Hi All, I am installing an Autometer, oil pressure gauge, so it would help if I knew where to put the sensor on the motor? LoL. I've searched this site, and I am at a loss.
Oil Pressure Gauge
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@Lui, I remember seeing it in here early this year but I can’t seem find it either. Maybe @Dave@DDMWorks or @Kyle D have suggestions.
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Thanks Joey but it doesn’t tell where to connect on the engine, radiator (for water temp), or other.
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Thanks buddy. It’s going to be cold and damp for a week so I thought I would use this time to plan out just how I want to hook up some gauges. Will do the install in winter but planning out gushed, hookups, and gauge placement now. -
Ditto. I am working new gauges this winter and front facing oil cooler as well. That turbo scares me and I do not trust idiot gauges.
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Your best bet would be to T into this sending unit near the bottom of the block.
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Here is what I found easiest...
Move the stock oil pressure (idiot light) sensor to the back of the head and put your new oil pressure sending unit in that location. This will satisfy your idiot light and give you the correct oil pressure reading on your new gauge without having the restriction of the head.
The only thing required in doing it this way, is pulling out some of the wiring in the harness so it can be lengthened to reach the back of the head. You are just pulling it out. There isn't any cutting or splicing required.
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Here are my pics from when I was running my built motor. This was setup to run the turbo oil feed line from the stock oil pressure sensor location and move it to the head. Worked really good and was easy to do.
I personally couldn't find an easy way to T the stock location to run both. Maybe someone else like @Kyle D can link you to a T that works. -
Your best bet would be to T into this sending unit near the bottom of the block.
Hi Kyle, I looked at the pressure switch, and noticed that without the removal of the engine, it would be a bit..h to get at. The other item to consider for me, is that my oil pressure gauge has a tube that will run to it. Having said that, I think that running the line from the back of the head might be better? What are your thoughts on this?
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Hi Kyle, I looked at the pressure switch, and noticed that without the removal of the engine, it would be a bit..h to get at. The other item to consider for me, is that my oil pressure gauge has a tube that will run to it. Having said that, I think that running the line from the back of the head might be better? What are your thoughts on this?
I just went out and looked at mine. If you remove the intake manifold that should open up a fairly decent sized hole to work in. Can you email me a pic of the gauge and the fitting on the end of the line that would need to be T'd in so I can see exactly what we are working with? My response time will be faster if I happen to not be at my desk. I'm actually leaving in about 45min and going to Dominican Republic until Monday November 19th but I will still have email access. You can send it to Kyle@zzperformance.com I do like the solution that @TravAZ came up with honestly. It's a pretty simple easy and effective solution. You could go off the head and be fine. I think if you use the oil galleys where the lash adjusters are, it is slightly restricted but not a ton. We have fed turbos and gauges off there before. I think if you are looking for an easy solution and just want to reference if you have a large pressure drop you could go off the head and be totally fine. Your other option would be to do what @TravAZ did which I also think is a good solution. With either option, it is not likely that the fitting the gauge comes with is going to just thread in. You're going to have to do some adapting. I think working space may be more cramped coming off the back of the head but I do not know how far apart your SS is at this point.
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As mentioned above, you have plenty of room to access what you need with the intake manifold off.
Your oil pressure sending unit is likely 1/8 NPT, so you would use the below part to convert the odd metric block threads to the sending unit.
- AutoMeter Metric Adapters 2278
You can T the 1/8 NPT size easily, but I haven't found a way to actually T the 12mm x 1.75 fitting at the block. I doubt something exists in this odd size for a T.
You could also use the front oil galley plug on the exhaust side and run an oil feed line with adapter to your sending unit. This would make the sending unit remote and would give you more room. Either way, you are likely going to need the part 2278, unless your oil pressure sending unit is 12mm X 1.75 threads.
If you going to go through all this work and want correct oil pressure readings, you should follow what I advised above. If you are only worrying about loosing oil pressure dramatically, because something went wrong, just skip everything and depend on the dash light that uses the stock sensor.
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Correct. The block doesn't use any NPT threads. The plugs and stock sensor are 12mm × 1.75 threads. You will need to use the autometer adapter. This is common on a lot of applications where you need to convert to NPT.
If I remember correctly, the oil pressure numbers from the head location are 10-15 psi lower because of the restriction.
Intake manifolds come off pretty easy. It's usually a 15-30 minute job. -
It's pretty straight forward. Just make sure you cut all the zip ties holding the wiring to it and don't forget the bolt holding the dipstick to the manifold.
Once everything is off, tip the top towards you and gently pull it out. If it is being a pain, you likely forgot to cut a zip tie that secures wiring.
Overall, it's an easy job.
