It's winter time and time for Slingshot upgrades. I just ordered the Hawk 5.0 pads (keeping stock rotors). Also ordered the master cylinder bracket. Both I got from Dave @ DDM Works. Thanks Dave. Angie is so knowledgeable and professional. I would like to reach out to my Slingshot brothers and sisters who have "been there done that". Any insight or pointers would be very helpful. Not my first brake job by any means but the best Slingshot minds aren't at Polaris, they are on this forumOnce again, thanks in advance for reading my post and responding.
Hawk 5.0 Pads and master cylinder bracket
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I'm sure someone else will chime in on this at some point. I just wanted to mention what I recall hearing about the brakes on the SS. I think it relates to the front only, but memory fails me on the particulars. But I'm nearly certain that you can't just squeeze the piston back into the caliper without damaging something in the system. To push the piston back into the caliper I believe you need to crack the bleeder valve so's not to do damage.
MACAWS might know, thinking he posted it somewhere...... How about it Mitch? Can you shed light on this? Maybe Slingrazor might know..... -
It's winter time and time for Slingshot upgrades. I just ordered the Hawk 5.0 pads (keeping stock rotors). Also ordered the master cylinder bracket. Both I got from Dave @ DDM Works. Thanks Dave. Angie is so knowledgeable and professional. I would like to reach out to my Slingshot brothers and sisters who have "been there done that". Any insight or pointers would be very helpful. Not my first brake job by any means but the best Slingshot minds aren't at Polaris, they are on this forumOnce again, thanks in advance for reading my post and responding.
Very good choices. I have run the stock rotors with the 5.0 pads since 2015 and have always had plenty of brakes with not one problem. I even acquired another set of stock rotors because some people seemed to have so much trouble with stock ones. It turns out it was more of a driver problem than a brake rotor problem. The 5.0's are dirty but the difference is night and day over the stock pads.
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I'm sure someone else will chime in on this at some point. I just wanted to mention what I recall hearing about the brakes on the SS. I think it relates to the front only, but memory fails me on the particulars. But I'm nearly certain that you can't just squeeze the piston back into the caliper without damaging something in the system. To push the piston back into the caliper I believe you need to crack the bleeder valve so's not to do damage.
MACAWS might know, thinking he posted it somewhere...... How about it Mitch? Can you shed light on this? Maybe Slingrazor might know.....On the front calipers you can just squeeze the piston back into the caliper, just watch the reservoir, because it can push fluid out if it is already full. The rear caliper with the parking brake can not just be squeezed in because of the parking brake mechanism. In order to get that piston to go back in you have to turn the piston and push at the same time.
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I'm sure someone else will chime in on this at some point. I just wanted to mention what I recall hearing about the brakes on the SS. I think it relates to the front only, but memory fails me on the particulars. But I'm nearly certain that you can't just squeeze the piston back into the caliper without damaging something in the system. To push the piston back into the caliper I believe you need to crack the bleeder valve so's not to do damage.
MACAWS might know, thinking he posted it somewhere...... How about it Mitch? Can you shed light on this? Maybe Slingrazor might know.....Goats_Hogs I believe it is the rear brake not front , this is due to parking brake.
Hope this helps
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Thanks for that info Dave! I remembered there was something different about doing it! Good info, with over 36K on mine, I plan to update my pad before next season! You'll be hearing from me!
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I'm sure someone else will chime in on this at some point. I just wanted to mention what I recall hearing about the brakes on the SS. I think it relates to the front only, but memory fails me on the particulars. But I'm nearly certain that you can't just squeeze the piston back into the caliper without damaging something in the system. To push the piston back into the caliper I believe you need to crack the bleeder valve so's not to do damage.
MACAWS might know, thinking he posted it somewhere...... How about it Mitch? Can you shed light on this? Maybe Slingrazor might know.....Goats_Hogs I believe it is the rear brake not front , this is due to parking brake.
Hope this helps . To slow again . Never mind
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123hotdog when it comes to installing the master cylinder brace make sure to measure twice or thrice so you only have to cut(drill) once.
DDM brace you do not have to drill any holes
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DDM brace you do not have to drill any holes
ahhh I stand corrected, the only one I have installed is the Alpha one and you had to be careful not to screw up on that one.
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Thank you folks for the input. Greatly appreciated. Pads are on the way.
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Hats off to DDM works once again. The master cylinder bracket could not have been any easier to put on. It went on like it was a factory part. Didn't take 15 minutes and I was done. The thing fit like a glove. No drilling required.
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Update: Fronts were no problem at all. The rear wasn't bad. I found on another post where someone used a set of long needle nose pliers to push and turn wheel cylinder for the rear brakes to adjust it back out. Worked perfect. Can't drive Slingshot. It's been pouring here for days. Will update soon.
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Update: Hawk Pads are night and day difference over stock. Well well worth the money. Thanks Dave at DDM