Hahn SST TurboSystem Group Buy

  • Does anyone know of a DIY out there for removing the oil pan? I want to ma!e sure I don't snap anything off lifting it up lol

    Looking for the file(s) now. Will post as soon as I find them.


    Found them. The Alpha turbo was designed to use the oil pan return ad has the instructions for removing and reinstalling the oil pan in Step 5. The Blitzkrieg Instructions (pages 5 - 9) are based on his experience installing the Alpha turbo and are a little more detailed. When installing my Hahn kit, I used Blitzkrieg's tips for removing and reinstalling the oil pan. I took his idea for using a 1" oak dowel to use as a ram to break the seal formed by the oil pan RTV gasket between the block and oil pan. The tip of the dowel starte to fracture from being hammered, so I used a screw-on round pipe clamp to reinforce the tip of the dowel. When the RTV lets loose it can sound like you broke something. Mine sounded similar to a rifle being fired and I worried I'd broken something!
    I also loosened the screws securing the dash top in place and placed some 3/4" wood spacers to help provide a little more clearance.
    Be careful and keep your fingers from touching the RTV when replacing the oil pan. Also, don't let the RTV touch against anything until you are installing the oil pan bolts. As Blitzkrieg, says, don't rush it and let the RTV seal up for 24 hours after initially hand-tightening the oil pan bolts before final tightening and torquing the oil pan bolts. While I was trying to reinstall the oil pan, I ended up touching the RTV and ended up having to re-pull the pan, reclean the mating surfaces (both block and oil pan) and then reinstalling the pan because of an oil leak. I used plastic razor blades and brake cleaner to clean off the old sealant. You can also use gasket remover. Either way, make sure the mating surfaces are as clean and dry as possible to get a good seal.
    Good Luck!

  • Looking for the file(s) now. Will post as soon as I find them.
    Found them. The Alpha turbo was designed to use the oil pan return ad has the instructions for removing and reinstalling the oil pan in Step 5. The Blitzkrieg Instructions (pages 5 - 9) are based on his experience installing the Alpha turbo and are a little more detailed. When installing my Hahn kit, I used Blitzkrieg's tips for removing and reinstalling the oil pan. I took his idea for using a 1" oak dowel to use as a ram to break the seal formed by the oil pan RTV gasket between the block and oil pan. The tip of the dowel starte to fracture from being hammered, so I used a screw-on round pipe clamp to reinforce the tip of the dowel. When the RTV lets loose it can sound like you broke something. Mine sounded similar to a rifle being fired and I worried I'd broken something!
    I also loosened the screws securing the dash top in place and placed some 3/4" wood spacers to help provide a little more clearance.
    Be careful and keep your fingers from touching the RTV when replacing the oil pan. Also, don't let the RTV touch against anything until you are installing the oil pan bolts. As Blitzkrieg, says, don't rush it and let the RTV seal up for 24 hours after initially hand-tightening the oil pan bolts before final tightening and torquing the oil pan bolts. While I was trying to reinstall the oil pan, I ended up touching the RTV and ended up having to re-pull the pan, reclean the mating surfaces (both block and oil pan) and then reinstalling the pan because of an oil leak. I used plastic razor blades and brake cleaner to clean off the old sealant. You can also use gasket remover. Either way, make sure the mating surfaces are as clean and dry as possible to get a good seal.
    Good Luck!

    you are awesome! Thanks! :00000436::00000441:

  • Some people use brushes to remove the old RTV, but you need to be careful on aluminum blocks and pans. Brass is best. Steel brushes can cause damage. I wouldn't recommend rotating brushes for the same reason, unless they were plastic and then soft. If you're concerned about using a spray gasket remover or brake cleaner, spray it into a small cat food container or other shallow can and use some disposable brushes to paint it on where you need it. RTV removal is NOT a fast process, at least for me. Just take your time and get everything as clean as possible.
    Also, a hockey puck placed on top of your floorjack's lift point will help protect whatever your lifting against.

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • Ok, Here is the easy way to lift it....


    1. Remove the two screws that hold the coolant burp bottle. Pull the burp bottle forward where it can raise up when you jack the engine up.


    2. Remove the two back transmission bracket nuts. They are 15mm


    3, Remove the nuts from the bottom of the two engine mounts. They are 15mm. And remove the two 15mm nuts from the top of the engine mounts, The way it can really slide around a bit and nothing is binding.


    Since you have the turbo installed you will need to add the next steps.


    4. Remove the pipe from the turbo that goes to the intercooler.


    5. Remove the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the intake.


    6. Remove the exhaust from the output side of the turbo. Unless you know the exhaust you have can flex all the way up with the engine. If its a Hahn side exhaust you usually dont have to remove it... It isn't attached anywhere except the engine and it all comes up together.


    7. Check around the engine to make sure I haven't missed anything.... Put a floor jack under the bell housing of the transmission. Use a block of wood to keep from hurting the transmission


    Start jacking the bell housing up and make sure you keep an eye on everything that is moving. Let the burp bottle come on up with the engine. Once you get it jacked all the way as high as you can you should be able to remove the oil pan. you will to take out the big 18mm bolts and all the pan bolts....


    8. Once the pan is off. Now do whatever work you need to on the oil return hole that your having to drill out.... Clean all the shavings with brake cleaner.


    9. Now take the baffle out of the oil pan and clean it up. Put the bolts back in with your choice of Locktite. I use red. Remove all the gasket material from the block and from the pan. I use a straight razor and those blue GOJO rags. When your done clean both surfaces with rubbing alcohol and let it dry. Then apply the GRAY Pematex gasket maker to the pan. Remember just a thin film. And make sure you go around the oil pump passage with goo.


    Im sure i may have left out something. But just watch everything and jack it up slowly .

  • I would also take the 2 bolts off of the oil pickup tube in the pan and hammer it straight out with a hammer and flat head (wiggling helps too) to check the screen. It is simply just a press in fit with the 2 bolts removed. You will see what I mean when you have the baffle out. You are already going this far, mide as well make sure that you have done your due diligence in trying to locate all of the metal shavings.

    The pickup tube screen is probably the #1 spot on where shavings will be if they didn't get them all out of your pan when flushing it.

    Obviously, you will want to ditch the oil filter too just to be safe. New one is cheap insurance.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • I must say that I am very impressed with the patients that has been shown by most of the participants in this group buy. Bill is very lucky to have been blessed with your level of tolerance and kindness.


    If I had made the leap and participated in this buy I probably would have gotten myself permanently banned from the forum by now for what I would have been posting in this thread.


    You are all good and kind people and I am glad I have been able to be a witness to your kindness and self control


    :thumbsup:

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL
    JRI GT coil overs, DDM short shifter
    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar & DDM mounts

    MeanSling Sport Top & Other Misc Goodies

  • Let's hope it arrives and is complete. @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, it really is sad how long this took to complete and what really makes me mad is the fact that you didn't live up to your word with these folks. There was a pretty big pile of cash that went your way and you pulled you head into your shell and went turtle on them. Never mind the fact that you didn't live up to your word on what you would do if things were late. I think it's pretty fair to say that you have left a really bad taste in a lot of folks mouths and it will be really hard for you to sell anything to anyone who watched this whole thing play out. No I didn't have a dog in the fight, and I'm glad I didn't make this choice, but one is for sure,


    NO HAHN FOR ME!!!

    My paint is fast, TURBO Silver!

  • I would have flown to florida ...... this delay/wait time has reached catastrophic level of bullshit.


    Why can't all vendors be like Welter Performance where you order saturday afternnon, they ship monday and you receive your mods on wednesday....

    Proud owner of an Ultra Super Duper Faster than Light Red.

  • I must also add that because of what I have seen here I no longer consider Hahn Racecraft as an option for any future purchases. Some delays on a group buy might have been acceptable considering it was a special deal, but what has happened here is not even close to acceptable and it seems from what I have read that even people who were not a part of the buy have had crazy wait times to get what they order.


    just not acceptable - if its on a site for me to order I expect it to ship within a day of when the order was placed unless it specifically states there will be a delay and if that is the case I expect to say exactly what that delay will be.

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL
    JRI GT coil overs, DDM short shifter
    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar & DDM mounts

    MeanSling Sport Top & Other Misc Goodies

  • Ugg i didn't get all my stuff. I'm missing the tail pipes, tips and baffles from what i can tell. I've sent a text today to Bill and he has replied. The stuff i do have looks real nice, even the wife likes it (Well the color at least) I just need it all to be able to install it of course.

  • Ugg i didn't get all my stuff. I'm missing the tail pipes, tips and baffles from what i can tell. I've sent a text today to Bill and he has replied. The stuff i do have looks real nice, even the wife likes it (Well the color at least) I just need it all to be able to install it of course.

    I'm still rooting for you @Soluga


    Ssreaper

    :BLACKSS: 2016 SL LE BLACK PEARL :HEADERSS::COLDAIRSS::COILOVERSS: