I liked the post not because of the issues that you are having but because you have determined what was causing the problems and know how to correct it. As for the paint? That might give you a good excuse to put one of those custom graphics on the hood. I'd love to have one myself but there's just two things stopping me. Talent and Money, you have to have one or the other and I have neither!
Hahn Turbo – Installation, support and general comments
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Ouch. Not trying to minimize your pain, but any chance of finding someone locally that has air brush skills that can "cover up" that area with some fancy graphics or skulls or something? It would be a lot faster than having the entire s/s repainted and a better job than trying to color match a 2 year old paint job. Hope you're able to remedy this easily
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I liked the post not because of the issues that you are having but because you have determined what was causing the problems and know how to correct it. As for the paint? That might give you a good excuse to put one of those custom graphics on the hood. I'd love to have one myself but there's just two things stopping me. Talent and Money, you have to have one or the other and I have neither!
Thanks. I still need to fix one of the mounting screws and locknut as I think something either got cross-threaded or the angle I installed it thru the bracket and airbox allowed it to scrape against the side of the hole. I think repositioning it will provide the hood clearance I need, but I may need to readjust the hood hinge mounting points to the frame since I already shifted things before I realized the problem with the airbox positioning.
I've never painted an entire car. I had a 1976 Ford Granada 4-door with the 351 V8 as well as 4-wheel disc brakes that were supposedly not common on the Granada. After the vinyl roof started self-destructing, I pulled it all off and did most of the prep work to get it repainted. That was a lot of work! Despite that experience, I've always been tempted to try painting an entire car, so who knows...
A vinyl graphic might meet my needs, if I can find something I really like.
Ouch. Not trying to minimize your pain, but any chance of finding someone locally that has air brush skills that can "cover up" that area with some fancy graphics or skulls or something? It would be a lot faster than having the entire s/s repainted and a better job than trying to color match a 2 year old paint job. Hope you're able to remedy this easily
I definitely lack airbrush/fine detail painting skills, so I'd need to find someone expert enough to do something like that.
As far as my current solid yellow paint job, the kid that did it used PPG auto paint, but left some spots that I felt weren't really done that well, but I guess it was worth close to the $800 he charged. I rate it a 3-5 paint job since it looks good as long as you're at least 3-5 ft away from the Slingshot!
If I were to try repainting my Slingshot, I'd need to redo everything as I have always liked Eastwood's Electric Yellow (Eastwood Electric Yellow 3:1 Single Stage Paint). -
Thanks. I still need to fix one of the mounting screws and locknut as I think something either got cross-threaded or the angle I installed it thru the bracket and airbox allowed it to scrape against the side of the hole. I think repositioning it will provide the hood clearance I need, but I may need to readjust the hood hinge mounting points to the frame since I already shifted things before I realized the problem with the airbox positioning.I've never painted an entire car. I had a 1976 Ford Granada 4-door with the 351 V8 as well as 4-wheel disc brakes that were supposedly not common on the Granada. After the vinyl roof started self-destructing, I pulled it all off and did most of the prep work to get it repainted. That was a lot of work! Despite that experience, I've always been tempted to try painting an entire car, so who knows...
A vinyl graphic might meet my needs, if I can find something I really like.I definitely lack airbrush/fine detail painting skills, so I'd need to find someone expert enough to do something like that.As far as my current solid yellow paint job, the kid that did it used PPG auto paint, but left some spots that I felt weren't really done that well, but I guess it was worth close to the $800 he charged. I rate it a 3-5 paint job since it looks good as long as you're at least 3-5 ft away from the Slingshot!
If I were to try repainting my Slingshot, I'd need to redo everything as I have always liked Eastwood's Electric Yellow (Eastwood Electric Yellow 3:1 Single Stage Paint).When I bought my 35 Ford with the hand rubbed black lacqur paint. There was a spot on the rear fender where a rock had hit spider webbing the thick paint. So I got a pen stripper to just paint a spider web using the cracks everybody got a big kick out of it, I regret that I never got a picture of it. Had the whole fender painted later because of some other damage.
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The ability to tweak your tune yourself. I understand that a lot of us don't need or want to touch the tune but there is a percentage of us out here that are comfortable making some tuning adjustments and don't like being at the mercy of 1 single guy in the whole world that can and will tune our bikes. I would gladly give the price of the Haltech to have the ability to tune my own ecm. Where are we if Bob gets hit by a train tomorrow. I'd just like to know that I have the ability to take my bike to the dyno on any given day and make adjustments. If they don't prove to be what I want then all I'd have to do is reflash it with the old program but as the situation stands if I want to make an adjustment I have to contact Bob, either directly or indirectly and ask if he is will to do the flash. Then remove the ecm and mail it to him and a few days or a week later get it back and install it and test it. If it ends up not being what I want then I can start the process all over again. It's not about the money spent it's about being able to do things for yourself in your own time frame without being at the mercy of someone else.
Just to add to the above I would not want to have to start from scratch with an oem ecm and develop a tune. That would take way too much time and be way to dangerous. I have done that on dyno with the Kawasaki ecm with the guidance of a professional tuner. To attempt to do it any other way would have been disastrous. Tweaking a tune on the other hand is something a lot of us can/could do if we had the capability. Personally I'd want to do some data logging too!Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains!
I liked this the first day, but I do have to say that I can't agree more with @Ghost. I met Bob down at Maggie Valley and got a tour of what he is doing and some impressive shit! BUT... I don't like the fact that one person does this and all the rig-in-merole I have to go threw. Part of the reason I got Hahn's system truthfully was the fact that I want to learn about this stuff. Hahn's system allowed me that capability a bit more so. But defining didn't want something where I'm tied to the hip to someone. Now if Bob wanted to provide a class on how to do a tune and do it correctly and how to tweak things... I'M THERE!
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The software/hardware that I use to tune the Kaw ecu is set up so that it will only work with 2 or 3 ecu's. I can only tune my ecu's and no one else's. Of course it does auto tune ect. If Bob offered this at $500 to 1k I would buy it. You would still be tied to him and his software but you would be able tweak your tune at will.
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The ability to tweak your tune yourself. I understand that a lot of us don't need or want to touch the tune but there is a percentage of us out here that are comfortable making some tuning adjustments and don't like being at the mercy of 1 single guy in the whole world that can and will tune our bikes. I would gladly give the price of the Haltech to have the ability to tune my own ecm. Where are we if Bob gets hit by a train tomorrow. I'd just like to know that I have the ability to take my bike to the dyno on any given day and make adjustments. If they don't prove to be what I want then all I'd have to do is reflash it with the old program but as the situation stands if I want to make an adjustment I have to contact Bob, either directly or indirectly and ask if he is will to do the flash. Then remove the ecm and mail it to him and a few days or a week later get it back and install it and test it. If it ends up not being what I want then I can start the process all over again. It's not about the money spent it's about being able to do things for yourself in your own time frame without being at the mercy of someone else.
Just to add to the above I would not want to have to start from scratch with an oem ecm and develop a tune. That would take way too much time and be way to dangerous. I have done that on dyno with the Kawasaki ecm with the guidance of a professional tuner. To attempt to do it any other way would have been disastrous. Tweaking a tune on the other hand is something a lot of us can/could do if we had the capability. Personally I'd want to do some data logging too!Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains!
heh @Ghost send me the price of the haltech and I,ll give you the ability to tune your own Polaris ecm lol Using the Polaris tune complete with all their working nannies!
Not just Bob, but CBM also has the ability to tune your ECM
the difference is CBM will SELL YOU THAT ABILITY TOO .For only $999.00 you send your ecm to cbm and they will key it too a chipped interface (ecm patch cord) and send you back your ecm which is now open through the chipped interfaced cord . they are keyed to each other only, (will not allow you to tune mutltiple ecms ), although you can also purchase the ability to send in multiple ecms via a license fee of $250.00 each ecm and tune them also using your interface cord. You simply patch your interface cord into your now open and keyed, ecm and your tuners laptop.Then using the Mefi Pro 1.1 Polaris Slingshot Tuning Software CBM provides tune away . this would give your local expert tuner @Ghost access to your tuning tables and charts in your ecm via his laptop and your interface cord and you could return to him multiple times from now to eternity and he can write and enter new tunes all day long or you can do this yourself.
$999.oo a little too stiff for you, get five of your buddies to split it, now only $200,00 each plus you each pay an individual $250,00 license fee to get your ecm to cbm , and returned keyed, open through that chipped interface cord, then your local expert GM tuner specialists can tune away ! AND OF COURSE you have the ability to save your Polaris tune on your laptop and return to it any day , Also unlike the Haltech , you lose nothing Polaris , The CBM system just allows your tuner uncoded and unscrambled access and he just adjusts the Polaris tables and charts and duty cycles etc to his expert tuning preference .
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Somewhere back in one of these post I read something about the Tial Blow off valve being open 1/8th of an inch at idle. I'm assuming this was with a supercharged setup???
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As far as I know the only thing we don't have with the Haltech is cruise control.The way it was explained to me is that the Nannies always start by default. Even though we have a indicator light on that says differently dash they are working.
On the bright side - I think we now have accurate fuel mileage which we did not have with the stock ECU after we changed injectors. Switching over to the Haltech did solve a lot of tuning issues we were having with my set up. I have driven pretty hard and as far as I cam tell there is no difference in the Nanny controls.I am going to say you don't have any nanny control anymore. Your running the same Haltech file as me.... and I dont have anything that even resembles a nanny kicking in.....
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I wish i could help as i have bought all the same stuff as you buts its not installed at the moment. I think @SaltyClownNY or @Casey_SS might be able to help?
@Soluga Do you still need help?
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@Soluga Do you still need help?
I have put my install on hold until I can line up my installer which might be in October. Riding season will be hit and miss at this time of year so if I'm missing some parts or have problems with the install i'm not losing much riding time. I hope your turbo is working out for you. Did you get the Haltech?
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I have put my install on hold until I can line up my installer which might be in October. Riding season will be hit and miss at this time of year so if I'm missing some parts or have problems with the install i'm not losing much riding time. I hope your turbo is working out for you. Did you get the Haltech?
No Haltech, Turbo is running fine I'm still at 2 power level, @SaltyClownNY has switched to 2x
I feel sorry that you are still not installed, nor do you really know if you have everything to complete the installation.
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Assuming you bought the kit from Hahn, the tune cost (except shipping to Bob at OBD Diagnostics) is included in the kit cost. IIRC, the Hahn turbo instructions request you email Hahn before shipping your ECU to Bob.You should also include your Hahn Order number when you ship to Bob. Here's a link to the shipping address for the ECU reflash - OBD Diagnostics.
Good Luck!
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Assuming you bought the kit from Hahn, the tune cost (except shipping to Bob at OBD Diagnostics) is included in the kit cost. IIRC, the Hahn turbo instructions request you email Hahn before shipping your ECU to Bob.You should also include your Hahn Order number when you ship to Bob. Here's a link to the shipping address for the ECU reflash - OBD Diagnostics.
Good Luck!
Per @Soluga he has the Portfuler so not tuned by Bob but rather uses a downloadable tune file created by and provided by Bill ....Hopefully someone here can forward the latest tune file to him ....
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Display MorePer @Soluga he has the Portfuler so not tuned by Bob but rather uses a downloadable tune file created by and provided by Bill ....
Hopefully someone here can forward the latest tune file to him ....
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I admit, I was too lazy to go search back thru for his earlier posts. Thanks for the correction.
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Finally my install begins!
Start on the Dyno for some terms of reference.
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Good luck and let us know how it goes
