Front end ignition on hot wire

  • I need a wire that is hot with ignition switch on. That won’t cause any problems when I tap into it for my neutrino fuse box. Neutrino has a regular battery connected hot wire and it also needs a smaller wire attached to a hot wire. It won’t operate unless it detects 12 volts through this Wire. They suggested the tail light but I don’t want to run a wire all the way back there.

  • When I did that on my 1st Sling, some expressed concern about that dinky little wire handling the entire load on the fuseblock. If you just have LEDs and such, maybe that's OK but anything with a higher draw, like horns or stereos increases the risk of a meltdown. With @ericastar76 's guidance, I have assembled the parts to run a 2 or 4 gauge wire from the battery, through a 100 amp fuse, to a splitter for future stereo equipment, then a 12 circuit (6 hot, 6 switched) fuseblock. It will handle whatever I throw at it.


    BTW, 'all the way back there' is about 7 feet on a vehicle with an open frame. Easy Peasy!

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • I need a wire that is hot with ignition switch on. That won’t cause any problems when I tap into it for my neutrino fuse box. Neutrino has a regular battery connected hot wire and it also needs a smaller wire attached to a hot wire. It won’t operate unless it detects 12 volts through this Wire. They suggested the tail light but I don’t want to run a wire all the way back there.

    Let's see, recently we have been asked to diagnose cupping tires and rear fender cracking, crinkled hood, brake light failure, now are we going to be helping diagnose electrical glitches again? :D


    Bill

  • When I did that on my 1st Sling, some expressed concern about that dinky little wire handling the entire load on the fuseblock. If you just have LEDs and such, maybe that's OK but anything with a higher draw, like horns or stereos increases the risk of a meltdown. With @ericastar76 's guidance, I have assembled the parts to run a 2 or 4 gauge wire from the battery, through a 100 amp fuse, to a splitter for future stereo equipment, then a 12 circuit (6 hot, 6 switched) fuseblock. It will handle whatever I throw at it.


    BTW, 'all the way back there' is about 7 feet on a vehicle with an open frame. Easy Peasy!

    I've used this on older Harley's that I had for the brake light. The switch they had for the front brake is just enough to handle the brake light. I had my rear turn signals wired as brake lights also, and that was enough to smoke the switch. The old switches they had would handle it, but the later replacement switches would not. This would work perfectly if you needed extra power and needed it switched off. Run a heavy wire to the battery with fuse in line, and then connect to this. Continue power out to amps or whatever you needed the power for. Just tie in the switched wire to the power outlet in the glove box. Cheap, switched, heavy power source. I always just went to the Auto parts store and got the Motorcraft version of them, but you get the drift. Mount wherever convenient.


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  • Let's see, recently we have been asked to diagnose cupping tires and rear fender cracking, crinkled hood, brake light failure, now are we going to be helping diagnose electrical glitches again? :D
    Bill

    No glitch. Just looking for a key on hot wire. Cigarette lighter in glove box will work.


    It’s not the main hot wire that is much thicker. This wire just lets the neutrino come to life when it sees 12 volts.

  • I need a wire that is hot with ignition switch on. That won’t cause any problems when I tap into it for my neutrino fuse box. Neutrino has a regular battery connected hot wire and it also needs a smaller wire attached to a hot wire. It won’t operate unless it detects 12 volts through this Wire. They suggested the tail light but I don’t want to run a wire all the way back there.

    I have been unsuccessful finding a hot ignition wire (other than the glove box 12 volt) for the same reason - my Neutrino. The glove box 12 volt seems to be causing problems and I need to find another ign wire. All the suggestions so far say radio, but I have an after market radio and the wires are all convoluted with speakers and two amps, its a mess. I wouldn't mind finding the tail light wire and running the Neutrino yellow ign wire back there, if only someone would tell me where it is.......................

  • I have been unsuccessful finding a hot ignition wire (other than the glove box 12 volt) for the same reason - my Neutrino. The glove box 12 volt seems to be causing problems and I need to find another ign wire. All the suggestions so far say radio, but I have an after market radio and the wires are all convoluted with speakers and two amps, its a mess. I wouldn't mind finding the tail light wire and running the Neutrino yellow ign wire back there, if only someone would tell me where it is.......................

    You don't have to run the Neutrino wire to the back. The tail light wire has to be accessible at the bottom of the fuse box. Find out which fuse cuts the power to the tail lights and tap into the fused side of that underneath the fuse box.


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

  • You don't have to run the Neutrino wire to the back. The tail light wire has to be accessible at the bottom of the fuse box. Find out which fuse cuts the power to the tail lights and tap into the fused side of that underneath the fuse box.


    Great idea!!!!!!!!!!