Can anyone help me understand a relay and how to install?

  • Hi gang,


    In another thread here I inquired about my halos with turn signal integration causing my turn signals to freeze when the ignition is on (they work fine on accessory). Was pointed to a similar thread over on the dark side and found someone had a very similar problem (although not exactly the same), and it was fixed per below.


    Can anyone help me understand what a relay is and how I would install it? The only way for me to learn is to ask! If this is going to end up something beyond my capability I will just disconnect the turn signal integration wires, but since I did all the work installing them I'd like to first see if I can get them to work correctly.


    Thanks! Peg


    "Happy to inform that the mechanical relay did the trick. Working like a charm. Want to thank all members that recommended possible fixes and solutions. I connected the mechanical relay in series with the wires leading to one side of the mod and the stock digital relay is still master relay."

    20160218_170403.jpg


  • I have read your post a few times and I am still confused. :D


    a relay just takes the load off of the switch or circuit and allows you to run a heavier power source to whatever device your controlling.


    LED lights dont pull enough power for some older relays and flasher modules to control them. So you have to go to a newer electronic relay or flasher.


    Im not sure if I confused you more or less. If you need more info I will need more info on what devices you are controlling and what they are supposed to do.

  • The thread I got the above from was a "similar" problem but not exactly the same. Due to a mod, this guy's turn signals were freezing when the ignition was on, same as mine. But he had a different mod.


    What I have is programmable RGB halos around all headlamps. The halos came with a turn signal integration kit. I tapped the kit's right and left turn signal wires into the existing blue turn signals wires on each side. The halos now flash with the turn signals. It's a nice effect.


    Worked for two weeks, then my turn signals started freezing on when I tried to use them. On accessory only, they work fine. But they freeze when the ignition is on, making them useless.


    I disconnected the right-side turn signal integration wire as a test and both turn signals started working correctly again. Re-connected and they are back to freezing.


    Numerous people suggest a relay to stop the freezing. So the above module may or may not be what I need - I just don't know as I don't have any knowledge of relays.


    Any thoughts?

  • Post a few pictures of your connections (close up)... kind of hard to diagnose from what you've described.


    *not a relay issue

    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you...
    Signature.png

  • The flasher in the photo wouldn't work in the SS without some serious rewiring. It's designed to go in front of the switch.


    For an idea of how a relay works:

    When power is applied to the input side of the relay it will close the circuit on the other side. This allows you to use a low amp switch to activate a high amp circuit.



  • Here are some pics if it helps. The turn signal integration module, the halos that blink with the turn signals (when it works which is only with accessory on), and the TEMPORARY SOLDERED CONNECTION into the blue turn signal wire. FYI this is just a temporary experiment. I had a T-tap here and took it out to solder to see if it made a difference (it did not). It is not a good soldering job and is without heat shrink but it was just an experiment so I wanted to be able to un-do it. The other turn signal still has the T-tap and is wrapped with heat tape. But if I un-do this soldering connection, the turns signals do not freeze so for now let's just assume the other side's T-tap is fine.


    Yes I have called the manufacturer a couple of times (left voice mail) and told them the problem but they don't call me back.



  • My wiring diagrams suck...


    So, let's break it down.


    1) I assume with ignition switch off...

    hazard lights and integrated halo mod flash like they should.


    2) You turn ignition switch to on...

    Hazard lights, turn signals and integrated halo mod all function.


    3) You start the Slingshot...

    Hazard lights and/or turn signals with integrated halo mod when activated lock up in the bright mode, no flash.


    4) Your turn signals with integrated halo mod worked for two weeks but no longer with the Slingshot running. Now only with switch on position.


    And here's the link to the original post...

    Turn signals are freezing due to mod, any suggestions?


    I would be curious as to the Slingshot working correctly with mod disconnected.


    And what is different between ignition switch on or Slingshot running?


    Before the brain storming starts...


    My halos have a controller for many modes of operation and my halos are wired hot. Controller is the only way to turn on and off.


    Is your mod wired to ignition on?

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

  • Here are some pics if it helps. The turn signal integration module, the halos that blink with the turn signals (when it works which is only with accessory on), and the TEMPORARY SOLDERED CONNECTION into the blue turn signal wire. FYI this is just a temporary experiment. I had a T-tap here and took it out to solder to see if it made a difference (it did not). It is not a good soldering job and is without heat shrink but it was just an experiment so I wanted to be able to un-do it. The other turn signal still has the T-tap and is wrapped with heat tape. But if I un-do this soldering connection, the turns signals do not freeze so for now let's just assume the other side's T-tap is fine.


    Yes I have called the manufacturer a couple of times (left voice mail) and told them the problem but they don't call me back.



    If you don’t want/need a switched halo circuit, run your entire electrical loop through your turn signal cable (i.e. cut your cable like this and solder each wire to power your halo flash controller). There is plenty of current to operate the lights and will avoid the polarity problem you are most likely having.



    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you...
    Signature.png


  • 1. With everything off (no ignition and no Accessory on (i.e., the key in the forward position)) the halos will work (they are controlled by my Neutrino box), but the Sling's turn signals don't ever work when everything is off, as is standard.


    2. Yes, when key is turned forward (I always call that "Accessory on") the turn signals work with or without the halos on* (SEE NOTE)


    3. Yes, once the engine is running the turn signals, when activated, stay lit up and do not flash. Same with the hazards.


    4. Correct. So odd that they worked for two weeks and now freeze. All of the wires are color-coded - everything that went to the right turn signal was coated in blue and red stripes, everything to the left coated in another color. I have them hooked up correctly.


    *NOTE: I just went out and did some quick tests before heading to work. Again, with the key in the forward position but engine NOT on, everything worked correctly. Fired her up, freeze.


    Then, I snipped the soldered right turn signal integration wire to disconnect. Previously, before I soldered this back on, the turn signals would work (with the left turn signal integration wire tapped into the left turn signal's blue wire). Now this morning, even with the right one disconnected and the left one still connected, the left turn signal freezes with or without the ignition on. That's new. The disconnected right turn signal, however, worked.


    So something about this damn kit is causing this and I don't know what I need to fix it. Really I should just forget about the halos blinking with the turn signals. It's just vanity. But I paid for the kit and I'm ticked it is freezing my turn signals. LOL about even trying to get my money back.

  • you say the halos are on the neutrino ....is the power to them turned on high.....

    I think the neutrino internally might be causing the problem....maybe to protect itself....

  • you say the halos are on the neutrino ....is the power to them turned on high.....

    I think the neutrino internally might be causing the problem....maybe to protect itself....

    Good thought, but the Neutrino halo circuit makes no difference on or off. I always leave the circuit off and then turn it on manually when I want the halos on. The circuit is programmed correctly with the correct amps and is grounded properly and labeled with the item, amps, and ground. I'm pretty anal about these things.

  • Question (I'm just trying to think of anything at all that could contribute to this problem...): what if the turn signal integration module has a bad ground? There were limited screws in that area and almost all of them were painted. I can't remember what I finally grounded it to offhand as I'm at work now, but if it's a bad grounding could that contribute?

  • Would not be the first time a bad ground has caused problems. Not only would I check the mod ground...

    Extend the checks to your battery. Tight connectors, no corrosion, and battery ground to frame connection.

    Time consuming but knocks out one more possibility.

    Because it worked for two weeks, something deteriorated or has failed. Hopefully not the latter...

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

  • Would not be the first time a bad ground has caused problems. Not only would I check the mod ground...

    Extend the checks to your battery. Tight connectors, no corrosion, and battery ground to frame connection.

    Time consuming but knocks out one more possibility.

    Because it worked for two weeks, something deteriorated or has failed. Hopefully not the latter...

    Right. True enough, if it worked for a while then it was installed correctly. My Sling is scheduled to be towed to a shop on Friday for some air ride work, so I will check the ground tonight or this week. Will get my Fluke meter out. Pretty sure all battery connections are very tight and solid but will double check that. It would be so nice if it was just the ground. I'm an IT Manager and tend to look for complicated answers when *sometimes* a simple one is the correct one.

  • Hmmmm. Just checked. I've done so much work to the Sling it's hard to remember exactly what I did and when, but tonight saw and remembered that I was not happy with the initial ground on a semi-painted screw. So I extended the ground wire to go all the way to the Neutrino. I cannot recall if the turn signals worked with the initial ground or if I moved it because it was freezing. Dang.


    Bad solder? I don't think so as I'm pretty good about that.


    Also... the Neutrino works great EXCEPT for the halos. For some oddball reason, just the halos' circuit has to be turned on, then off, then on again to work. It's always done that and I don't know why. I checked again, and the amperage for that slot is plenty.


    I went back and checked my documentation and the ground into the Neutrino has not exceeded that ground slot's amperage.


    I think Bigdog is on to something. This might indeed be related to the Neutrino.


    I wish I knew more about switches. If I did, I think I would re-wire the halos to be switched with one of my empty switch slots in the stock dash.


    Dad taught me a lot about wrenching, but this advanced modern stuff was beyond him and I'm having a tough time with it too, learning as I go.


    Friday the Sling is off to the shop for the air ride repair, but I don't think these guys are wrenchers. They do custom wheels and air rides. But I can always ask them to check it out. We'll see.


    Frankly I'd like to get the halos off the Neutrino and onto a manual switch.


    Thanks everyone for all the input. Hope to solve this by Spring....

  • My halos are on my neutrino.....I have no problem with them....which circuit do you have them on...maybe switch them to a different one and see what happens...


    I had mine on a circuit that actually delayed them on and off....

  • My halos are on my neutrino.....I have no problem with them....which circuit do you have them on...maybe switch them to a different one and see what happens...


    I had mine on a circuit that actually delayed them on and off....

    The halos rate at 10 amps. I have them on slot 5 which rates up to 12 amps. Nothing else is on slot 5 and I programmed it for 10 amps. I've also varied the programming to turn the halos on automatically, turn them off after 5 minutes, turn them on only manually.... no difference.


    The halos's ground is on ground slot 2, which rates for 20 amps. I have both my cockpit lights and the halos on this ground. The halos are 10 and the cockpit lights are 10.


    All other slots are full. Yes I could try swapping them into another slot (slot 1 is rated for 12 amps and my cockpit lights at 10 amps are on that slot).


    I've had intermittent trouble with the Neutrino from the start which I don't know but don't think is related. But I have to say their customer service is fantastic. Very responsive and they have spent time troubleshooting it with me. The trouble I've had is that the Neutrino does not always connect via Bluetooth. They sent me another Bluetooth dongle but it didn't help. We finally came to the conclusion I have too many things under the hood with Bluetooth, and at their recommendation I ran their Bluetooth wire/dongle all the way into the cockpit for easy access. About every 1 out of 3 times I have to remove the dongle and reinsert for the Neutrino to connect to my phone.


    My husband who does not live with me right now (he lives with his elderly mom taking care of her at her house) was right. He warned me against all these mods. I knew what I was getting into, having tons of mods on my last Harley which caused untold headaches. And I did it anyway. I keep hoping I can get it all working and be done with it. LOL LOL LOL!!! ||