Slingshot tie down in enclosed trailer

    Quote from SlingByron

    It is an 8.5x20'. Chavey2 how long is your trailer? I was trying to not have full runs of Etrack but it will be recessed and welded to the frame if I have the manufacturer do it.

    Mine is an 8.5x24, but I'm also turning mine into a full camping toy hauler too. (Kitchen and bathroom in front, beds along the wheel wells that fold up.) I only put the 5' pieces of e-track in and the rear of the SS is still a couple feet in front of the rear door. Basically, if you keep the wheels of the SS on both sides of the wheels of the trailer, you're going to be good.

    Because I pull my trailer behind my fifth wheel RV I made it so I can place the sling in front first or rear first. Front first when I tow behind the truck and tail first when towed behind the RV to keep tongue weight within the limits of each hitch. It is real easy to tie down when backed in, a little harder when nose in, especially the left front tire. But if a gimpy old fart like me can do it I'm sure you can as well.



    LC

    I am adding the 3rd set of Etrack, moved the door to the curbside and adjusted the D-ring placement slightly. Thank you for the suggestions and information. I will post again when I get the next drawing back, but feel free to let me know any other suggestions you might have. I want to learn and apply other's knowledge. I do like the look of the straps and Xtrack, I had never even heard of it before.

    Just a small town farmboy, handy with my hands and originally trained as a automotive technician. Lives in Swayzee Indiana.

    Is the floor in the trailer 3/4 inch plywood? I personally would take the trailer home and install recessed D-rings in the floor where you want them. Search on US Cargo and look at the straps that go over the tires. You will need 3 D-rings for each tire or 9 total. I prefer this type of tie down for the Slingshot. You can also purchase the recessed Rings on Amazon.

    Alright got my revision set of drawings back and I believe I am good to go, Anyone have any thoughts?

    SlingByron I think if I may recommend that you move d-rings about 30 inches forward and check to see if a three foot door would save you a little money. I have a three foot door and plenty big enough, just my opinion. In moving d-rings forward you can use better if you were to haul a car. You might want to move front etrac forward also, to make your tie downs easier to get to. Again these are my opinion . What kind of tie downs did you get for tires? Good luck with.


    JUST SAYIN

    Keep Three Wheels Down

    I would suggest that you run the "outside" e-trac the entire length of the trailer on both sides, you never know what you might haul in the trailer. You have to remember depending on how you intend to tie down the SS you will need room for 3 point ratchet strap if you use over the wheel tie downs. It will also make it more appealing to a potential buyer when you eventually sell it. Would also double up on the rear brake light/turn signal on the rear (2 on each side), you cannot have too many lights on the rear, if there is room after doing that I would highly recommend reverse/back-up lights (1 on each side). It will be much cheaper if you do these now at the factory than later. I would also consider doing away with the roof vent framing unless you plan on adding AC. The roof vent ALWAYS leaks, cracks, etc, and the framing leaves a weak spot in the roof. The standard type of roof vent does very little in the way of relieving the heat even when going down the highway with it open. BTW, if you don't care, who is the MFG?

    It is made by Stealth trailers, technically it is their cargo trailer called the Titan. There is no roof vent it is just framed for one, so it will still have a 1-piece roof. The side door is the standard size for them. I will probably end up keeping this trailer until it dies a long, slow, and horrible death (20+ years). I am not allowed to get another one so this one needs to last. I will probably add a battery and a winch because if it dies I won't be able to push it in by myself. Heck I might be lucky if the wife will be able to come and get me as she doesn't drive in heavy traffic.

    Just a small town farmboy, handy with my hands and originally trained as a automotive technician. Lives in Swayzee Indiana.

    You may want to watch these informational videos.... all the parts..especially about how to load the trailer.


    https://www.uhaul.com/Videos/T…s/Safe-Trailering-Part-1/


    I am surprised that in these videos nothing is mentioned about matching the trailer tongue height with the ball height. You want them to be level with each other so the trailer tongue is not aiming up or down.

    I also put a couple of coats of a mobile home or metal roof coating on mine. Helps on heat and noise, doesn’t sound so tinny inside.

    This is what I used. Hope this helps!


    JUST SAYIN

    Keep Three Wheels Down

    I’ve used that to seal and recoat the roof on a pole barn. In fact I will probably need some as I just found out there is a leak in my pole barn.

    Just a small town farmboy, handy with my hands and originally trained as a automotive technician. Lives in Swayzee Indiana.