When the changed the bad sensors...did they change the brake fluid also?
they changed my brake fluid at that time. (No charge- warranty) BTW- did nothing for the issue....... Now, they are going to change the brake fluid sensors........... (also warranty) Still driving with no issues other than an annoying little red light
break light went on tonight with no cruise control - glad it happened before the trip to MV
break light went on tonight with no cruise control - glad it happened before the trip to MV
That is the sensor... Restart probably be 'OK' for a while and than go out again.
Good thing trip planned to Lake Villa.
That is the sensor... Restart probably be 'OK' for a while and than go out again. Good thing trip planned to Lake Villa.
That's what I told Karianne - better no CC to Nielsens than no CC to MV ..... need to test out that warranty again anyway
Alright, we’re back on this topic again...
Has anyone had sensor issues after using a different brake fluid....not Polaris but something else?
I see they have synthetic brake fluid now....any thoughts?
Wilwood EXP600 PLUS Super High-Temp Brake Fluid EXP 600 Plus is a highly refined blend developed for extreme performance under the high heat and extreme pressure of professional motorsports.EXP 600 Plus has tested to 626 degrees Fahrenheit with a wet boiling point of 417 degrees Fahrenheit. These numbers far exceed any DOT or SAE specifications. It is true that racing fluids need to have high boiling points. It is also true that fluids need to have low moisture affinity to slow the natural absorption rate of water vapor. But the true test of any fluid is how well it resists aeration and compressibility after it has been heated and pressure cycled a few hundred times. The real test is at the track. EXP has been proven to maintain firm pedal feel and quick response, long after others have failed. Typical Boiling Points. New Dry 330°C Wet E.R. 213°C
are you getting higher numbers?
"By FMVSS116 standards, DOT 4 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 446°F and a minimum wet boiling point of 311°F. DOT 4 is the grade applicable to most race engineered brake fluid in the world today, especially with regard to viscosity limit."
I see they have synthetic brake fluid now....any thoughts?
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All brake fluid is synthetic ......
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I’m just asking if we should be using a different brake fluid? Than the Polaris brand...
Go to the store and buy little smiley stickers they block them annoying little lights just fine
I wear earplugs so I don't have to listen to the belt wine when its dirty..................works like a charm
Go to the store and buy little smiley stickers they block them annoying little lights just fine
I wear earplugs so I don't have to listen to the belt wine when its dirty..................works like a charm
I just turn up the OEM stereo to a setting of 10 and go down the road....
The Service Advisory clearly states "There is no change in brake function as a result of this failure." The only impact most of us have ever noticed is loss of cruise control functionality, so what is the exact purpose of these sensors?
It’s a brake pressure sensor....so it’s to let you know if you lost brake pressure....from either a leak or low fluid level. It’s a red warning light because it’s a critical failure issue requiring immediate attention. It disables the cruise control so you don’t drive it out of control....basically because the gas pedal is depressed without driver input.
It’s a brake pressure sensor....so it’s to let you know if you lost brake pressure....from either a leak or low fluid level. It’s a red warning light because it’s a critical failure issue requiring immediate attention. It disables the cruise control so you don’t drive it out of control....basically because the gas pedal is depressed without driver input.
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No... it is a pressure activated switch ... not a pressure sensor ....if you loose braking pressure it would never activate or know the difference so would not throw a light .... the warning light activates when it is stuck on ....
It simply provides a signal to the ECU that the brakes have been applied to de-activate the cruise control .... nothing more ....
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I’m going with Orangeman’s thought, our light has been on now for about 5,000 miles, yes it goes out when you shut it off but it will come back on,,we currently have 9400 miles on the sling and have had no braking issue what so ever,,,, at some point I will do the 140 mile round trip to the dealer and back to get it fixed..!! Along with the other recall crap..... as the dealer told me when I bought ours,, drive it like you stole it and that was a quote from the owner of the dealership..... 
You really should know the system before blindly posting an excerpt from the manual ...
Go out and look at your MC ..then report back when you figure out there is a fluid level sensor on top of each chamber ... these and the mechanical brake switch that activates the brake lights have absolutely nothing to so with the pressure switches ..... different systems completely ...
But of course this was all explained a long time ago in a rather catastrophic thread ..... 
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I posted that to show the reasons the failure light comes on...
It comes on when those pressure sensors detect loss of pressure.....
Fluid level sensors on the top and pressure sensors on the feed lines..
can you lose pressure if you have low or no fluid?
