheels, I rode my 2007 SV650 for many miles before I replaced the rear shock with an aftermarket unit and boy was I impressed at the difference. Same thing happened when I upgraded my shocks on the Slingshot. I thought the Slingshot handled fine before the change, but the difference was clearly noticeable. One of my favorite rides has an at-grade RR crossing which is also situated several feet above the regular road surface and before changing the shocks I would routinely go airborne over the tracks, but with the new shocks the Slingshot stays nicely planted.
If I didn't already have the Bilsteins, I'd certainly consider the new SlingMods units since any aftermarket coilovers are going to be a significant improvement.
With $1000 to spend on mods, the Tru-Hart coilovers at $618 would still allow you to get the Injen CAI and the DDMWorks Short Shifter. Before I installed my Hahn Turbo kit, I had the Hahn CAI which, like the newer Injen CAI is designed to seal against the hood, but there are other, less expensive CAI choices available. If you're a little handy, this link to the Dark Side has directions to build your own CAI for a little over $100 - https://www.slingshotforums.co…-intake.5326/#post-110718.
I'd also recommend a Fumoto Oil Drain valve which makes oil changes a real breeze. I currently have the Fumoto F107N valve (http://www.fumotousa.com/parts…tname=F107N&partnumber=34) which also needs an extension to clear the inset on the oil pan, but I'm considering getting the newer F107SXhttp://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?partname=F107SX&partnumber=107 (http://www.fumotousa.com/parts…ame=F107SX&partnumber=107) which can be better adjusted for proper orientation/operation and may not need the extension. The only negative comment I can think of about the Fumoto oil drain valves is the reduced drain hole compared to completely removing the oil pan plug, but since newer oils tend to be freer running than older, thicker oils, this shouldn't be as much of a factor.
Shocks and tires you won't believe the difference.
Tires --- Nitto 555 G2 being up on at the shop at this time... Been running Nitto 555 and have almost 50,000 miles on the fronts and little over 25,000 on the rear... stock sizes all around. Very happy with them... Discount tire does a good job.
Display MoreOK, at $200 each these shocks are getting a wee bit closer to what I would consider to be reasonably priced, (for comparison, we just replaced the front struts on our Jetta which are much heavier and only paid around $100 each), but, I read in the description for these shocks "The height adjustment ranges to near stock at the highest setting and up to a 2.5" drop at the lowest."
Near stock? How close is "near stock?" We sure wouldn't want the Grasshopper to ride much lower than it already does, we sweat some of the high spots and debris on the road enuff as is?
Bill
Going back and taking another look at the description of these shocks it also states " Spring rates and valving designed to provide a more aggressive than factory ride for spirited driving", may I assume this to mean that these shocks would probably ride a bit stiffer than the original shocks?
Bill
I'll go back to stock when I'm selling the Sling.
What's all that about?
What's all that about?
No Jared, I'm not selling but I have kept a lot of the stock parts for the day when I do. I'll sell off the expensive stuff and at least get a little back and sell the Sling as stock. It would be nice to see something back from $1000 seats, $1000 shocks. etc. I bought at 0% money and I like it in my garage. Besides, I've got $650 worth of parts sitting in the House of Paint to install when the weather breaks. DDM black Friday buys!
Just my .02$ What kind of driving do you do? What kind of roads do you drive on? Just get seat time for sure then choose your style of ride.
Just my .02$ What kind of driving do you do? What kind of roads do you drive on? Just get seat time for sure then choose your style of ride.
street and highway mix
Curios, has anybody gotten 200rwhp NA Yet?
Curios, has anybody gotten 200rwhp NA Yet?
Some have claimed it but I don’t believe we have seen any dyno sheets to prove it.
Maybe at the engine. If it's 173hp stock, that wouldn't be much of a stretch. At the wheel would be a little tougher.
If I recall correctly, somebody dynoed a stock SS at 153whp. A Mefi Burn ecu tune is around 20hp, an exhaust, header and CAI get about another 20hp, but those are engine numbers not wheel hp. I would guess 180-185whp will be the best you can get at the wheel, in optimum conditions.
I can get you guys some accurate numbers and dyno sheets in the next 4-6 weeks as long as mother nature cooperates. I have a guy coming up to get our CAI, exhaust package, and tune installed on his NA SS. We are just waiting for it to warm up a little here and for some of the snow to disappear. But we will do a base line pull, add parts, do another pull, add tune, and do the final pulls and I can post all of that info here on the forums for you.
Just to give you some semi comparable numbers, obviously the SS is different, but typically, on a 2.4l Cobalt with a manual trans, all the bolt ons, cams, and valve springs, tuned on 93 octane, we typically see about 173whp on our Mustang dyno.