Silicone Coolant Hose Kit Installation Procedure

    Someone asked why I was changing the Hoses out on a brand new Slingshot. The main reason right off the bat is to add color to the engine area. They come in an assortment of color to match you Slingshot in most cases. A lot of folks, dress up the engine area with covers and all types of accessories to make under the hood a show place. I did this installation for Twist Dynamics and they only had Black for my installation, normally, White would have been my choice of color. The hoses are high temperature resistant and very thick. should last almost forever without failure. Here is my Installation Video for the Silicone Coolant Hose Kit. Very important to purge the air from the system when draining and refilling the coolant. I show the procedure. It does take a few trips of driving and the level of coolant will need to be added, so keep close watch. Main thing is to remove as much air as possible during the filling process. The video will show you how. Removing the old clamps was the biggest issue, but twisting and rocking will get it done. This may help some with understanding something about the coolant system if not installing the hose kit. Show Time! Three parts to get it all done.


    My Playlist from Youtube Channel


    Silcone Coolant Hose Installation - YouTube

    @samowens44, your projects would take half as long if you didn't shoot video, too. But, then there would be a lot of folks milling around wishing they would bump into someone who would do the install for them.


    And then there are other folks, such as myself, that want to see the total process without having to climb over, under, in and through, to figure it out.


    Fabrication of a new mod or a one off is the only place we should be doing the figuring, not on a pre-fabbed mod.


    You keep up the good work and take as long as you like to crank out those videos.


    I may not require every video, but I got you in the book on where to look.... :thumbsup:

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Folks, I gear my video mostly for the guys and ladies that do not have a lot of experience and try to show them like they are with me and help with detail. Airoutlaw is correct on shorter time without having to do video. Thanks for your comment.

    @samowens44 I have a question, it seems to me that your process of refilling and burping the system was a tad over complicated.


    I was taught to fill the radiator/overflow tank then crank the engine and finish topping it off as it burps the air, every single coolant flush I have done(seen done) in the last 20 years has been done that way and (knock on wood) have never had any issues.


    So I just fail to see any reasoning behind making a 30 seconds refill/burp process take any longer than it needs to be.


    So my question is have I been lucky doing it my way ?

    Is not that I am mean, I just don't sugarcoat what I say.

    Neosolidus, I have the Shop Manual and the Polaris way of refilling the system is to use a commercial available cooling system vacuum filler to ensure no air gets trapped in the cooling system during refilling. I went through detail to make sure people make sure the air is out of the system, also monitor the level for drops as air is purged while driving. It is harmful to the engine to have big amounts of air in the system. I found the procedure I used to purge the air online. The fact they recommend a vacuum filler means it is important to get the air out. Air will allow too much heat. This is only with this engine, I have done it your way all my life also. Thanks for your comments, it is good to have discussions.

    Just chiming in.... hate to use the term engineers.... but, basically they are tasked nowadays with making everything fit within the space and weight defined. With that, out goes the common sense requirements such as oil drain plugs, dip sticks, lights that will require replacement.... you get the picture.


    Which brings us to coolant systems. Forgotten is the fact that water seeks its own level... Engine water coolant jackets that sit higher than the water fill port will maintain an air dome pocket..


    And in some cases, water returned to the radiator from any other location than top of the water jacket will trap air in the dome above. Hence many of the newer vehicles have air bleed ports at the highest points...


    Hence, failure to follow proper coolant fluid replacement for a specified vehicle will result in seized pistons due to water pump cavitation.


    Not saying the Slingshot falls into this group because I really haven't had to dive down into that yet.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Quote from Shatneyman

    my white hose kit is turning yellow, bought it last year, not sure if I can get the white color back :/

    @Shatneyman... found this, tells how to clean silicon hoses and what not to use... didn't find anything stating yellowing.
    From makers of silicon hoses...


    Link to How To Clean Silicone Hoses - Flex Technologies Incorporated

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Using the technique of putting air pressure on the overflow hose forces coolant into the upper parts of the engine and purging the air through the spout you watch for fluid to come out. This is very important to get this air out whatever method you choose to do. This worked great for me and I still saw the reservoir level got down each of my next 3 or 4 rides. Not too much, but did have to add fluid a few times. Then level remains the same now when cold. That is the time for a level check and also making sure there are no leaks at your connections. This is a pressurized system and you can not have leaks. I think I am the only one that has produced a video on changing the Fluid on a Polaris Slingshot. I got great results with no leaks and I have a new set of High Temp Silicone Hoses that will last for as long as I have the vehicle. Good Luck on your Installation or when you need to work on the coolant system.

    I'll share my little bit of experience with you here. With small capacity cooling systems like snow machines and ATVs, a little bit of air is a big deal. Once you overheat, and you're on the trail, it can be difficult to recover and the engine can continue to overheat after you have filled it up to capacity with the available streamwater and water bottles. So try this. Elevate the front end slightly by driving it onto a small bank/log/dead body. After filling the reservoir to capacity, start it up and run it up to warm temperature (thermostat open). You may see it burp down and you can add another cup or two. This can be the difference you need. You have to find the high point for your machine to get the air out and the fluid in. (Canadians will know this - I learned it from them).

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    Quote from SlingLow

    I'll share my little bit of experience with you here. With small capacity cooling systems like snow machines and ATVs, a little bit of air is a big deal. Once you overheat, and you're on the trail, it can be difficult to recover and the engine can continue to overheat after you have filled it up to capacity with the available streamwater and water bottles. So try this. Elevate the front end slightly by driving it onto a small bank/log/dead body. After filling the reservoir to capacity, start it up and run it up to warm temperature (thermostat open). You may see it burp down and you can add another cup or two. This can be the difference you need. You have to find the high point for your machine to get the air out and the fluid in. (Canadians will know this - I learned it from them).

    This makes sense because it places the water jacket of the engine below the fill point. But, if the engine has bleed ports, you still need to do the bleed check. Just FYI for all of us...

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS: