Nope. It doesn't have a "gasket". It uses an rubber type seal X 4 that can be reused many times unless it tears
Engine code 65551
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need to replace my knock sensor. Know have to remove intake manifold. Do I need any other parts, gaskets, anything else have to replace after removing when putting back on?
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Nothing else is needed but a little time. It's fairly straight forward to remove and no gaskets are required. The manifold uses 3 individual "o-ring" type seals that stay in the manifold and can be reused unless one tears or you see an obvious defect in it. Your local GM dealer should have one of them in stock or you could go to any of the auto parts stores and get an aftermarket set if needed.
Good luck and enjoy a cold one when you're done
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Do you have to disconnect many things to get the manifold off, anyone have instructions for what to remove?
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My service manager said I can drive it with no problems. They cleared the code a few weeks ago when I went in for service and it has reappeared just yesterday. I'll have the dealer clear the code in six months or so when I go back for service.
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It can be driven with an inoperative knock sensor as long as you're doing a couple of things. First and major importance is to make sure you run the proper fuel to reduce the risk of detonation. I would use 93 octane if that's an option in your area. Also, make sure your cooling system is functioning properly - proper coolant level, no blockage of air flow on the radiator (ie. bugs in the fins). And for anyone who is boosted (either turbo or s/c) make sure you don't use excessive boost until the knock sensor issue is corrected. If you're turbocharged, you might want to consider going down in boost levels to a less stiff spring in your waste gate
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Dealer had to order knock sensor. Still driving it. If it craps out I'll just get a new one. That is if I could find one.
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Dealer had to order knock sensor. Still driving it. If it craps out I'll just get a new one. That is if I could find one.
Word is they have lots in South Florida.
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Give your local GM dealers a call. They may well have one in stock. Under $30, and they use same part number as Polaris.
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OK I just got the knock sensor code myself. Thanks to the posts on this forum I was not worried about driving it home. Got it stripped down to the sensor and ordered the new part. Had to put it all back together to run a funeral run. Got 27 mpg on that tank, ran another tank out and got 29 mpg. Not sure what the knock sensor has to do with the fuel tables but I'm liking it. Went to one of my only four dealers (70 miles away) left in the state and was told five weeks for an appointment . So I started to make the appointment and was told I had to leave it for the five weeks and it would cost $85. Don't guess they are going to be my dealer of record. Service Manager said it was about five to ten minutes to turn off the check engine light, and he could not guaranty that it would stay off. So I'm thinking of being the Guinea Pig for the forum and run it till the check engine light burns out. Or I'll take the instrument cluster out and cut the wire or scratch the pc board to turn out the light.
Anybody know how to fool the emc into thinking the knock sensor is good?
LC
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Only got this one Slingshot...
I believe this code is one of the persistant types.
Got the code...
Replaced the sensor...
Code persisted til I saw the dealer for a recall...
And I had jumped through all the hoops mentioned with no luck.
Six months clear and code again after the Slingshot sat still for three weeks. But, still have the J-box recall open on my Sling.
Just don't think these are the knock sensors...
More likely shit harnesses and connectors.
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Got mine replaced several weeks ago. I have 75k on my sling. I drove it with the code for thousands of miles with no issues. You guys have good dealers mine charged me 127 with tax.
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LargeCar you could try these methods (screenshot from another thread):
I'll try them all but I'm not sure they are valid fixes if the author does not know how many ecu/ecm plugs there are. I should probably rub my tummy and stomp my right foot while doing these, just in case. I'll report back any good or bad results. Thanks for the post.
LC
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This may not have anything to do with the knock senor, mine came on while under warranty,. Had it replaced and was doing some reading in the manual. I have always run non ethanol fuel in my bikes and small engines. So I done this on the SS also, I do believe that was my problem, 89 octane non ethanol, now I run 93 octane but is is not non ethanol. But so far I have not had any issues as of yet, Mine is a 2017 bought in aug 2016 base
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I'll try them all but I'm not sure they are valid fixes if the author does not know how many ecu/ecm plugs there are. I should probably rub my tummy and stomp my right foot while doing these, just in case. I'll report back any good or bad results. Thanks for the post.
LC
Tripod knows more than 99% of the people on here and if he does not, he knows where to find it. You know back when I was in the "IC A School" uncles canoe club, it was not how much you learned in school, it was knowing where to look for the answers.
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FunCycle thanks for the vote of confidence. In this case, however, I think airoutlaw is probably correct. If it’s a hard code (“locked in”, as it were) it may be that the only way to reset it is with the dealer’s Digital Wrench software. If LargeCar attempts the above, then we’ll know one way or the other. The tricks didn’t work in airoutlaw ’s case. On the other thread, cycling the ignition did clear the OP’s code but it was a code of a completely different nature.
Trooper also brought up an interesting point about the type of gasoline used.
Will be following this one!
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Ok, did the five cycles of key on/off with full gauge sweep and no start. Nada. Then the five cycles of key on/off with full sweep and engine start/stop. Nada. On the road at 60mph went to knock sensor code reading on readout pushed in the readout cycle button in for about three minutes, just for grins and giggles. Nada. Starting to suspect it is a hard code. Have the three ecu connectors off and will plug them In tomorrow. Then I'll try the battery disconnect. I know we used to dump the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) in the trucks by a battery disconnect and touching the two cable together. I try that when I do the battery disconnect.
I wonder if Bob can take my tuned ECM and write the knock sensor out of the program all together. And of course clear the code.
Stay tuned
LC
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Found this on a Corvette forum.....
You can put a toggle switch on the ground wire for the knock sensor module. This is the only way to bypass the knock sensor without throwing a code or SES light. It is located on the passenger side under the hood near the passengers door. This will allow full ignition advance so be careful!
Not sure if that will work.
LC
