Coolant Tank Failure

    Noticed that I had to top off the tank yesterday. Riding today the wife had coolant drop on her foot. When we got home I popped the hood and noticed the tank was leaking at the pressure side hose connection. Too hot to check anything, I will check the tank connection in the morning when the system has cooled off to see what the problem is.

    Remove the return line the one closest to fire wall on cap side and inspect plastic fitting for cracks. They have also has some spit and the seam that runs thru middle of tank.

    Thanks for the info @FunCycle.
    Mine broke the nipple clean off at SSITS. I repaired it while there and it's still going strong. Personally, I think some vendors silicone hoses are too stiff and when being forced to make that curve toward the valve cover it puts unnecessary strain on the small nipple and causes it to break. I went back to the stock heater hoses on the bottle. I drilled the tank 1/4" npt and threaded a 90° brass fitting into it with the hose barb facing forward to eliminate the bend in the hose. I also used some JB Weld plastic epoxy when installing the fitting into the bottle to help secure it.


    If anyone else has broken the nipple was using silicone hoses, please post up.


    Thanks,
    Stephen

    I broke mine Tuesday with hoses from slingshot only they have been on for 3000 miles. I leaned on the hoses and broke both nipples. just drilled and tapped for 1/8" pipe and used brass hose barbs and is better and stronger than stock. so that can be fixed very easily but split tank probably not

    The DDM hose kit does not seem to put extra pressure on the barbs. When I pulled the tank yesterday the pressure side had formed into the bend but I had also on install, made sure that there was no extra pressure on the hose barbs because of the failures that had already happened. I was hopeing that the tank would come in today.

    Coolant tank is installed. The SlingShot is running outside as we speak checking for leaks. Now for the 2 problems with the mounting of the tank. #1 The bracket behind the motor ( center ) needs to be ground down where it will not be pushing in on the tank with the bolt installed. Took the Dremel to it and took about 1/8 inch off of it. No problem. # 2 Check the hole centers on the tank and also the brackets. On mine the brackets were close to 1/8 inch further apart so that I had to put a good bit of pressure on the outside bracket to get the outside bolt started. I did not want to pull the tank again too correct. So if you think about it ahead of time you might be able to correct this by bending a bracket. The problem is with the tank installed the bolts are putting pressure on the tank trying to pull it apart. Blairsville! Here we come. Took a ride into town just checking it out and a guy behind me a traffic light pulled out in front of the motorcycle that was coming. I did not see it happen but knew what it was soon as I heard the hit. Looked like he may have broke his leg, he was lucky. Since I did no see it I told the cop what had happened and introduced him to 2 of the witnesses who were sitting at the light looking straight at it happen.

    My upper connection just broke today exactly as some of you have described. I'm exploring the warranty option but I'm really don't want to go without the Sling for however long it takes them to replace it. Thinking about repair options.

    Quote from Toobad4u

    I went back to the stock heater hoses on the bottle. I drilled the tank 1/4" npt and threaded a 90° brass fitting into it with the hose barb facing forward to eliminate the bend in the hose. I also used some JB Weld plastic epoxy when installing the fitting into the bottle to help secure it.

    Quote from jaycanter

    just drilled and tapped for 1/8" pipe and used brass hose barbs and is better and stronger than stock.

    @Toobad4u, @jaycanter, I don't suppose you have any pictures of the final product to share?